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-   -   Outside joist removed for door (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/outside-joist-removed-door-71285/)

Cyclone 05-15-2010 03:21 PM

Outside joist removed for door
 
Hi,
I have a contractor yesterday to install an outside door in the basement. Given that the basement is lower than door height (74", door is 80"), the contractor cut a section of the outside joist, one 6x6 I believe, which is right on top of the opening inthe concrete foundation. He put a couple of 12x2 presure treated in one side and one in the other. My question, should he have put something to compensate the lost section of the joist? Have in mind this is the outside joist that suport the exterior walls.
Thanks,
Damian

jogr 05-15-2010 10:09 PM

Can you post pictures? I'm not understanding what was removed and where the 2x12s went. I also don't understand how the door is going to open if it is higher than the basement ceiling joists.

Cyclone 05-16-2010 10:09 AM

Some pictures of the door and the trim cut
 
3 Attachment(s)
Here are some pictures from the door and rim joist cut. Notice that is an outswing door.

jogr 05-16-2010 01:18 PM

An outswing door makes sense there but that looks to me like a regular inswing door mounted backwards. The threshold slopes to the inside and the brickmold is on the inside - both those seem wrong.

As far as the structural issues it looks like your floor joists run parallel to that wall. If so the only concern is whether the wall above the door is adequately supported (and whatever load is supported by the wall). I can't really see what's going on above the door. Someone needs to check what the load above the door is and make sure the appropriate size header is above the door.

Cyclone 05-16-2010 01:39 PM

I am not sure if the brickmold and slopes come with the door or the guys that did the job put them. But the door is outswing, that for sure. Notice that the window open from the inside. I am sure that there is no header, I will have to put one. You are right about that the joist are paralel, but still I would put a header same size as the joist and maybe I will duplicate the next joist, just in case. What do you think?

Gary in WA 05-16-2010 05:59 PM

As jogr stated correctly, the threshold and shake mold are on the wrong side of the door (belong outside). Loose fill fiberglass or batt insulation has no place with an exterior door installation. It doesn't stop air movement like spray foam does but the mice love it....

Far as the header, what load is above? General load bearing table: http://www.burlington.org/Building08/Spans.pdf

Be safe, Gary

Cyclone 05-16-2010 07:06 PM

The house is 24' wide aprox and, if I understood well, the joist supports two center bearing floors. Both floors have the joist paralel to this wall. I do not know the roof. The lenght of these joists is about 15 -17 feet. I am not sure the rim joist, but I will know soon when I remove the inside wood sheets of the walls to put insulation. By the way, there is foam behind the fiberglass, so the mice should enter from somewhere to "enjoy" this fiberglass. Regarding the door, it is done by a local company (Newfoundland), maybe they have this type of design for outswing doors, I don't know.

Gary in WA 05-16-2010 10:09 PM

If a point load such as the window or door jamb framing bear above the door, add a 2x10 to make you feel safer. Good you have spray foam for a thermal/capillary break at the door/framing. All out-swing doors slope the sill away from the interior: http://books.google.com/books?id=E5S...20beam&f=false

Very surprised to see it your way (sloping interior). Check the exterior hinges for ease of removal. They should have an allen screw to prevent hinge pin removal when the door is closed. If not, try taping the hinge pin up from the bottom with a center or pin punch. If it moves, call them back to install new hinges and a threshold.

Be safe, Gary


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