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-   -   Moving wall parallel to joists (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/moving-wall-parallel-joists-158216/)

Didymus21 09-27-2012 10:36 PM

Moving wall parallel to joists
 
I'm wanting to move a 42" non-load bearing shared wall about 5".

http://imageshack.us/a/img713/6660/p1030042k.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img713/6660/p1030042k.jpg

The wall is parallel to the ceiling joists and appears to be installed directly below a joist. When I went up into the attic, this is what I found:

http://imageshack.us/a/img580/8628/2...7200623489.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img580/8628/2...7200623489.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img822/3300/2...7200649153.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img822/3300/2...7200649153.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img38/8853/20120927200737185.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img38/8853/20120927200737185.jpg

As you can see the black pipe inside the wall goes directly through a joist (sloppy) so I'm sure this wall is built under the joist.

My question:

What are the sistered 2X4's doing up there? They aren't even attached to the joist, but have nails driven toward the inside of the room at their ends.

How do I secure the new wall to the ceiling in this situation? My original plan was to just install the top plate over the drywall on the inside of the room if that's OK.


Thanks for the help.

http://www.fbclick.com/wp-content/pl...t-im-doing.jpg

oh'mike 09-28-2012 04:38 AM

Those 'scabs' are just drywall nailers----before you build your new wall --add some blocking between the ceiling joists , so you have at least three solid places to nail in the new wall---

Your black pipe is an air vent for plumbing---when you move that --or modify it---make sure that you don't create any 'bellies' or low spots that can trap water and block the flow of air---

hand drive 09-28-2012 07:18 AM

The plumber was not having structural span capability thoughts when he cut that joist in half. You will need to fix the joist if moving the wall below the joist because the wall is holding up the joist and as Oh Mike mentioned, the 2x added next to the joist hold the drywall for the ceiling where it meets the wall on either side. It also looks like a Wall T stud in the wall...

oh'mike 09-28-2012 07:27 AM

Great catch---I hadn't paid that cut joist any attention----

Didymus21 09-28-2012 10:14 AM

Will sistering 2x6's on either side be sufficient for supporting the joist? How long should the sistered boards be? Nails ok or should I use through bolts.

I'm going to look up a T wall now.....

hand drive 09-28-2012 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Didymus21 (Post 1019181)
Will sistering 2x6's on either side be sufficient for supporting the joist? How long should the sistered boards be? Nails ok or should I use through bolts.

I'm going to look up a T wall now.....


the sistered joists should go from wall to wall, just like the joist that was cut goes wall to wall. A T is a triple stud that looks like a T located inside of the wall in your pic and it usually indicates that another wall lands against it from the opposite direction...

Didymus21 09-28-2012 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 1019216)
the sistered joists should go from wall to wall, just like the joist that was cut goes wall to wall. A T is a triple stud that looks like a T located inside of the wall in your pic and it usually indicates that another wall lands against it from the opposite direction...

Not sure that'd be possible. The joists run the span of the house (70's ranch style). I don't see how I could even begin to get a joist that size up into the attic.

mae-ling 09-28-2012 06:22 PM

http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/load-...emoval-157227/

Read this thread where he talks about bolting another one on the side

Didymus21 09-28-2012 06:28 PM

Thanks, Mae. That's what I was thinking would be the best approach.

hand drive 09-29-2012 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Didymus21 (Post 1019453)
Not sure that'd be possible. The joists run the span of the house (70's ranch style). I don't see how I could even begin to get a joist that size up into the attic.


I was thinking set the joist wall to wall in the pic you show, it looks to be about a 4' span between the walls.

Didymus21 10-01-2012 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 1019901)
I was thinking set the joist wall to wall in the pic you show, it looks to be about a 4' span between the walls.

I see what you are saying now. I've attached some pictures of what I've done.

The question now is do I need to worry about moving this wall as the spliced section will no longer be supported by a perpendicular wall, except for where it meets the hallway wall.

I set the pictures up as an album below

http://imgur.com/a/pAutl

hand drive 10-02-2012 08:12 AM

I just looked at the pics at the link you posted. You will need to take the splice joist over top of the shower door wall back to the other wall on the other side of the bathroom. The idea is to have the splice joist sitting atop of a wall to hold up the weight, ideally from the back wall of the shower across the room to the vanity side.

Didymus21 10-02-2012 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 1021862)
I just looked at the pics at the link you posted. You will need to take the splice joist over top of the shower door wall back to the other wall on the other side of the bathroom. The idea is to have the splice joist sitting atop of a wall to hold up the weight, ideally from the back wall of the shower across the room to the vanity side.

I'll see what I can do. Not sure I can access the wall on that side because it's such a tight fit under the eave of the house...not to mention the nails that protrude down from the roof in that area....

Didymus21 10-02-2012 12:36 PM

Yep...there is just no way for me to access that other exterior wall...plus there is a fan box in the way of running one of the 2X6 splices.

Here is another picture:

http://imageshack.us/a/img442/1269/2...2102509188.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img442/1269/2...2102509188.jpg

More information to work with. The section of joist you can see running to the exterior wall was able to be rocked back and forth by hand because it was so loose. It also doesn't appear to be tied into the roof joists in any way. Does this member provide ANY structural support, or is it just a beam for nailing drywall to?

hand drive 10-04-2012 08:18 AM

The new sister joist can go on the side that is open and does not have the fan blocking it. I'm not sure how else to have a solid and strong joist there without moving insulation out of the way and setting the joist across the span of the room onto the outer exterior wall top plate. The joist there now missed the rafter but looks to be on dimensional layout with the rest of the joists, it simply holds the ceiling drywall to the ceiling.


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