DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

New shed

3K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  woodworkbykirk 
#1 ·
Here is a picture of my shed now. I don't like it. But, what i came here for is to ask do you guys have any advice for me or any tips. I want to keep it basically the same and the dimensions will stay the same (20'x12') because there is a cement pad for the foundation. It's going to be made of wood and instead of the door on there i would like to install a pull up garage door. I was also wondering if you could give me a rough estimate of supplies and maybe a rough price. This would be very helpful. Thanks.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#20 ·
It may be worth it to you to visit a library or look around online and find a good shed building book which covers design and fundamental building methods. Most of them will tell you how to figure openings, roofs, and structure in simple terms and just may save you money. Also "a picture is worth a thousand words" when it comes to describing how to do something. Anyway, best of luck with your project.
 
#3 ·
Well, Beans, you said you wanted a project. Looks like you found one. Start with a book. I just used one on Framing, from Creative Homeowner. I liked it. Started at the bottom, worked up.

A REAL rough estimate:
1 2x4 stud per foot of perimeter
3 times the perimeter for the top and bottom plates, 2x4s
That amount of $ again for the roof framing.
Perimeter, in feet, divided by 4 for sheathing (4x8 sheets)
Sq footage x 1.5 for roof sheathing, felt and shingles.
Doors and windows as you like.

Do a little math, make a few calls. Hook up with a local lumber yard. They might help figure it out, and probably deliver.
 
#4 ·
draw up a sketch of exactly what you want, then post it. i can calculate the materials pretty quickly based on that if the drawing is detailed enough.. only thing you will need is to buy materials. anything extra i allow is for bracing.. to keep walls standing during the construction.. when its done that material can easily be turned into your new workbench.

normally i wont mention that ill calculate this sort of thing here but i see your young and keen. send me a pm and if i have time ill see what i can do.. currently working on 4 other estimates while having 4 renovations already on the go
 
#5 · (Edited)
Is the frame of the shed in bad shape? Everything appears to be pretty straight, especially the ridge. It might be beneficial for you to consider keeping the framing and stripping off the siding redoing it, reworking the gable end to accept a rollup door, and the money saved can be used to afford some niceties that wouldn't have been in the budget otherwise (i.e. electrical, interior walls, benches, tools, etc.)

I would have suggested otherwise, but since you are keeping the same dimensions and the condition of the shed from the picture SEEMS to be in good shape to put the money spent on what is already there (the framing) for other things.
 
#6 ·
<*(((>< said:
Is the frame of the shed in bad shape? Everything appears to be pretty straight, especially the ridge. It might be beneficial for you to consider keeping the framing and stripping off the siding redoing it, reworking the gable end to accept a rollup door, and the money saved can be used to afford some niceties that wouldn't have been in the budget otherwise (i.e. electrical, interior walls, benches, tools, etc.)

I would have suggested otherwise, but since you are keeping the same dimensions and the condition of the shed from the picture SEEMS to be in good shape to put the money spent on what is already there (the framing) for other things.
I've thought about this an i would keep the frame but, 1) the bottom is all rotted out, and 2) i want it a little different. I want to make it a little higher (only about 2 feet) and add a loft for extra storage.
 
#7 ·
woodworkbykirk said:
draw up a sketch of exactly what you want, then post it. i can calculate the materials pretty quickly based on that if the drawing is detailed enough.. only thing you will need is to buy materials. anything extra i allow is for bracing.. to keep walls standing during the construction.. when its done that material can easily be turned into your new workbench.

normally i wont mention that ill calculate this sort of thing here but i see your young and keen. send me a pm and if i have time ill see what i can do.. currently working on 4 other estimates while having 4 renovations already on the go
Thank you so much, this would help me a lot. This is my first real large scale project and i didn't want to go in alone. Here are pictures of a drawing i just did. Sorry for lack of artistic talent and good penmanship, but hopefully you can help me. And if not or your to busy or something don't worry about it. I could do this by myself maybe, but I'd rather make sure it was done right. Thanks again.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
joecaption said:
For the maximum useable space you may want to go with this roof style.
http://www.barnplans.com/gambrelroof.php
I thought about that when i was first thinking about this whole project, but thanks and since someone else mentioned it i think I'll go with it. I'll have to take a trip to menards an see if they have any templates or something to help me with that.
 
#10 ·
If you are careful...and use adequate bracing you can replace one wall at a time (framing) without a problem. Any changes you need to make in the walls can be made as you build them. The roof doesn't look bad in the picture...do you need to replace the roof? It's only as complicated as you make it.
 
#11 ·
Missouri Bound said:
If you are careful...and use adequate bracing you can replace one wall at a time (framing) without a problem. Any changes you need to make in the walls can be made as you build them. The roof doesn't look bad in the picture...do you need to replace the roof? It's only as complicated as you make it.
Yes! The roof needs to be replaced. If i took a picture of the inside you would see that its surprising there is a roof. I'm exaggerating a little. But from a hail storm like 6 years ago the shingles are torn up on the side i didn't show in the picture. And actually just how the frame of the roof is, I would rather replace it to. And another thing is if i went with my dream shed thats in the drawings, it will actually be about 2 feet higher because i want a loft and actually cost wise and everything i might end up keeping it how it is and go with what you said and build 1 wall at a time. But the roof has to be replaced.
 
#13 ·
1/2" x 5" concrete wedge anchors - 25pc (anchoring bottom plates down to concrete floor
2x4x14' - 16 pc plate stock
2x4x 9' - 60 pc studs (allowing a few extra for possible windows openings)
2x12x8' - 3pc header for garage door
25 lb 3 1/2" hand spikes
25 lbs 2 1/4" ardox hand nails
20 sheets 7/16 wall osb
1 roll tyvek
1 box 3/8 staples (for hammer tacker or staple gun)

this is just the wall material as i dont know what you want for a roof design exactly. if you want a mansard roof your best bet is to order trusses built for the structure...
 
#15 ·
Look around for a 20 X 12 kit. It will have everything you need to just stick a new shed on top of the existing foundation. You may even be able to buy a pre-assembled building they will deliver and drop right on your slab. But you will still have to get rid of the existing building.

Something like these...........



Derksen Portable Buildings
 
#16 ·
woodworkbykirk said:
1/2" x 5" concrete wedge anchors - 25pc (anchoring bottom plates down to concrete floor
2x4x14' - 16 pc plate stock
2x4x 9' - 60 pc studs (allowing a few extra for possible windows openings)
2x12x8' - 3pc header for garage door
25 lb 3 1/2" hand spikes
25 lbs 2 1/4" ardox hand nails
20 sheets 7/16 wall osb
1 roll tyvek
1 box 3/8 staples (for hammer tacker or staple gun)

this is just the wall material as i dont know what you want for a roof design exactly. if you want a mansard roof your best bet is to order trusses built for the structure...
Thank you so much. This will really help a lot. Whenever i do it I'll make sure to put up pictures on this thread.
 
#17 ·
Personaly I would not go with any prebuilt shed, reasons why.
There going to have stapled the shingles not nailed them.
Not enough over hang on the roof.
No drip cap on the sheathing.
Most do not even use tar paper on the roof.
Cheap high maintaince T-111 siding if it is vinyl siding it will be stapled on not nailed, not a good thing.
No Tyvek under the siding.
 
#18 ·
I'm sure you are correct. But the OP doesn't seem too sure what he wants and this is only a suggestion. And he probably couldn't build the prebuilt for less money.....just my opinion:whistling2:
 
#19 ·
Missouri Bound said:
Look around for a 20 X 12 kit. It will have everything you need to just stick a new shed on top of the existing foundation. You may even be able to buy a pre-assembled building they will deliver and drop right on your slab. But you will still have to get rid of the existing building.

Something like these...........

Derksen Portable Buildings
These are great, but i was looking for something i can build because I've always had an interest in building and construction and actually i want to either be an electrician or i wanna start with a construction company and work my way up to own my own company. So i don't want to buy some over-priced pre made building when i can build it myself, you know what I mean.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top