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-   -   Outdoor wood storage cabinet/shed (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/outdoor-wood-storage-cabinet-shed-151841/)

miamicuse 07-28-2012 06:53 PM

Outdoor wood storage cabinet/shed
 
I would like to build a wood cabinet outdoors to hold a weed eater, blower, shovels, rake, garden tools, a bunch of hurricane panels, some shelves up top for pots, and other assorted items.

Basically serving the same purpose as something like this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-...428501/8206253

Although I would like a vertical partition for taller things.

The footprint is a concrete slab of 48" x 48" x 6" Deep

The cabinet will up up against an existing exterior concrete block wall, so I can drill and attach PT lumber to it. It will be under the overhang portion of the roof, so it cannot go higher then 7 feet.

I am trying to figure out how to build it. Do I just build it like how you would build an interior wall, basically have a bottom plate, a top plate, with studs spaced say 16" apart all using PT 2x lumber. That makes the back, left and right sides of the cabinet, and attach the back side to the concrete block wall. Use PT plywood to finish the exterior left and right side, as well as make front doors out of it. Something along that line?

Or there are existing plans for a better job?

7echo 07-28-2012 08:55 PM

Something like this, but using the existing wall for the back?


http://www.hometips.com/diy-how-to/l...hed-build.html

miamicuse 07-28-2012 08:58 PM

Yes, this is pretty close.

Now I don't need a roof, as it will be under the eave so I am just going to make a flat top and cover with a piece of marine grade plywood.

mae-ling 07-28-2012 11:11 PM

Slope the top, if you get any rain at all.
Also if you get any rain at all put a floor in it so rain does not come in.
Seal your bottom plate to the concrete.

joecaption 07-28-2012 11:11 PM

Never have the roof be perfectly flat, and just plywood of any type will delaminate and rot over time. Far better to shingle it and build it with at least a 4-12 pitch.
No one has ever built a storage area to big, if you going to do it make it bigger then you think it needs to be. Far cheaper to have more then enough room then to have to add on once it's done.

miamicuse 07-28-2012 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mae-ling (Post 976520)
Slope the top, if you get any rain at all.
Also if you get any rain at all put a floor in it so rain does not come in.
Seal your bottom plate to the concrete.

My roof overhangs out a good 5 feet, plus fascia and gutter. This shed will be under the roof overhang and be inside of it by a good 1.5 feet. I will build it to almost 6" below the T1-11 soffit. I don't think any rain will hit the top.

However, there might be an argument made to just build it all the way to the soffit and use that as the "ceiling".

mae-ling 07-28-2012 11:45 PM

If you'd only be 6" below that may not be a bad idea.

epson 07-29-2012 12:02 AM

Build it all the way up because a 6 gap will make a nice nesting spot, then you will have another problem.:whistling2:

hand drive 07-29-2012 09:33 AM

Build all the way to the overhang and that covers your roof situation. Build it just like standard walls, with top plate, treated bottom plate and a header for the door. I would recommend using the hardie t1- 11 for the siding as it will withstand weather for an increased time period and not de laminate like plywood. For the walls build the wall framing out to the edge of the slab and hang the siding an inch down below the bottom of the bottom plate down onto the slab to keep water from traveling back onto the slab. Use pressure treated lumber against the concrete block wall. You can also make a door out of the hardie t1-11, a 1x4 or 2x4 X frame will help to strengthen the door and keep it solid with no warping. A cheap skil saw blade will cut the hardie or get one of the blades they make for hardie, good luck!

miamicuse 07-29-2012 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epson (Post 976563)
Build it all the way up because a 6 gap will make a nice nesting spot, then you will have another problem.:whistling2:

You are right, never know we have lots of snakes here that might like to go up there.

miamicuse 07-29-2012 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 976714)
Build all the way to the overhang and that covers your roof situation. Build it just like standard walls, with top plate, treated bottom plate and a header for the door. I would recommend using the hardie t1- 11 for the siding as it will withstand weather for an increased time period and not de laminate like plywood. For the walls build the wall framing out to the edge of the slab and hang the siding an inch down below the bottom of the bottom plate down onto the slab to keep water from traveling back onto the slab. Use pressure treated lumber against the concrete block wall. You can also make a door out of the hardie t1-11, a 1x4 or 2x4 X frame will help to strengthen the door and keep it solid with no warping. A cheap skil saw blade will cut the hardie or get one of the blades they make for hardie, good luck!

Sounds good. Thanks!

miamicuse 07-30-2012 10:02 PM

A slight complication. The eave is not level but slopes downwards, so the top plate of the side walls will need to be inclined?

I would rather not have to miter each individual stud to fit.

May be I can still make the walls straight and level, but cut the T1-11 siding on a slope to reach the eave?

hand drive 07-30-2012 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miamicuse (Post 978000)
A slight complication. The eave is not level but slopes downwards, so the top plate of the side walls will need to be inclined?

I would rather not have to miter each individual stud to fit.

May be I can still make the walls straight and level, but cut the T1-11 siding on a slope to reach the eave?

Once you find the angle of the eave ( roof pitch ) it is a piece of cake and just like framing a square non bevel cut..

weberus3 08-01-2012 03:38 PM

Not sure if you finally found what you are looking for but here is another on to check out, comes with a video. Its one I'm looking at doing on the back of my pool house. I simply went to google, typed in "lean to shed family handyman". There is a quickcrete ad first then the video its 23 minutes long but put together really well. Good luck and update some pictures with your progress. :thumbsup:

Annabelle McLar 08-05-2012 01:34 AM

Much appreciated !


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