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SchoolDaGeek 08-20-2011 02:12 AM

Mobile Home Platform frame subfloor
 
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Hello All,

We have suffered a lengthy failure of our water heater (due to no drain or pan and linoleum stretching far into the bedroom and closet under the carpet) to the point where our sub-floor has given way all the way through the exterior wall to the platform frame bottom joist. I can chip away the soaked MDF all the way through to where it reaches the compression of the frame, but I would like to chip out the area of compression to be able to put the new sub-floor in all the way.

Yes there is extensive mold and I am dealing with it with all the common precautions as well as using Shockwave on the lumber.

I realize that this is really not a DIY project but I have to exhaust my own options as much as possible at least in demolition before I get a contractor in.

What would be the best way to separate the platform frame sub-floor from the exterior wall? It runs at least 14 feet, from the laundry area to nearly the end of the closet. I am thinking two steel shores (screw type) to use either on both ends of the entire span, or just do one piece at a time starting in the center. Also was considering saving money by using bottle jacks since I will never be in danger by them losing air from one day to the next. I would think I only need the slightest of margins to slip the new subfloor under the frame, maybe a half inch.

What do you all think or recommend?

RetiredRGM 09-09-2011 07:07 PM

What I would recommend is to

measure perpendicular form the outside wall two feet minus wall thickness.
Make mark

Repeat above

Snap a chalk line between marks. This is your cutline which runs perrall to your outside wall
Remove the floor inside inside the cutline leaving the two foot sections alone for now.

Install full length blocking between floor joists every 24"
Replace sub floor with glue and screw schedule.

Now build a temp wall on top of the new subfloor rite at the cutline.

If needed brace between truss chords.

Cut and remove outside wall, and all damage.

Block as above, cut wood wider than two feet. glue and screw as per schedule. Snap a line and cut to fit.

Reinsert old wall, or rebuild new. Remove temp wall, and move to next section

Remove all walls to replace subfloor being cure to block, gue and screw., then replace wall.

After all complete install under-lament.

Finish to designs

Knucklez 09-12-2011 08:40 PM

geee.. you make it sound so easy ;)

post pics of your progress and ask all your questions here!

SchoolDaGeek 09-23-2011 09:36 AM

Pictures to come later, am only taking about one per day...

What I ended up doing was cutting out the outside sheathing on the wall by 1 foot to get rid of the mold.

Then I had access to the 2x6 exterior wall studs. I took four long 3/8" carriage bolts and an 8 1/2 foot 2x4 and drilled through the 2x4 and 2x6 lengthwise on the 16" centers.

I then took a scissor jack from the car, used another cut 2x4 as a brace and put a solid cement paver stone under the jack. I jacked up the wall enough to see it move about a quarter of an inch or so along the length of the 2x4.

I then used a third 2x4 cut to exact length and pounded it in supporting the brace to the cement pad below (the jack and paver were on the grass to give room at a slight angle.

Finally, I took a long split piece of 2x4 (you can also cut one) as a wedge. The wedge would be pounded in and removed as needed, working down the outside wall. Sawzall with a two different bi-metal blades to cut through the subfloor connection top and bottom (glue and staples, occasional nail needed blade change to higher TPI then switch back) then used a large ball-peen hammer and 1x4 handheld piece as the "chisel" to pound the 3/4 rotted floor through. Used a spyder scraper blade on the reciprocating saw to clean joists of glue and particle board residue, pulled alot of rusty staples with channel locks.

Cleaned up, used Shockwave Fungicide on structural members affected by mold, laid new R-30 batting, and new 3/4 Plytanium placed from the inside pounded out with 2x4 and ball-peen into place, using the wedge again at the outside edge of each 48" section.

As of this writing still have two more pieces to lay, but have to notch out plumbing and other obstacles for precise fit.


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