theres more to properly installing harti plank correctly than just flashing butt joints with coil stock or strips of tyvek..
i see guys caulk the siding over top of windows and doors all the time... its suppposed to be left open so water can get out from behind the siding and doesnt sit on the cap flashing.....
its been that way for the last 15 years. its dumb contractors who think caulking the butt joints is the best thing it just look horrible in two years. 30 years ago we would flash the butt joints of wood siding with 30# felt just and going back and doing Hardi the 30# felt still is good.
locally theres quite a few companies putting harti plank and certainteed fibre cement on buildings.. only a handul of us that the manufacturer is actually honoring the warrenty because of how so few follow the install procedure
And you know the life of caulks is right? 5 years. That is right and how many squares of siding are you doing? I am right now doing 34 squares of siding that is over 3,500 sq feet of siding that is a lot of butt joints and in five years the home owner is going to need to caulk in five years and the paint has 20 years left? Were as flashing last how long? the life if the house. Caulking butt joints is a lazy mans wam bam thank you mam. way of doing it.
Not to mention the way it looks on Color Plus siding! Uck! I also understand that you should not butt a joint above a window or door correct? Wham bam nothin'! Not here, not me, not ever!
Okay...so I met with the siding supervisor today and all I can say is that he said he was leaving the meeting better educated about some practices he was not aware of. He requested copies that I printed from the James Hardie website and even though he says JH contradicts themselves, he still claims I have nothing to worry about even though they didn't use the JH installation method guide(s), he claimed that the company would honor anything that went wrong...(no flashing @ joints, caulked joints, etc.) as I explained to him, I as well as he could not tell me if and how long the company would be in business and because of the incorrect installation practices, I also would be out my JH warranty as well. Family owned businesses come and go without notice or recourse and I am not willing to take that chance.
He claims that he will "ponder" all that was discussed and will get back to me...you got it....NEXT WEEK! :whistling2:
A portion of that clip remains behind the siding, doesn't it? And if so, it would hold the siding up and off the wall by the thickness of the clip. How is this installed to manufacturer specifications when instructions state to install on a flat vertical wall only? Not challenging your technique, just curious.
As far as getting nice even reveals and level courses, these work well:
A portion of that clip remains behind the siding, doesn't it? And if so, it would hold the siding up and off the wall by the thickness of the clip. How is this installed to manufacturer specifications when instructions state to install on a flat vertical wall only?
As far as getting nice even reveals and level courses, these work well:
James Hardie's site states to install on flat vertical walls only. That is what they are installed on when using the clips. The clips do not change the pitch of the wall to a diagonal, slanted, vaulted, or angled wall.
There is nothing on Hardie that indicates, states, or intimates that these (or anything like them) cannot be used. The clips create drainage planes and also allow ventilation.
The clips do not damage the material, nor do they penetrate, change its structure, or encourage deterioration.
Last, and most importantly, I have spoken to Hardie's Technical Dept personally and discussed the clips, which they are familiar with, and the answer was a definite: "No, those clips DO NOT affect our warranty".
Just a thought: It would be good to strive for a mutual respect for each other's professional trade-opinion (and make an honest effort to keep things professional & civil)......while attempting to stick to a "technical" related discussion.
There was quite a discussion when I first posted that Hardie link here about 1-1/2 years ago also.....
Actually, you are both correct- from the link:
"Joint-flashing material must be durable, waterproof materials that do not
react with cement products. Examples of suitable material include finished
coil stock and code compliant water-resistive barriers. Other products may
also be suitable."
Though when "push comes to shove" for a warranty (with lawyers involved)- I would personally go with a "waterproof" material which supersedes a WRB like felt or builders paper which are variable water permeable at 5 perms dry to 60 perms wet. The asphalt coating all but disappears (behind T1-11) after 30 years on the older 15# paper I find in remodels.
just keep the scraps of aluminum cladding for just this or left over peices of blueskin or vycor. great way to use it up and not have to toss it
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