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Old 01-18-2010, 04:41 PM   #16
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More unfinshed Bonus room over Garage?s


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Insulate the floor area behind the knee wall also.

The storage area is leaving lots of cold(no insulation to stop the heat transfer) get into the space between the insulation and the rooms floor.

I would drop the ceiling.


But. You said its a theater room. Then it should have its own heating and cooling system. And not be conditioned by the central unit. Unless the central unit is zoned. And that room has its own thermostat.
I have R-11 in the floor of the storage area now, I'll have to put more in there now that I know I need more. The Theater room will get it's own thermostat as soon as I button up all the problems, I don't need that room running my heat/air all day long. If I tear out the garage ceiling to seal up the rim joists, I can put more insulation in the storage area floor.
I wonder which would yeild better results: Sealing the area behind the knee wall or ripping the garage ceiling down, pushing insulation up to floor above and sealing rim joists?

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Old 01-18-2010, 04:46 PM   #17
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More unfinshed Bonus room over Garage?s


Insulation against floor.
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:01 PM   #18
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More unfinshed Bonus room over Garage?s


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Insulation against floor.
Thanks, that's what I figured...Sounds like I will have a fun-filled couple days off in the next few weeks.
One more question, after I rip this ceiling down, should I put something on the bottom of the bonus room floor before I put the insulation up against it?
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:05 PM   #19
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More unfinshed Bonus room over Garage?s


Somewhat too late now.

A vapor barrier before the floor was laid would have been nice.
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Old 01-21-2010, 05:57 PM   #20
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More unfinshed Bonus room over Garage?s


I would insulate the knee walls with your required R-20. With batts and rigid foam boards in attic side for an air seal, RUNNING them down in the floor joist space. This blocks the air from the attic/soffit vents getting into the floor trusses under the knee wall. You don't want edge blow at the soffits or at the slope/wall joint (top of wall) into the room's ceiling:http://www.simplesavings.coop/simple...ee%20walls.pdf
http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...95/950309.html
Your insulation requirements are probably met by the builder, though it should have been pushed tight to the sub-floor without an air gap. Zip code 290, you don't require a vapor barrier/retarder: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/...on/ins_16.html

Hot and humid climate: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CAoQ9QEwAA

Your heating dollars go to walls-21%, floor- 6% No vapor barrier/retarder is required, hence the unfaced in the floor- correct. Try the suggestions listed, before you drop the whole ceiling. If not warm enough, drop 2' wide ceiling perimeter in garage for rim foam board and air seal. When all done, paint a v.b. primer (0.45 perms) on the garage ceiling to stop moisture off the cars from reaching the floor above.

Be safe, Gary

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