Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-12-2012, 12:12 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 40
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


I have a prehung interior door I am going to frame into a basement wall, which is not load bearing.

The door just fits height wise with 3/4" clearance below the top plate, so I can not fit a traditional "header" in.

I was thinking that in this case I didn't need a cripple stud running along side my king stud because it seems redundant to me.

So in this case my "Framing" should simply consist of one 2x4 on either side of the door.

Or am I missing something?

Thanks


hswerdfe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2012, 12:33 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: CO
Posts: 38
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


That's what I would do since its not load bearing. Gotta love short basements....

mbryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2012, 12:36 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 27,518
Rewards Points: 4,152
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


The jack is only to hold up the header, no header no need for it.
I would consider adding an extra 2 X 4's on the two sides to make it easyer to attach the trim.
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2012, 12:43 AM   #4
AHH, SPANS!!!
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 1,684
Rewards Points: 1,032
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


you want to still add a double on either side of the opening, the king jack combo as used in walls around doors not only holds the header up but provides more solid support to mount the door and trim to than a single stud at either side of the door would.. also, the double gives much more solid nailing surface where the studs land on the plates.
hand drive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2012, 04:16 PM   #5
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,748
Rewards Points: 2,112
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


doubling it makes for a stiffer door too..less chance of the jamb shifting
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: zentral Iowa
Posts: 1,266
Rewards Points: 618
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


What he said.

If you have a hollow door, you are fine.

If you have a 1 3/4" solid core door, you will want some beef in the wall. It is no unheard of in that instance to have two studs and then the cripple.
cleveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2012, 10:19 PM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 28
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


A single 2X4 on each side of the door opening is sufficient strength to hold a interior door if sheetrock is installed on both sides of the wall. If you have short pieces of 2X4 left over, they can be nailed to each door stud so you have extra width to nail your door casing to. But this is one of those nice but not necessary items.
Bruntson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #8
Haverhill Trade 1965
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 532
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


Even KD lumber is seldom any drier than the air it is in. whe wood will shrink and bow around every big knot or "wild grain". Two studs will resist warping of the studs better. It's your choice if you want to take the chance for $8.00
Duckweather is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 09:48 AM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 40
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Not using a cripple stud on an Interior door frame?


Thanks everybody for your replies, you guys on this forum are all great.

In the end I did go with singles on both sides, but on the hinge side which was only 3.5 inches from the end stud. I blocked the end stud to the king stud. in 3 locations. I figured that would help resist warping.

I did this before most of the replies below, were in. It seems the consensus, was to double it up. Had I waited till now and next time I probably will double it up. but what is done is done.

on the details
- Bruntson: I was going to install sheet rock on both sides.
- cleveman: yes the door is hollow
- Duckweather : a stud in my area is ~$5.50

hswerdfe is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
When to replace rotted stud vs. epoxy ken57 Building & Construction 4 11-08-2011 07:48 AM
moving a load bearing stud Tonglebeak Building & Construction 34 07-07-2010 01:32 PM
Moving a Stud HooKooDooKu Building & Construction 5 02-23-2010 02:11 AM
Is it safe to remove this stud? lofar Remodeling 4 06-17-2009 12:22 AM
Replace Cripple Wall to Raise Foundation? casey_wa Building & Construction 1 08-04-2007 05:32 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.