Need To Build 10' Beam, Specs??? - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

 DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum Need to build 10' beam, specs???
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01-02-2007, 08:57 AM   #1
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## Need to build 10' beam, specs???

Hi everyone! In preparations for tile, I've finished several support walls in part of my basement, the ones under the kitchen/pantry part of a hallway. I've also finsihed sistering about 80% of the floor joists that I need to. I am now to an area in the basement where the two previous solutions I've used will either severly intrude on the dynamics of the basement (another wall) or be near impossible to install (sistering joists.) So I need to build a beam.

The beam shall be 10' in length, Height and width will be whatever they need to be. It will be supported with two posts (material yet to be determined) at the 1' and 9' marks more or less.

The purpose of the beam is to reduce the span of the joists from 12' to 9'.
Current joists system is 2x10's 12' long 16 O.C. It's also a bathroom floor....the area i want to help support.

So would something like 3 2x12's with 2 pieces of plywood, glued an nailed sufice?

Once in place, I'll probably jack the sucker up a tad to slide my posts in place.

01-02-2007, 09:30 AM   #2
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Why would you need a beam under 2x10's that span 12'?

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Joe Carola

 01-02-2007, 09:35 AM #3 Member   Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 220 Rewards Points: 150 Well, according to calculations to determine deflection in the floor, i'm currently at L558, but I'd like it to be higher, shortning the unsupported span would bring me up to L1083, good enough for natural stone. I don't want to lay over 700sq. feet of tile and then have a spot where it cracks..... I don't have a picture, but the two post supporting the beams will double as corner posts for a future U shapped bar in basement....

 01-03-2007, 06:53 AM #4 Member   Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 48 Rewards Points: 25 Three 2x12 southern yellow pine, sandwiched with 1/2 inch ply would be more than plenty. Nail from both sides (meaning nail one sandwich together, flip the header over, nail the 3rd ply.) using 16d galvanized ring shanks, a 4 nail vertical line per lineal foot. Since yellow pine is very strong, but seldom very straight, I usually need to compress the plys with a sledge hammer. Lay the header flat on a hard surface and pound it with moderate blows until the plys are tight
 01-04-2007, 05:41 PM #5 Member   Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Boston Posts: 129 Rewards Points: 75 see below Last edited by mighty anvil; 01-04-2007 at 09:59 PM.
 01-04-2007, 07:54 PM #6 Member   Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Boston Posts: 129 Rewards Points: 75 You are not thinking about this the right way. The beams proposed are much larger than needed. What criteria are you using for deflection? Last edited by mighty anvil; 01-04-2007 at 08:28 PM.
01-08-2007, 08:11 AM   #8
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Hi, thanks for your responses. I built a 2x10 beam to use over the weekend prior to reading your response. I don't know how to look up, or where, load ratings etc. for beams, so I was just throwing out possibilites hoping someone would provide an answer. I was using a Defection calculator from another website to determine initially if my floors were "strong" enough. Unfortunately when I typed 12' it should have been 14' which might clarify why I want to increase the floor strength.

Unfortuantely it will be impossible to place the beam in the middle of the support, although I think I understand the point you were trying to convey. The beam will be placed underneath the doorway leading into the bathroom.

I am now trying to determine whether I need 4x4's or 6x6's to use as posts, they will be placed approx. 8' apart, so that shortens the span and increase the beam deflection i would imagine.

This is the current bathroom upstairs.

Original construction, tile over subfloor! You can't see it but it's got a crack running down the middle of the floor. It has a full tub, but I think we are going to install a larger, i.e. longer tub.

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