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Old 06-19-2011, 07:36 AM   #16
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New Build: 1000s of Screw Pops & Excessive Seams - Please Help


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Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
By green lumber he means “wet”, not “kiln dried“. Were the wall studs composite?

Post some pictures if you can.

I will check on the green aspect of the lumber. Most of the wall studs were composite.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:52 AM   #17
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New Build: 1000s of Screw Pops & Excessive Seams - Please Help


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Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
By green lumber he means “wet”, not “kiln dried“. Were the wall studs composite?

Post some pictures if you can.
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Originally Posted by douganv View Post
I don't remember the lumber being green. I did take pictures during framing, so will have to go back and review them. You do mean the color of the lumber right?
ok... so green is wet... not color... so now you know how little I know about home construction.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:54 AM   #18
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New Build: 1000s of Screw Pops & Excessive Seams - Please Help


Back in the late 90's, there was a drywall shortage and plants around here were running 24/7. When I built my own house, the drywall was delivered before noon on a Thursday and the factory date-stamp on the drywall was after 3PM the Tuesday before.

The problem was, they were running at such a rate of production, the drywall was leaving the plant with a higher than normal moisture content. Mine was installed within a few days of being shipped and over time I had some areas that had a high occurrence of screw heads showing. My framing lumber had been open to air for at least 2 Summer months before insulation and drywall and was dry.

The only logic I can surmise is that as the moisture left the drywall, it had a very slight amount of shrinkage. It doesn't take much movement to pop the mud over screw heads.

There are several things that may be the cause of your problems.

The installer didn't have the screw gun set properly and the screws were under/over driven.

The screws missed or partially missed the framing members.

He didn't apply pressure when setting the screws and the drywall wasn't pulled tight to the framing. This is a common problem when glue is being used and they don't get the sheets set quickly enough after applying the glue.

As someone else mentioned, there could be some movement from wind shear that is racking the building, which is more likely a cause if glue wasn't used for sheetrock installation.

The moisture level in the house was, is, or fluxuates from very high levels to very low levels throughout the seasons.

As for composite lumber, that's a new one on me.

I've seen finger-jointed studs, engineered lumber and conventional framing lumber. Composite? I'll have to google that.

OK, Googled it. It seems composite is synonymous with engineered products.

If your builder used LSL, PSL, or Timberstrand studs in your house, I doubt they were less than double or triple the price of conventional lumber. Finger jointed studs may have been used, but I doubt they would lead to the issues you are having to be honest, nor would the other products I've mentioned.

http://www.ilevel.com/walls/

http://www.potlatchcorp.com/Pinnacle...ointStuds.aspx
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:02 AM   #19
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The lumber was "finger-jointed"... not composite. I thought they were the same thing. I googled finger-jointed and it looks like the lumber that was used. I am sure this confused all that posted.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:14 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by douganv View Post
The lumber was "finger-jointed"... not composite. I thought they were the same thing. I googled finger-jointed and it looks like the lumber that was used. I am sure this confused all that posted.
Just a difference in regional terminology is all. By definition, FJ studs would fall into the same category.

FJ studs are kiln dried before the jointing process, so that puts you ahead of the game compared to S-GRN lumber, which is surfaced with a high moisture content and shipped.

Unless the joints are failing, I don't see a particular problem with FJ studs.

Finger joints are extremely strong and the end product should have fewer defects than standard material.

Are the screw pops showing on all walls and ceilings? Are they limited to exterior walls only? Interior walls only? Ceilings only?
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:45 AM   #21
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The screw pops were all over the walls external and internal. We only noticed 1 screw pop on the ceiling. So the ceiling is not an issue. Joints are not failing. I seem to be narrowing in on the issue being a moisture in the framing issue. Maybe finger-jointed lumber holds more moisture than standard lumber. The summer that they did the framing and drywall was an abnormally cold and wet summer in Ohio.
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:13 PM   #22
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There are some lawsuits against Lowe's for some drywall issues............did you get your drywall from Lowe's?
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:32 PM   #23
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I just built my house last year and moved into it in November. I have real wood studs for interior walls and a lot of the exterior walls are the engineered wood. We have *some* screw pops, but I think that it may have been my fault.

One area is where I hung my TV. As I drove the TV mount into the wall, I must have compressed the drywall a little and the screws started popping out a little. Well, I don't think it was the screws, I think it was more the drywall compressing tighter because of the mount. The other area is near the bed. The bed is against the wall, and I think the wall may have pushed in a little, similar to how the mount was drawn tight against the studs. I've been meaning to move the bed away from the wall a little until we can get a bedroom set, but just haven't yet.

As for the screws popping near the engineered vs real wood. I don't think it makes a difference. I think that the pops were my fault and the wood wasn't a variable.

I don't know, but it might be something to check out...

Last edited by wiz561; 06-19-2011 at 06:33 PM. Reason: added real vs fake comment.
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:25 PM   #24
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"The summer that they did the framing and drywall was an abnormally cold and wet summer in Ohio." ------- could be the problem. The lumber got wet during install and drywalled/textured/taped without enough ventilation with the water going to the studs. The fastener length (as mentioned) is very important, pp 6-12: http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...711HulsBKUaB2g

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/sol...erfections.htm

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Old 02-22-2012, 11:48 PM   #25
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Hi Douganv
I just read your post and noticed that its been awhile since you mentioned anything about your screw pops. I was just wondering if you ever figured out what was the problem and if you have solved it? I to bought a new house and have been living in it since August 2010 and we are having the same problem with thousands of screws popping out the warranty company had someone come in and drive new screws one above and one below the popped one removed the old one and mudded and sanded and painted well now we have thousands of patches that you can see under two coats of paint plus as they were painting pressure from the roller was popping out nails around the repairs and everyday we wake up to atleast 2 or 3 new screw pops so when I complained about seeing all the patch work under the paint and new ones happening everyday they had another drywaller come in and he wants to find as many of the old screws as he can and put a skim coat of mud over the entire walls but I'm worried this is just a band aid solution because there is no way he can find every screw and I'm going to have the same problem with old screws popping out this has been a year and a half of frustration I think there still has to be something else going on behind the drywall. I am just wondering if you got anywhere and figured things out? Sorry for such a long post and hope you can respond
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:03 AM   #26
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New Build: 1000s of Screw Pops & Excessive Seams - Please Help


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Composite lumber could indeed be the culprit. I would like the OP's response to how green the framing lumber was when the house was built. I have seen doug fir eject drywall nails completely out as it dried and compressed in Northern California.
Just curious.... How's the OP going to know?
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:30 AM   #27
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Walters Forensic, Ontario CN, has an interesting article on screw pops in new housing. See http://www.waltersforensic.com/artic...g/vol6-no1.htm

They claim that most screw pops are caused by the simple mechanism of the stud or joist drying over time, therefore shrinking, causing a gap to open between the drywall and the stud. Lean on the drywall, you get a screw pop. Interesting read.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:43 AM   #28
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i agree with loneframer, the screwgun was not adjusted properly. another thing could be the insulation, if it was sprayfoam and not cut down properly it would be pushing the drywall out. and i'd guess your ceiling was blown in insulation so that could possibly be the reason why their isnt any on the ceiling.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:03 PM   #29
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another theory,, were the correct drywall screws used.. fine thread screws that are designed for steel stud dont have the same holding power in wood as course thread screws do

as for the chinese drywall theory,, my understanding is that the drywall is full of chemicals and other agents that are off gassing which is creating air quality problems. not screw pops i could be wrong though. i just remember fine homebuilding doing a write up about it 4 years ago or so in an update to the hurricane katrina aftermath.. with all the drywall required to rebuild new orleans the suppliers couldnt keep up, thus bringing it in from china
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:14 PM   #30
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There supost to keep there recepts for 7 years for the IRS.
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