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Old 12-30-2008, 08:36 PM   #1
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not sure if this has been asked, Vapor Question here


I am putting up new walls in my crawl space.
Floor is concrete walls are brick.
This room is under the sunken living room, so I want to insulate it to keep the room a little warmer so the living room is a bit warmer as this room isn't heated.
I have heard both stories, put vapor barrier on outside and place wood on top of plastic, as well as only put vapor barrier on the inside.
The walls are going to be 2x4 framing, with Roxul Flexibatt R14 insulation and wood paneling.

I am also in central Ontario where the summers are humid, and winters are cold.

So do I put the plastic up against the brick, and the wall against it? Or do I put up the wall first and put plastic on the outside of the framing? or can I put the plastic on both sides?

(I have 6 mil plastic which I have been told is the proper plastic for vapor barriers)

Andrew

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Old 12-31-2008, 06:59 AM   #2
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Is the area a crawl space or basement (I know you said crawl space). I guess I'm wondering why you would go to all the effort of putting up walls in a crawl space unless your just trying to make it look really nice? Is the area damp at all?

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Old 12-31-2008, 07:03 AM   #3
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Your climate is considerably different from ours, but we often use 2" EPS rigid foam directly on the walls. Works for us. They make a board that has slots every 2' for furring strips. Use tapcons thru the furring strips to hold the foam in place
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Old 12-31-2008, 11:06 AM   #4
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well it isn't a crawlspace it is a room under a sunken living room with a 5' ceiling. The room is 14' by 24' with 3 outside walls. The room above it is quite a bit cooler then the rest of the house since that room isn't heated. We use it as storage so I want to insulate it a bit to help keep the room above a bit warmer.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:32 PM   #5
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A few months ago, I helped my old man so the same thing. He has a crawl space (Storage space, as he would tell me) below his living room. All we did was use 2" Extruded Polystyrene over all the 3 of the outside foundation walls. To fasten to the walls, all we used was i believe an "Expoxy Glue".

Its already helped considerably with heat in the room directly above. The room stays warmer longer than it did the year before.

-Bill
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:59 PM   #6
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In a very cold zone like Ontario, you would put the plastic up last before sheetrock, and if you aren't putting up sheetrock then you would just put up plastic last on outside walls. Unless you are using other forms of vapor barriers such as XPS. If the walls in this area are made up of concrete you would build your stud walls away from this concrete so it doesn't touch.

The only other variable that I think would worry me is if you aren't going to heat the space. Any space that gets sealed up without air movement is going to have moisture problems, especially below grade.

What is the floor made out of here? Dirt?
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:06 AM   #7
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the floor is concrete
the room is 14'x25', with both 14' and one 25' wall as outside walls brick only.

Last edited by Andrew Whitehead; 01-02-2009 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:56 PM   #8
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http://www.buildingscience.com/searc...xt=crawl+space

check out this site.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:08 AM   #9
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Andrew, if you use the foam board it must be coverred, sealed as it is flamamble. Some use 1"foam then 2x4 then roxul or pink fibreglass.
There is federal and provincial/rebate money available if you have an energy audit done first prior to insulating any part of your basement or upgrading attic, etc. The audit will cost $300 net after 2 visits. You will have 18 months to complete the work and have it reinspected.
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Old 01-04-2009, 11:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemist1961 View Post
Andrew, if you use the foam board it must be coverred, sealed as it is flamamble. Some use 1"foam then 2x4 then roxul or pink fibreglass.
There is federal and provincial/rebate money available if you have an energy audit done first prior to insulating any part of your basement or upgrading attic, etc. The audit will cost $300 net after 2 visits. You will have 18 months to complete the work and have it reinspected.
rest of the basement is already finished, the cost to finish this room isn't going to be that expensive, that the rebate probably won't cover the audit.

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