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-   -   Need to Patch Holes on Newly Skimcoated Wall: Use Tape? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/need-patch-holes-newly-skimcoated-wall-use-tape-58458/)

Lovegasoline 12-03-2009 06:58 PM

Need to Patch Holes on Newly Skimcoated Wall: Use Tape?
 
I have a plaster/lathe wall that was just skim coated with joint compound plus a bit of plaster of Paris mixed in. The wall was primed.

Iíve had to go back and make a few cutouts down to the wood lathing, about 10Ē x 3Ē or so. Iím in the process of patching them by screwing in sheetrock plugs to fill most of the space, then Iíll fill the gaps/surface with the little bit of Durabond I have left and when thatís depleated, I have a bag of Easysand. When itís mostly filled in, Iíll blend the surface and skim the immediate area with green label pre mixed joint compound.

Question:
Should I be applying tape to these patches? IF yes, is it best to do so at the Easysand stage? Use mesh tape or paper?
If tape isnít necessary Iíd prefer to not use it, as some patched areas are pretty close to molding and I do not want to have to build up the surface so as to bury the tape. However, if cracks are likely without using tape, then by all means Iíll use it.

Thoughts?

Paulie 12-03-2009 07:29 PM

I can only tell ya how I was taught. Use the brown bag (durabond) and fill in all the gaps between the drywall patch and plaster. When that's set up use the mesh tape on the seams. Then proceed to cover with easy sand and float. If you do not fill those inevitable gaps first the wet mud will sag with the mesh. :thumbsup:

chrisn 12-04-2009 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paulie (Post 360864)
I can only tell ya how I was taught. Use the brown bag (durabond) and fill in all the gaps between the drywall patch and plaster. When that's set up use the mesh tape on the seams. Then proceed to cover with easy sand and float. If you do not fill those inevitable gaps first the wet mud will sag with the mesh. :thumbsup:


That is how I would do it also.

Lovegasoline 12-05-2009 10:04 AM

Thanks, I'll get some more Durabond.

BTW, you are floating with Easysand, and not bothering to use regular joint compound at all? Are the two pretty much interchangeable in function, or is it best to use regular JC at the float stage (is it easier to sand than Easysand?).

Paulie 12-05-2009 05:12 PM

Personally I use 20min to fill the differences in height or "float" being sure not to put to much on at once then once I get it where I want it I skim it "tight" with bucket mud. The bucket mud is only to fill in any small defects, air bubbles or small defects. So when you go to sand it's easier. :whistling2:

user1007 12-06-2009 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 361009)
That is how I would do it also.

Me too. And I would never mix plaster and hot mud drywall compound together for future reference. Use one or the other.

concubgen 12-06-2009 03:31 AM

The bucket mud is only to fill in any small defects, air bubbles or small defects. So when you go to sand it's easier.
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