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Old 07-06-2011, 09:22 PM   #16
Mold!! Let's kill it!
 
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


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Originally Posted by ccarlisle View Post
Hmmm. We use a modified 10% bleach - but not on porous surfaces. I think that's where the thinking is going. Someone explained that moulds penetrate deep enough into porous surfaces to hide from topically applied rapid-kill solutions like bleach.
I agree. Deeply embedded mold colonies will be all but impossible to remove completely from a porous material. If a fungicide won't penetrate deep enough to kill them, then the only alternative is complete removal of the affected material, however, it is usually not practical, nor necessary to remove wooden components that are otherwise intact. Hence the reason why a sealer should be applied. 10% bleach will kill just about everything out there including viruses, which are tougher than molds. Clean by whatever method is most effective. Scrub, sand, blast clean. All are effective for removal. Some are better suited than others for a particular application. Disinfect to the best extent possible and then seal to lock down any stray fragments. It ain't rocket science and properly done is totally effective....... provided that the moisture that allowed the mold to thrive is brought under control. Ozone generation has just not been borne out as a sound method for mold remediation....... unless you are the guy selling the machines

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Old 12-27-2011, 01:04 AM   #17
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


My suggestion is going for Vinegar as well as Green tea Sapling oil which can remove mold with less hazard. Try for that. Good luck.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:17 AM   #18
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


See: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16159635 for:
Aerosolized sodium hypochlorite inhibits viability and allergenicity of mold on building materials.
J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2005 Sep;116(3):630-5.
Aerosolized sodium hypochlorite inhibits viability and allergenicity of mold on building materials.

Martyny JW, Harbeck RJ, Pacheco K, Barker EA, Sills M, Silveira L, Arbuckle S, Newman L.
Source

National Jewish Medical and Research Center, Denver, CO 80206, USA. martynyj@njc.org

Abstract

BACKGROUND:

Commercial and residential buildings can become contaminated with molds, which may trigger allergic disorders. Mold remediation efforts may require costly replacement of mold-contaminated building materials. Disinfectants that contain dilute sodium hypochlorite can kill mold and are practical to use. Whether they also inhibit mold allergy symptoms is unknown.
OBJECTIVE:

We tested the hypothesis that sodium hypochlorite-containing spray products kill Aspergillus fumigatus and inhibit A fumigatus allergens.
METHODS:

A fumigatus was grown on 3 common building construction materials, as well as in solution by conventional laboratory methods. Two sodium hypochlorite-containing household products (diluted bleach and Tilex) were sprayed on the mold-contaminated materials or added to mold in solution and compared with untreated controls. Surface mold and associated debris were mechanically removed from treated and untreated boards. Conidia in the extracted board materials were quantified by light microscopy, examined for morphologic changes by scanning electron microscopy, and cultured for viable mold. Extracts were tested for A fumigatus antigen by ELISA, and for A fumigatus allergen by skin prick testing using extracts prepared from both the boards and the cultured solutions.
RESULTS:

Both sodium hypochlorite disinfectants killed A fumigatus in solution and on mold-contaminated building materials. Light microscopy and scanning electron microscopy demonstrated changes to the conidial surface. Both dilute bleach and Tilex inhibited A fumigatus recognition by ELISA. Skin testing supported the results of the ELISAs and demonstrated loss of skin test reactivity to the sodium hypochlorite-treated mold solutions in most of the subjects. Of the 4 individuals who had a positive skin test result to mold grown on oriented strand board building material, 3 no longer reacted to extracts from bleach-treated boards.
CONCLUSION:

Spray application of sodium hypochlorite-containing disinfectants onto mold-contaminated building material kills A fumigatus, modifies the surface characteristics of A fumigatus conidia, reduces recognition of A fumigatus mold by ELISA, and results in loss of skin test reactivity to the treated mold in individuals allergic to A fumigatus.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:49 AM   #19
Mold!! Let's kill it!
 
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


Green tea sapling oil................... First I've heard of that one. I often wonder why people want to make mold killing harder than it needs to be.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:59 AM   #20
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You need to get into the porous materials, as said bleach won't do it. Use MoldStat instead, it is EPA Registered, kills molds and disinfects.



You can "fog" the house, or apply it to the surface.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:29 PM   #21
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


That same thing happened to me once. I sprayed all the wood with warm water and as much borax as the water would hold in solution with a garden sprayer. I didn't scrub anything. I waited a few more months before insulating and drywalling, and by the time the wood was dry again (at the end of the following summer) there was no mold in sight. The wood in the attic is still exposed, and it doesn't have any mold either after all these years.
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:43 PM   #22
Mold!! Let's kill it!
 
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


Quote:
Originally Posted by AandPDan View Post
You need to get into the porous materials, as said bleach won't do it. Use MoldStat instead, it is EPA Registered, kills molds and disinfects.

http://www.cleanertoday.com/mold-kil...Fcfe4AodOF68OQ

You can "fog" the house, or apply it to the surface.
Goody!! Another magic mold killer site. You need to know a lot more about mold and then read between the lines on this one. There is so much BS on that site, I had to read it twice to absorb it all. Wonder why they don't publish their EPA registration number. They seem pretty proud of it. Wonder why there is no MSDS sheet for the stuff.

Boron compounds are mold inhibitors, so yes borax will prevent reoccurances up to a point. Borates are easiliy leached away if moisture content gets too high though.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:23 PM   #23
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


Glad to see this thread on mold, maybe someone can point me in the right direction. I am rehabbing a row home in philadelphia that is about 80 yrs old. The basement has a dirt floor and currently is holding moisture. The floor joists in the basement do have mold on them. I plan on using borax to kill the mold and then sealing the wood with killz. My issue is getting all the moisture out of the basement. I don't have the money to poor a concrete floor down there but someone told me about a vapor barrier. 6 mil plastic over all the dirt, apply a layer of fine stone, then another layer of 6 mil plastic. My worries are that even if I kill all the mold with the borax and seal the wood that the mold still might linger due to the moisture that is in the basement. Does anyone have any insight to this?
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:51 PM   #24
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


You might consider adding a dehumidifier to keep the humidity levels down below 30-60% relative humidity, if needed.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:55 PM   #25
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


the only problem with that is that they need to be emptied. I can't expect the tenant to empty it
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:04 PM   #26
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


Get a condensate pump or set up a floor drain for it. They won't have to empty it.

Some models have them built in. $$$
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:06 PM   #27
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


I'm going to have to explore my options. Its only confined to one area so I'm thinking if I kill and seal the area I should be fine until I get a floor poured
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:33 PM   #28
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


The standard vapor barrier in crawlspaces is one layer of 10 mil plastic, and that's enough to keep them mold-free if they are also ventilated.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:52 PM   #29
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Mold problem after unfinished house was closed in for the winter...


Well with it being a basement there isn't much ventilation... I hope this isn't going to be an on going issue

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