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Old 01-10-2012, 11:49 AM   #16
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Here is a link about 24inch framing. It is in the code book. Allowed for 1 story buildings or walls that are not load bearing.
http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy01osti/26449.pdf

I have renovated houses that had 12" o/c spacing. in non-load bearing walls. That was his preference, yours is for 16" o/c (which is what I used to do as well) 24" is perfectly fine

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Old 01-10-2012, 11:54 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by mae-ling
Here is a link about 24inch framing. It is in the code book. Allowed for 1 story buildings or walls that are not load bearing.
http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy01osti/26449.pdf

I have renovated houses that had 12" o/c spacing. in non-load bearing walls. That was his preference, yours is for 16" o/c (which is what I used to do as well) 24" is perfectly fine
I don't need to go to any link.
I repeat. You are a lousy carpenter if you take any short-cut you can.

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Old 01-10-2012, 12:53 PM   #18
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There is no top plate to this wall?
The way I read that is a 2x4 works on the flat up to 8' without cripples, more than 8' needs cripples.

Anything you put in for a header will work go double 2x6 with plywood inbetween or triple or double or triple 2x8, nail it or glue and screw
I guess that's open to interpretation. If they were hinged doors, I'd probably just use a flat 2x with cripples. But because these are hanging, I'd feel more comfortable with a header.

Anyway, here's what I came up with. All 2x6's except 1x stock to finish off the jamb.

Think it will work?
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:57 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by GottaFixIt

I guess that's open to interpretation. If they were hinged doors, I'd probably just use a flat 2x with cripples. But because these are hanging, I'd feel more comfortable with a header.

Anyway, here's what I came up with. All 2x6's except 1x stock to finish off the jamb.

Think it will work?
Looks like a box header.
Good choice. Looks good.

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Old 01-10-2012, 01:00 PM   #20
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Looks like a box header.
Good choice. Looks good.

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Box header with double jack studs as you'd suggested.

Probably overkill, but lumber is cheap compared to how I'd feel if it sagged.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by GottaFixIt

Box header with double jack studs as you'd suggested.

Probably overkill, but lumber is cheap compared to how I'd feel if it sagged.
Can I ask, is that a CADD program or something else you're using?
You obviously know your way around it.

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Old 01-10-2012, 01:25 PM   #22
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Y'all are missing the point.

He's going to hang a heavy door from it.

I would use a pair of 2x8 and rip part of a 2x4 to fill the gap between them, glued and screwed.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:31 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pyper
Y'all are missing the point.

He's going to hang a heavy door from it.

I would use a pair of 2x8 and rip part of a 2x4 to fill the gap between them, glued and screwed.
Whose "y'll"? I'm not missing anything.

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Old 01-10-2012, 01:32 PM   #24
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Can I ask, is that a CADD program or something else you're using?
You obviously know your way around it.

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I will answer for you. It is google sketchup. It is free to all.

It takes some time to learn, but it is very useful for planning and visuals.

To the OP: I did see the S/U model of your doorway, and it looks good to me.

Peace.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:19 PM   #25
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Yep, as others have said will work fine.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:29 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by titanoman View Post
Can I ask, is that a CADD program or something else you're using?
You obviously know your way around it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beanfacekilla View Post
I will answer for you. It is google sketchup. It is free to all.

It takes some time to learn, but it is very useful for planning and visuals.

To the OP: I did see the S/U model of your doorway, and it looks good to me.

Peace.
Yep. Sketchup.

I have a hard time visualizing designs. I use it to overcome that. I always start with graph paper, then move to a model.

When framing becomes more complex than simple 16" OC, I usually use it to figure it out and make a material list.

Here's another example. This was absolutely necessary for me as I was lost trying to figure the angles and lengths on graph paper.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:41 PM   #27
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That's pretty cool.

I went to Architecture school at the University of Missouri, Columbia, and am a pencil and paper draftsman.
We touched on CADD, but I didn't persue the CADDP.

I think I will go play with that Google app in a little while.

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Old 01-11-2012, 06:06 PM   #28
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You are putting bottom runners on those doors,this should prevent sagging over time.

I made a folding door arrangement (4 doors) across a balcony using Johnson folding door hardware,Header above was 2 2 by 4's.

It has been in place about 5 years with no sagging,doors were fire rated and the four together weighed 140 pounds.

Probably shouldn't have asked my wife to lift them into place,but they wanted the vote!!! LOL
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by spring3100
You are putting bottom runners on those doors,this should prevent sagging over time.

I made a folding door arrangement (4 doors) across a balcony using Johnson folding door hardware,Header above was 2 2 by 4's.

It has been in place about 5 years with no sagging,doors were fire rated and the four together weighed 140 pounds.

Probably shouldn't have asked my wife to lift them into place,but they wanted the vote!!! LOL
The bottom tract isn't going to prevent sagging. That's not why it's there.
Besides, they already framed it, and did it right.

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Old 01-11-2012, 10:58 PM   #30
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The bottom tract isn't going to prevent sagging. That's not why it's there.
Besides, they already framed it, and did it right.

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It'll guide and support just fine

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