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Old 01-13-2010, 04:08 PM   #16
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


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Originally Posted by canyonbc View Post
As others have stated talking with an inspector or engineer is a must.

Personally either way I would put a header over it, I see it has long term insurance.

Would hate to see settling or something else lead to sagging or to much stress on the windows to where they would not open correctly.

I know you have built in but seems to me that easier to add a header now then 5 years say for example when it is drywalled and you have been using the space.

Just an opinion.
I totally agree with the long term insurance thing. Although i pray i wont need to add a header, and that scuba dave is correct, what is the best way to add a header? My plywood is already nailed on. I think a reciprocating saw would be tricky. I wish i had a larger circular saw, but dont. Maybe run a my mag77 at full depth across the cripples?

As with the inspectors... it is terrible out here. There are limited inspectors, and huge lines. They never pick up the phone

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Old 01-13-2010, 04:10 PM   #17
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


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Old 01-13-2010, 04:14 PM   #18
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


Well if you don't mind a small "soffit" over your windows
Take a 16' 2x8/2x10 or 2x12 (bigger the better)
Cut it to exact length to fit over your windows on the inside- wall to wall
Now use trusslucks/nails to secure it to all the upright 2x's along the wall
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:48 PM   #19
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


You have two 2x12's nailed together on the rim (perimeter)?

If d.f./South or Larch (North), with fb of 1650# or 1750#, they will carry avg. of 3735# total load, or two 1966 VW beetles on top, safely. (1672# curb weight each).

That is 16' span = 233# per sq.ft. load.

I would not add any headers over the windows especially with the the studs tying in at the top. The rafters are your headers, without the studs. Keep your windows 1/4" down from framing above,with FULL bearing under the whole window as per manufacturer for the warranty.

Framing is quality. Even rafter ties..... Good job!

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:25 PM   #20
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
The rafters are your headers
Only if nailed together in the right pattern.
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Keep your windows 1/4" down from framing above,with FULL bearing under the whole window as per manufacturer for the warranty.
I cut 1" strips of material to allow the windows to sit up off the framing to create a space for foam/insulation. Thickness depends on the RO and site available material. 1/4" minimum.
Place/nail the strips on the outside of the RO, set the window on it and it gives the insulation some room.
Might not be as big a concern in Hawaii to have the insulation in place.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:41 PM   #21
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


ONE 2x12, #1, will support 4482# with an 8' span, or 2-5/8 VW's, lol. We both should have said-- follow your window instructions stuck on the glass that came with them. Some require a wedge shim, others full bearing, others pieced bearing, etc.
If only we had some of the OP's weather.......

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:46 PM   #22
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


nail a sheet of 1/2" ply on the interior wall then panel or drywall over that, may need jamb extensions depending on interior trim finish
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:34 AM   #23
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


Well that is a good question, I will attempt a brief answer. The flexure of the Roof Rafter is the only real issue. Normally a carpenter will make all exterior walls supporting but that does not mean it is absolutely necessary. If you are pulling a permit then you will have to satisfy the inspector so if that is the case you would need to ask him foremost. Otherwise you only need to satisfy yourself. The window appears quite wide which bumps the flexure issue up some. The main thing is you do not want the glass in the window (now or future installation) to crack from the stress. It appears you already have your top cripples installed so I'm assuming you want to use them and not have to purchase a couple of 2xHeaders for that width (2x8 for 8ft open, 2x10 for 10ft open etc). If you can hang a 200lb person off the rafter and it does not flex more than 3/16" then you could do the following. Cut a series of 1/2" deep cuts in the one side of your cripples (above the window) and then knock the wood off using a wide wood chisel and hammer. You now have a 1/2" recessed area to install 1/2" CDX plywood, glued and nailed every 5" on one side of the crippled wall above the window. This will give you a box bean effect that should protect any flexure issues. OR you could cut of the cripples off at the bottom (in place) with a reciprocating saw, the width of the 2xHeaders required and slip the headers in.
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Old 01-16-2010, 12:48 PM   #24
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


If you do have it inspected, he may want to see the 1/4" space above the window for header deflection as our inspectors do. This is why I mentioned it earlier. Window instructions usually require this also.

With 4482# load, or 560# per ft. you have 9/16" deflection.

With 200# load, you have 1/32" deflection. If you don't store much lava rock on top, you should be fine.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-16-2010, 03:52 PM   #25
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I just noticed, there is Tyvek on the outside, no sheathing ?

Yeah, I saw that too. Makes me wonder about lots of other elements.
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:50 PM   #26
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Thanks guys. Lots of good ideas
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:51 PM   #27
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Yeah, I saw that too. Makes me wonder about lots of other elements.
The pic was taken before the siding went on. Im using t1-11, so the sheathing is on top of the wrap
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:34 PM   #28
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Non-Load Bearing Wall Window Framing?


I'm sure it will be quality work like the framing! Here is a good site about plywood: http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/...TOKEN=27731641

Keep up the good work.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:38 PM   #29
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I'm sure it will be quality work like the framing! Here is a good site about plywood: http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/...TOKEN=27731641

Keep up the good work.

Be safe, Gary
Cool. Thanks gary. I'll post pics once the drywall and trim goes up.

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