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Old 12-02-2010, 11:33 AM   #1
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orientation of stucco lath


Does it matter which way the lath is put on? The way it is right now on our new construction, when I run my hand down, it is 'smoother' than when I reverse and run up it......it seems the other way the 'catches' more should be up to hold the stucco on....... I have not been able to find any references to That aspect yet.....(I have a few Other questions too, but I'll start here!) Thanks in advance for advice/expertise.....

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Old 12-02-2010, 12:00 PM   #2
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orientation of stucco lath


Cups up: http://www.mnlath-plaster.com/librar...Update2009.pdf

Gary

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Old 12-02-2010, 12:01 PM   #3
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orientation of stucco lath


It should be put on so that when your hand runs on it, it is smooth up, difficult down.

But also, if a sheet or three is put on upside down, don't come unglued. It will be fine, the key is making sure that the stucco is mooshed in there
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:38 PM   #4
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orientation of stucco lath


Thanks for quick reply! I'd say it's the other way around.... only a couple-three of the sheets (on 3000sqft, two-story home) done the right way! But if that can be addressed by being Extra careful to cram the stucco into it, I'll make sure as best I can that that is done!

Also there are no expansion joints....builder said not necessary and he doesn't like the 'look'....(I agreed about that)..and that there will be cracks regardless. . . .Now I'm questioning....how necessary Are they? We live in central TX.

I Am basically coming unglued.....having read now about All aspects of how this job should be done, I think we're 'off' on most all of the important points! Maybe ya'll can bear with me through my concerns one at a time....don't want to overwhelm the post!.

So I feel the lath is attached securely...they used the Big staples (1 1/2-2"?) and prbly hit the studs well enough...problem is there are also a Lot of penetrations into the OSB.....as I understand it creating pathways for water when we get the random week or two of driving rains......

This 'project' was begun by a builder we had to get rid of for so many reasons......a better one that we felt quite confident in came in to 'repair' the other guys work......but it's turning out they each have areas of falling short!
First one put 2 layers of black paper (at Our insistence) over all, but hadn't done the North (big) wall.....new guy said one layer was enough if overlapped more...(if they actually Did that!) But I see there are a few small areas (around some windows mainly) where I actually see the OSB with No paper. We have been through so much going wrong in this construction and now running out of $ to finish ......I just want to be Confident that in the end it's not all going to end up in mold and rot! THANKS for advice/listening!
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:18 PM   #5
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orientation of stucco lath


2 layers always. It doesn't matter which the lath way it is on, but for rookies it is easier to apply stucco with cups up.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:19 PM   #6
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orientation of stucco lath


Good you have two layers. Read all this, after downloading (just above the picture), http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ged+wall+syste
then I'll tell you about that.
Gary
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:38 PM   #7
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orientation of stucco lath


Thanks......it's a great link.....so much helpful/easy to comprehend information.
Unfortunately, it also reinforces my sense of dooom that we are past the point where we can go back and implement most of the strategies necessary to prevent water problelms.. I've been making phone calls though......need to find someone Else to come out and assess the situation, and take it from there....... this is beyond what I can expect you here to deal with! I will have to make my signature something like : I'm learning so much.. in the hardest way!
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:58 PM   #8
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orientation of stucco lath


Cover the OSB with paper or you will have problems. OSB is much less forgiving than plywood as it is very slow drying and stores the water inside longer to rot. RH-25% osb-1.25 ply-0.89 RH-75% osb-6 ply-14 Rh-95 osb-24 ply- 49 With plywood, the wetter it is the more permeable (open) to water. You want the high numbers with the high humidity. http://alcor.concordia.ca/~raojw/crd...say000129.html

I hope they gapped it at install: http://www.ewpa.com/Archive/2006/aug/Paper_266.pdf
Now is the time to get a knowledgeable person in to fix it before covering and have way more problems down the road....

Gary
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:58 PM   #9
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orientation of stucco lath


Yea. . . first guys started out not gapping.....I told them it was supposed to have the gap, and then they did it 'most of the time'. Where it was tight the new workers were supposed to trim a gap in, but pretty sure that didn't happen either.....and they said once the stucco is on it's not an issue.... Is it IF moisture gets to it, or simply temperature fluctuations that would cause the expanding/contracting after the stucco is on?
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:47 PM   #10
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orientation of stucco lath


This required gap is stamped on each and every sheet by the manufacturer for the warranty if ever any problems. Why anyone would use OSB in a heating climate is beyond me, I put it right next to low and medium density fiberglass insulation, blow-in and batts. http://www.eima.com/pdfs/The%20Perfe...r%20Stucco.pdf

Don’t spray foam inside over OSB and don’t use rigid foam outside, without an air gap: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...d%20in%20walls

Stucco is a water reservoir siding, the water goes through and stays in it, soaking the OSB without protection. The joints may get wet and swell. Easier to pull the screen now and fix the WRB (felt paper) before problems arise later.The sheathing gets moisture from the outside and inside (people, animals, cooking, bathing, -- the reason exhaust fans are required in laundry, bath, kitchen, anywhere a water source).

Edit: I forgot about this: “In a vapor open assembly, OSB tends to retain
moisture due to its low vapor permeability and the
relatively large amount of moisture-wicking end-grain
exposed compared to plywood.” Read the short article.... http://www.cityofseattle.net/dclu/ne...dy_summary.pdf

Gary

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Last edited by Gary in WA; 12-02-2010 at 10:51 PM. Reason: End grain swell
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