Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-06-2013, 09:01 AM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: OKC Oklahoma
Posts: 25
Share |
Question

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


My question is what is the best way to attach these ceiling joist to the top plate?
-----------------------------------------------------
I am removing a chimney stack and fireplace today in my 1969 ranch.

The fireplace is double-sided with shelves on either side. The brick structure which encompasses the fireplace and shelves is 4 ft 6 in wide and 13 feet long.

No, the fireplace/chimney is not load bearing. I've been in the attic and can see the ceiling joist run parallel to the brick structure. There is a wall that holds the load 3 feet away as I saw the lap joints there.

Once removed, I will need to install 3 new joist. The local lumber yard looked up the span, which is approximately 18 feet, and said I should use 2x12 #2.

My question is what is the best way to attach these ceiling joist to the top plates?

kevinok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2013, 09:04 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 26,248
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


Can you hold the chimmney closer to the screen, can't see it from here with out a picture.

__________________
When posting in forums, letting us know your location will help others give better feedback/advice/solutions to your questions
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to joecaption For This Useful Post:
gregzoll (04-20-2013)
Old 04-06-2013, 09:32 AM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: OKC Oklahoma
Posts: 25
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


Didn't think it would be relevant to the question "What is the best way to attach these ceiling joist to the top plate?"

But, here you go...
Attached Thumbnails
New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal-external-shot.jpg   New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal-interior-north.jpg   New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal-interior-south.jpg  
kevinok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2013, 11:09 PM   #4
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,846
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


maybe a photo of the ceiling framing around the chimney from the attic might be more helpful
__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to GBrackins For This Useful Post:
gregzoll (04-20-2013), joecaption (04-07-2013)
Old 04-06-2013, 11:49 PM   #5
Roofmaster
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,535
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


This does not make any sense. There should be a double joist running along both sides of the chimney with a double header on each end of the chimney between to carry the ceiling independant of the masonry. You should only need to block between the doubles to carry your new ceiling, and the same where the chimney breaches the roof. Take some pictures in the attic of the framing around the chimney at the ceiling and the roof and post them. I hope you are not going to use that thing you have cobbled together to stand on, especially if its just nailed. There is no cross bracing.
__________________
" A lot of men build things, and a lot of things fall down "


Last edited by jagans; 04-06-2013 at 11:52 PM.
jagans is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to jagans For This Useful Post:
oh'mike (04-07-2013)
Old 04-07-2013, 09:37 AM   #6
AHH, SPANS!!!
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 1,658
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


the bulk of that chimney could be facade with just the flue section entering through the attic but seems more likely that the brick would step back as it gets closer to penetrating the roof... even if only just the middle flue section goes through to the roof the ceiling joists should be headered around it at some point just like the roof rafters should be doing in the roof framing system. As Jagans mentions, you should only have to fill in in between the doubled ceiling joists headers and the double rafter headers that go around the chimney once the chimney is removed...
hand drive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2013, 09:41 AM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: OKC Oklahoma
Posts: 25
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
I hope you are not going to use that thing you have cobbled together to stand on, especially if its just nailed. There is no cross bracing.
Oh no! That was just something i cobbled together for another project... We painted cabinet doors on it.
kevinok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2013, 04:21 PM   #8
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: OKC Oklahoma
Posts: 25
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
This does not make any sense. There should be a double joist running along both sides of the chimney with a double header on each end of the chimney between to carry the ceiling independant of the masonry. You should only need to block between the doubles to carry your new ceiling, and the same where the chimney breaches the roof. Take some pictures in the attic of the framing around the chimney at the ceiling and the roof and post them.
There is not a double joist, nor is there a double header as the opening is 42" wide between the joist. All the joists in the ceiling are 2x6. They span 16 feet from external wall to interior load bearing wall.

So, are you saying I just need to add in 2x6 joist framing to close this hole in?


The lumber yard sold me 20' 2x12 to replace the 2 joist where the fireplace was. My plan was to rip out the existing tail joist on either side of the opening and then install these 2x12's. Now I'm looking at it and I'm not sure how I'm going to tie in the strong backs since they are sitting on 2x6 in the rest of the ceiling.
kevinok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2013, 05:02 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 713
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


From the attic, does your structure look something like this? (Yes,I know its a scrappy sketch!).
If so, just fill in the gap with 2x6s on joist hangers. They're shown in red going across the gap but on reflection it may be structurally better to run them parallel to the main ceiling joists.
Attached Thumbnails
New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal-mini-scan1385.jpg  
tony.g is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to tony.g For This Useful Post:
kevinok (04-20-2013)
Old 04-20-2013, 07:09 PM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: OKC Oklahoma
Posts: 25
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by tony.g View Post
From the attic, does your structure look something like this? (Yes,I know its a scrappy sketch!).
If so, just fill in the gap with 2x6s on joist hangers. They're shown in red going across the gap but on reflection it may be structurally better to run them parallel to the main ceiling joists.
Yes! That's how it looks. Great to know I can finish that out with 2x6's... now I get to take back some 2x12's.
kevinok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2013, 12:10 AM   #11
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: OKC Oklahoma
Posts: 25
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by tony.g View Post
From the attic, does your structure look something like this? (Yes,I know its a scrappy sketch!).
If so, just fill in the gap with 2x6s on joist hangers. They're shown in red going across the gap but on reflection it may be structurally better to run them parallel to the main ceiling joists.
  1. That's not a scrappy sketch. Pretty darn good if you ask me.
  2. Why on joist hangers? Can I use an air nailer and shoot some nails in?
  3. Also, from your picture, in reality, the joist stringer on the left and right of the fireplace do not actually go from one full joist to the other. It stops at the second partial joist. Weird. I think this caused the front right corner to be about 1/2 inch lower than the other side. Is it okay to jack it up and sister it? If so, how long should the sister be? These joists are about 16 feet long.
kevinok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2013, 09:32 AM   #12
Roofmaster
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,535
Default

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal


Another great sketch Tony! Actually the long joists to the side of the boxed area should have originally been doubled, as should the headers, but if this is how its been for all these years, and the long joists did not set on the chimney, I would not worry about it.

__________________
" A lot of men build things, and a lot of things fall down "

jagans is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ceiling joist


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Repair/replace sill plate and joist ends heybales Building & Construction 5 02-16-2013 10:33 PM
Wall removal, ceiling joist issue. sc204 Building & Construction 21 07-15-2012 07:22 PM
notched out joist ? problem ? cvcman Building & Construction 13 05-24-2012 08:21 PM
Better to cut batts than scrunch them to open up space at rim joist? darlingm Insulation 2 08-30-2011 12:26 PM
one rotted deck joist to replace, need advice dougq Building & Construction 10 07-07-2009 02:18 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.