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Old 07-11-2012, 02:07 PM   #16
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My First Bathroom Renovation...Help Needed!


Looks good to me.. You ever get around to checking the span of those joists? What are those 2x8's or 2x10's? I'd personally double check the span of those joists while you got it all open, as sistering in a joist now would obviously be the easiest time if needed. Here's a link to the online deflection calculator: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl

Regarding the unsupported sheets at the edges.. you could put some blocking around the sides if it doesn't feel very secure and it'd give a solid point to screw the plywood subfloor into on the edges.

Regarding the Dremel multitool/oscillating tools.. I definitely wouldn't be using one to do any serious cutting. Like you said, they'd be too slow. I find mine very handy when trying to make nice clean cuts through drywall, and little finish type work (like trimming/cutting into molding/etc and other little finicky cuts that would've been a huge pita otherwise).


Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 07-11-2012 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by NewHomeDIYGuy View Post
Looks good to me.. You ever get around to checking the span of those joists? What are those 2x8's or 2x10's? I'd personally double check the span of those joists while you got it all open, as sistering in a joist now would obviously be the easiest time if needed. Here's a link to the online deflection calculator: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl

Regarding the unsupported sheets at the edges.. you could put some blocking around the sides if it doesn't feel very secure and it'd give a solid point to screw the plywood subfloor into on the edges.

Regarding the Dremel multitool/oscillating tools.. I definitely wouldn't be using one to do any serious cutting. Like you said, they'd be too slow. I find mine very handy when trying to make nice clean cuts through drywall, and little finish type work (like trimming/cutting into molding/etc and other little finicky cuts that would've been a huge pita otherwise).
Thank you for the calculator link. I passed the test, but have reinforced some of the joists just to be safe. I'm about to make the cuts for the second half of the floor. I'll have pics up shortly!
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:22 PM   #18
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My First Bathroom Renovation...Help Needed!


Day 5 update: I added the second peice of the 3 peice floor. You can see in the picture that I reinforced the area where the third peice will go. 5 days to lay a subfloor. Soooo at this course I'm on par to finish the project in about 6 months Tomorrow morning I'll post a piture of the finished subfloor. I also cut the hole for the toilet flange which I'll show as well. Ok I've been working 11 hours so it's time to sleep so I can wake up and get back at it!
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:56 PM   #19
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My First Bathroom Renovation...Help Needed!


Update: Sorry I've been MIA the past few days. I have been quite busy since then. I have reinforced the floor, finished the subfloor, I installed the tub and now I am installed the backerboard to the walls. I intend to tile the shower, floor, and bottom 4 feet of the bathroom. Everything seems to be going well so far. After I finish the walls, I will install a new tub/shower mixing valve, so I'll let you know how my first soldering job goes...

Does anyone have any comments/questions/advice? Here are some pics ~
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:27 AM   #20
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Looks good to me, perhaps someone else can chime in with suggestions/comments. Regarding sweating copper, there's def not much to it, just dry to drain any water out of the pipes where you'll be sweating the connections, otherwise old connections may be incredibly stubborn to let go (as the water cools the solder), and even then, it can be a pita to break old joints. I always hate trying to break old joints, but perhaps someone can give pointers for that. New connections generally or no problem, just clean the points, apply plenty of flux, heat and solder and you're good to go. Of course, make sure to test the connections BEFORE closing up walls/etc.

Good luck, looks good!
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:16 PM   #21
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My First Bathroom Renovation...Help Needed!


Day 12 Update: I am pretty much ready to begin tiling. All I have left to do is solder some copper for the tubing to the tub/shower valve but I will do that tomorrow. Today I finished the floor (3/4" AdvanTech subfloor, Thinset, 1/2" Hardiboard) and mortared/taped all the gaps between the boards.

What do I do about where the wall meets the ceiling? How do I handle that?

Also, do I need to thinset the gaps between the boards on the walls around the bathroom, or will the tape I laid on it today and the thinset I lay when I tile be sufficient to handle that? (yes I am tired of filling in gaps with thinset)

FYI to anyone as dumb as I am: Don't rub the thinset in the gaps with your bare hand. It will cut your fingers all up and sting for the next few hours. Yes. I did that

Here are some pics. What do yall think?
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:39 PM   #22
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Day 15 Update:

I just finished soldering in the new valve assembly to the shower/tub. I am finally onto the tiling phase. What do you all think?
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:15 PM   #23
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I need a little advice on something that just came up. When I put pressure on the front of the tub it kind of pops. I know there are a few threads on this, but I feel like my situation is unique because I used thinset on the floor. The tub is acrylic and has a very hard, thick foam pad underneath it. Instead of pouring a pile of mortar on the floor, I spread it out like laying tile, leaving a very thin coating underneath the tub. I'm wondering, did I not use enough mortar which has left the tub unstable, or is that pop just the acrylic hitting the foam? HELP!!
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:25 PM   #24
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Looks good to me.. Sorry I don't have much advice/comments, and I'm not sure what to say regarding the tub. Hopefully someone chimes in w/ a solution. Just so I understand this, what exactly is popping? Which part exactly is the "front?"
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:33 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Day 15 Update:

I just finished soldering in the new valve assembly to the shower/tub. I am finally onto the tiling phase. What do you all think?
Look into shark bite couplers. They are priced high but save so much time verses soldering. They also can be used when the copper is wet. If you solder clean your parts super well and debur the cut ends.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:37 PM   #26
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Look into shark bite couplers. They are priced high but save so much time verses soldering. They also can be used when the copper is wet. If you solder clean your parts super well and debur the cut ends.
I now see you finished soldering already. I can hint to fill the tub when you grout or grout caulk the joint that meets the tub. This helps the grout joint not crack.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:43 PM   #27
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I now see you finished soldering already. I can hint to fill the tub when you grout or grout caulk the joint that meets the tub. This helps the grout joint not crack.
Thanks for the tip. The soldering went well. I'm kind of concerned about the pop noise though. It is in the front where the drain is. I hope the tub doesn't crack in the future...am I unnecessarily worrying about this?
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JadRutherford
I need a little advice on something that just came up. When I put pressure on the front of the tub it kind of pops. I know there are a few threads on this, but I feel like my situation is unique because I used thinset on the floor. The tub is acrylic and has a very hard, thick foam pad underneath it. Instead of pouring a pile of mortar on the floor, I spread it out like laying tile, leaving a very thin coating underneath the tub. I'm wondering, did I not use enough mortar which has left the tub unstable, or is that pop just the acrylic hitting the foam? HELP!!
One thing comes to mind with the tub. I have used expanding foam under tubs with the tight stirofoam bottom on them. My trick I came up with was using the outer shielding from some romex wire like a straw extension taped to the expanding foam straw. I took a lenghth of wire and taped that to the extension to give it rigidity, and pumped spay foam under the tub. It appears you can access it from the open wall on the valve side of the tub.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:46 PM   #29
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To specify, the pop occurs when I put a lot of pressure with one foot on the front corner of the tub. It really sounds like it is directly underneath the acrylic instead of under the foam padding. That's really the only thing that keeps me from worrying too much right now.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:49 AM   #30
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Do you have any bracing on those copper pipes? Maybe add a 2x4 block and tie the pipes to it to prevent hammering?

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