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Old 07-05-2010, 11:23 PM   #31
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moving a load bearing stud


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
1. What load is above the pieced rim? Another stairs/wall, or stairs/pickets?
2. What is the span of the soon-to-be-shortened-for hangered joists?
3. Are there any point loads on those joists?

Be safe, Gary
1) There are no other loads. Just a rail that keeps you from falling off the 2nd floor (it's open, used a den right now.) I do plan on putting a wall there later on to close the area off, but of course it won't be load bearing at all.

2) 14 feet.

3) Not too sure what you mean, but if it's what it sounds like, the the answer is no. The joists are currently holding up my computer desk and part of my bed, as well as a small closet. There aren't any bearing structures sitting on future hangered joists.

Also, before I forget, in case I have a hard time finding 2x6 rough cut hangers tomorrow, would face-nailing 3 16D nails, through the header joist into the 2x6 joists, be ok for temp use until hangers are installed? Just in case. I'm guessing that's how their held up now, on a hacked together header joist at that.

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Old 07-06-2010, 04:15 PM   #32
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moving a load bearing stud


Well took a shot in the dark. Are you guys ready to see what was _really_ holding up my floor, after we removed the trim (the 2x4 is the temp support)?





My grandfather showed me a lot of things, and we put together a double 2x8 spruce-fir header. Attached joist hangers, added some profanity during the whole ordeal, and voila, this is what we have now:



For now I'm just letting the joists rest in the hangers. Ill attach them to the hangers after they settle in. One more disaster avoided!

Last edited by Tonglebeak; 07-06-2010 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:48 PM   #33
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moving a load bearing stud


So the car-decking sub-flooring was carrying the weight of the one floor joist with the 8-10d finish nail still in it? (And the one 20d nailed through the side into the blocking....) SWEET! Thanks for the picture. Add a positive metal tie at the built-up beam/last joist and be all set. (May not be required without permit, along with post and footing, considering the car-decking for shear flow....) Glad we could help!

Be safe, Gary
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:05 PM   #34
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moving a load bearing stud


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
So the car-decking sub-flooring was carrying the weight of the one floor joist with the 8-10d finish nail still in it? (And the one 20d nailed through the side into the blocking....) SWEET! Thanks for the picture. Add a positive metal tie at the built-up beam/last joist and be all set. (May not be required without permit, along with post and footing, considering the car-decking for shear flow....) Glad we could help!

Be safe, Gary
Thanks again. That blocking was the header joist, and another joist was tied onto that! So yes my car-decking (what is that lol) was holding up two floor joists or something. i don't know what else would've held it up.

On a side note, I learned a valuable lesson: steel wood=sawzall blade graveyard. GRRR

It's amazing though: this all went from "drywall looks like crap" to "I wanna open this up" to "wtf"

Last edited by Tonglebeak; 07-06-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 07-07-2010, 01:32 PM   #35
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moving a load bearing stud


Glad we could help.

Car decking: http://books.google.com/books?id=DGs...ecking&f=false

I think it started for railroad cars, possibly.

Be safe, Gary

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