||03-06-2013 12:09 PM
Originally Posted by kwikfishron
+1 except it should be flush with the interior "finished" wall (Sheetrock or whatever).
Crankcase... if you don't move the door in it won't be able to open much more than 90 deg. making it real easy for someone to rip the door off the hinges. :huh:
Good point. I would think I would remove all foam on the jam sides, then throw up some VB and Tapcon treated 3/4 or treated ply attached to the block flush with the interior finished wall. Then add extensions to the exterior side.
I think the door bottom is just sitting on concrete should I just caulk or use a sill seal at all? The basement floor is heated, I dont think there is a thermal break. just a cold joint at the stair bottom I wont know till I pull out the door.