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kevinok 04-06-2013 09:01 AM

New Joist Installation for Chimney Removal
 
My question is what is the best way to attach these ceiling joist to the top plate?
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I am removing a chimney stack and fireplace today in my 1969 ranch.

The fireplace is double-sided with shelves on either side. The brick structure which encompasses the fireplace and shelves is 4 ft 6 in wide and 13 feet long.

No, the fireplace/chimney is not load bearing. I've been in the attic and can see the ceiling joist run parallel to the brick structure. There is a wall that holds the load 3 feet away as I saw the lap joints there.

Once removed, I will need to install 3 new joist. The local lumber yard looked up the span, which is approximately 18 feet, and said I should use 2x12 #2.

My question is what is the best way to attach these ceiling joist to the top plates?

joecaption 04-06-2013 09:04 AM

Can you hold the chimmney closer to the screen, can't see it from here with out a picture.

kevinok 04-06-2013 09:32 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Didn't think it would be relevant to the question "What is the best way to attach these ceiling joist to the top plate?"

But, here you go...

GBrackins 04-06-2013 11:09 PM

maybe a photo of the ceiling framing around the chimney from the attic might be more helpful

jagans 04-06-2013 11:49 PM

This does not make any sense. There should be a double joist running along both sides of the chimney with a double header on each end of the chimney between to carry the ceiling independant of the masonry. You should only need to block between the doubles to carry your new ceiling, and the same where the chimney breaches the roof. Take some pictures in the attic of the framing around the chimney at the ceiling and the roof and post them. I hope you are not going to use that thing you have cobbled together to stand on, especially if its just nailed. There is no cross bracing.

hand drive 04-07-2013 09:37 AM

the bulk of that chimney could be facade with just the flue section entering through the attic but seems more likely that the brick would step back as it gets closer to penetrating the roof... even if only just the middle flue section goes through to the roof the ceiling joists should be headered around it at some point just like the roof rafters should be doing in the roof framing system. As Jagans mentions, you should only have to fill in in between the doubled ceiling joists headers and the double rafter headers that go around the chimney once the chimney is removed...

kevinok 04-20-2013 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1153906)
I hope you are not going to use that thing you have cobbled together to stand on, especially if its just nailed. There is no cross bracing.

Oh no! That was just something i cobbled together for another project... We painted cabinet doors on it.

kevinok 04-20-2013 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1153906)
This does not make any sense. There should be a double joist running along both sides of the chimney with a double header on each end of the chimney between to carry the ceiling independant of the masonry. You should only need to block between the doubles to carry your new ceiling, and the same where the chimney breaches the roof. Take some pictures in the attic of the framing around the chimney at the ceiling and the roof and post them.

There is not a double joist, nor is there a double header as the opening is 42" wide between the joist. All the joists in the ceiling are 2x6. They span 16 feet from external wall to interior load bearing wall.

So, are you saying I just need to add in 2x6 joist framing to close this hole in?


The lumber yard sold me 20' 2x12 to replace the 2 joist where the fireplace was. My plan was to rip out the existing tail joist on either side of the opening and then install these 2x12's. Now I'm looking at it and I'm not sure how I'm going to tie in the strong backs since they are sitting on 2x6 in the rest of the ceiling.

tony.g 04-20-2013 05:02 PM

1 Attachment(s)
From the attic, does your structure look something like this? (Yes,I know its a scrappy sketch!).
If so, just fill in the gap with 2x6s on joist hangers. They're shown in red going across the gap but on reflection it may be structurally better to run them parallel to the main ceiling joists.

kevinok 04-20-2013 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony.g (Post 1163704)
From the attic, does your structure look something like this? (Yes,I know its a scrappy sketch!).
If so, just fill in the gap with 2x6s on joist hangers. They're shown in red going across the gap but on reflection it may be structurally better to run them parallel to the main ceiling joists.

Yes! That's how it looks. Great to know I can finish that out with 2x6's... now I get to take back some 2x12's.
:thumbup:

kevinok 04-22-2013 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony.g (Post 1163704)
From the attic, does your structure look something like this? (Yes,I know its a scrappy sketch!).
If so, just fill in the gap with 2x6s on joist hangers. They're shown in red going across the gap but on reflection it may be structurally better to run them parallel to the main ceiling joists.

  1. That's not a scrappy sketch. Pretty darn good if you ask me.
  2. Why on joist hangers? Can I use an air nailer and shoot some nails in?
  3. Also, from your picture, in reality, the joist stringer on the left and right of the fireplace do not actually go from one full joist to the other. It stops at the second partial joist. Weird. I think this caused the front right corner to be about 1/2 inch lower than the other side. Is it okay to jack it up and sister it? If so, how long should the sister be? These joists are about 16 feet long.

jagans 04-22-2013 09:32 AM

Another great sketch Tony! Actually the long joists to the side of the boxed area should have originally been doubled, as should the headers, but if this is how its been for all these years, and the long joists did not set on the chimney, I would not worry about it.


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