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Old 09-22-2009, 03:36 PM   #1
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


I'm building an addition which is adding a level to a sunroom. As I was putting up a rough fascia today, I noticed an error. The new roof should tie into the old on the bottom edge. However, my roof edges don't line up. The overhang on the old roof is 16.25" and if the new roof is the same, I end up about an inch to low. I must have checked 5x and came up with a 7.25:12 pitch on the commons and 5:12 on the hips. The pitch must be slightly different or there's some sag in the old roof. In any case, I F'ed up. To make the edge of the new roof match to the old I need to cut the new rafters back so that the overhang would be about 14.75". Can anyone think of a better solution or do you think the 1.5" difference between overhangs would be noticeable by anybody but me?

The attached pic is about 5 weeks ago just to give you an idea of the size of the addition (~8x11'). The old roof isn't entirely cut back yet in this picture.
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New Roof overhang exposure difference-6450_1174683697396_1537173951_30467724_3126108_n.jpg  

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Last edited by Clutchcargo; 09-22-2009 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:33 PM   #2
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


I doubt anyone would notice a 1 1/2 inch difference in overhang at that height so cutting back the overhangs would work.

Another option might be to adjust the new fascia so that the bottom of the new fascia (and the new soffit) match the bottom of the current fascia and soffit. No one will notice the difference in the fascia dimensions behind gutters at that height. So for example if the current fascia is 1x8 then cut 1" off a 1x8 for the new fascia. You still might have to cut a horizontal cut on the bottom end of each rafter tail if it's dimension is greater than the new fascia.

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Old 09-22-2009, 08:49 PM   #3
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


Yes, I would really notice. You'll need a new gutter on that side anyway, just cut your tails so the top of the fascia boards flush out. You may want to rip your rafters to 4" or ? to match the house's tails thickness. Cut back the house's fascia to extend it if needed (4 or 6'). I'm wondering why the addition's top plates don't tie into the house's? I would cut the over-hang off the house (at a 45* for the valley) to tie the sheathing and framing at the house exterior wall. It's easier to install a ridge wild to the house roof plane, cut it off at the required (1/2 span of new addition) distance for the commons, hips, jacks. Hopefully, you have egress for that bedroom addition in a window (20 wide- 41 high up to 34 wide- 24high, 44" off the floor). If more work is needed, send them here for attic ventilation, looks as if they really need some....
Be safe, Gary
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:14 PM   #4
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


Thanks, that pic is an old one taken earlier in the project.
The roof is cut off already and the ridge is installed with all the rafters.
I was just installing the rough fascia. the tail width does match to the house and the top plate is tied into house, I just didn't want to commit to cutting that section of the roof off at that point. What you can't see is two holes in the roof that the top plate goes through to meet the house's top plate. The rafters in the pic are only there for a sanity check. I took a step back to make sure that visually, there is no difference in pitch.
At this point it is nearly ready to be sheathed just the rough fascia is left.

GBR are you saying you would notice the inch and half but there is nothing that can be done about it now anyway? Damn, I hate it when I make a homeowner mistake.
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:34 PM   #5
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


My rear sunroom overhang is about 22"
I wanted the overhang to block the sun in the summer - works great
2nd floor overhang is about 12" -- too high to measure
Front (original) is about 12", matched on 3 season porch
Addition is maybe 10" in the front -- haven't measure it
And 12" in the back, this due to the length of the rafters - 20'
Between the rafter length & the tall arched picture window that's what IU ended up with

I doubt I'd notice, 1.5" isn't much
I don't check out other people's houses like that

Dang that looks close to the property line
Here we only need 15'
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:49 PM   #6
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


I guess the only thing that would be worst would be a crooked overhang. Between the out-of-plumb, out-of-level old-structure, and never framing a roof before, this has been kicking my a$$ every step of the way.
Note to DIYers: Do not take on a hip roof on your first roof framing attempt.
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:56 PM   #7
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Yeah - 1st thing I did on my plans when I decided I would be building it was switch to straight plain roofs

Plus the South side I figure will have a solar array one day
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:04 PM   #8
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


Yes, match the new to the old, even if it means shortening your overhang. The fascia has to come out even for the gutter to wrap. The finished depth of the overhang is not important, the gutter/fascia is.
Be safe, Gary
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:10 PM   #9
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


The gutters... of course. That makes it definitive, Thanks GBR.
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:16 PM   #10
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New Roof overhang exposure difference


Here's what I've learned for anyone that may be doing something similar.
I should have taken the roof pitch on the old roof, much closer to the rafter tails of the rafters that are closest to the intersection of the new roof. There is a little bit of sag in the old roof. There's even a slight difference between each rafter over the course of 14'. You gotta love these old houses.

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