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Old 10-20-2007, 08:37 PM   #1
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Non load bearing header Help!


Hi, I hope someone can help. I am building a 26 wide 36 deep garage. I have all walls framed except front. The front has double 8x9 garage openings (Non load bearing wall). Since its a non load bearing wall I was able to purchase a doug fir 4x12x20 to span both openings. I will have a short center wall. My question is can I support this beam with one cripple on each end or do I have to have two on each end. If I have to have two cripples I will have to purchase a longer header.
Its the weekend and I cannot contact my building inspector.
Thanks in advance for any replies.

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Old 10-20-2007, 09:35 PM   #2
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Non load bearing header Help!


I would not like the idea of it sitting on just 1 cripple each end. I would doubt that would be allowed... But then again I have been wrong twice before in my life

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Old 10-20-2007, 10:36 PM   #3
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Non load bearing header Help!


I would NOT, double jacks for me. Why do you need a longer beam? just reduce the Center wall. run doubles on ends, work your numbers for both ro's, the remainder is your center support.
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:52 AM   #4
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Non load bearing header Help!


Hey guys thanks for your replies. I did talk to an old Contractor friend of mine and this is what he told me. Since its non load bearing the single cripples will be fine. Then he told me I will actually have two when I trim the openings with 2x6's. These 2x6's will go from floor to header.

Skymaster, I can't reduce center wall. My walls are on concrete stem walls. My garage is 26' wide. 3'1" stem walls on each end with a 1'6" stem wall in the middle. My stem walls are about 6" above the floor.
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Old 10-21-2007, 01:10 PM   #5
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Non load bearing header Help!


I'm not sure why you would need double jacks when the header will also be supported in the middle.
I have recently completed a detached 24x36 garage and used a 4"x14"16' 'glue-lam' header with only single jacks or trimmers (the span is 16'). The county checked and approved my plans and the field inspection past. And this is in California where the inspectors seem to get paid for finding violations.
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Old 10-21-2007, 01:53 PM   #6
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Non load bearing header Help!


Hi SeanR,
Thanks for your reply. You must have one garage door. My garage originally started out 24x36 but decided to go 2' wider. My brother engineered my plans and by going the extra 2' caused some structural issues with shear walls and such. I'm sure I will be fine on what I'm doing and if not I won't have and sheeting on walls because the inspector has to see the straps in the back before I cover it with t-111. The front and side will have lap siding. By the way I did talk to my brother and he wasn't sure about the cripples.
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:33 PM   #7
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Non load bearing header Help!


Hey Rockdog, around here (Northern Calif.)we use the word 'cripple' to mean the short 2x's that go on top of the header and under the lower top plate.
As far as the garage goes, I have a 24x24 concrete slap with a 6" wide foundation wall. Then a step up supported by joists and 3/4" ply which contains two small shop/storage areas with a 1/2 bath between.

It's gonna be great having arm room and sufficient light in my shop, It'll be the first time in my life. Finally.

Good luck on your project. Are you building it yourself? Will you be using pre-fab trusses?
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Old 10-21-2007, 05:21 PM   #8
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Non load bearing header Help!


SeanR, cripple up here in southwest washington could mean the same thing, I just remember my dad always calling them cripples maybe because when you only use one on each end they become crippled under the weight.
Yes, I am building myself, just came in to take a break after that header. I think it will be fine, have six studs in the middle, don't thinks its going anywhere.
My garage is also detached from the house. The garage attached to the house is very small with standard 7x8 doors (what a joke). We just got rid of our Expedition and purchase a Toyota Prius and this car will fit in our existing garage so guess what, I'm getting a new shop to!!
Yes, I will be using pre-fab trusses. Are you still working on yours or is it completed?
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Old 10-21-2007, 06:04 PM   #9
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Nope, it's not done yet. There are two areas which I don't do. the first is the insulation. I found it's actually cheaper to have someone do it than for me to buy the insulation. And secondly, the dry-wall. I just don't like doing that. And that's where we are now. The rock is up and hopefully it will be taped and tectured on Monday.

I've been working on this for two years now, hopefully we will be able to park the cars in it before the snow flys. We're at 4,000 feet so it could be any day now.

Wish I had heard of this place when I started. It's really been great to post a question and get answer the same day. Especially in the electrical department.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:58 AM   #10
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Non load bearing header Help!


Ya I know how it is I've been working on mine for approx. a year and a half. Took me a long time to get the form work done. Plywood is not cheap and I have a 36' 5' stem wall on one side then the back steps down to 2'.
Send a photo when your done I'd like to see how it turns out.
Did you tap into your meter for your electrical or your house panel?
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:04 PM   #11
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Non load bearing header Help!


Yes, I did tap into the house 200 amp box. Long story here.
I built my house also, that's where I learned I didn't like to do dry-wall. Anyway, at the time I wired the house my wife really wanted a hot-tub (I didn't) which we couldn't afford to put in at the time, but I did lay-out 3 #6 wires under the house for the stupid tub. Well after six years she desided the chemicals in the tub are harmful so that's what I used to get to the garage.
And yeah, I could send ya a picture, since the exterior is completed.

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