Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-26-2012, 08:44 AM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Share |
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Inspector came out today and he said the ones close to the house don't need to goto the same depth of the foundation, just 24". I guess I'll stick with that and go from there. I'll move the footings 6 inches or so out so I'm next to the foundation drain.

NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2012, 08:41 AM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 43
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


You have to be the judge on the soil near your house. What the inspector was saying is technically they only need to be 24" deep. GBrackins is dead right that you run the risk of settling by not digging to undisturbed earth. Depending on the age and how well they back filled you could have very loose dirt in that area. If you put your footer on soft dirt then by the time you get the deck on it will start settling and that's bad. Code does not always cut it, that's where experience comes in to play, and GBrackins seems to have alot of it.

I would dig until you know you are hitting good solid earth, you know for a fact you are there if you go as deep as the original house footings.
SeanB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2012, 08:45 AM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB View Post
You have to be the judge on the soil near your house. What the inspector was saying is technically they only need to be 24" deep. GBrackins is dead right that you run the risk of settling by not digging to undisturbed earth. Depending on the age and how well they back filled you could have very loose dirt in that area. If you put your footer on soft dirt then by the time you get the deck on it will start settling and that's bad. Code does not always cut it, that's where experience comes in to play, and GBrackins seems to have alot of it.

I would dig until you know you are hitting good solid earth, you know for a fact you are there if you go as deep as the original house footings.
Gotcha Sean, thanks for the info. I dug them deeper yesterday (to 30+"), and the ground seems to be pretty solid (about as solid as the other footers). I also hit what looks to be parts of the side of the foundation in some spots (I didn't realize that the foundation extended out past the side walls of the house several feet). We'll see what the inspector says. Thanks for the help!
NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 03:54 PM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Ok, so the inspector made me go till I hit the foundation depth in a few spots (around 3' or so, some spots looks about 4'). So, should be good to go now. I'm using 3 80lb bags of concrete for each footing, should be good to go now. Thanks!
NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 05:33 PM   #20
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,811
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


NewHomeDIYGuy,

glad to hear you are making positive progress. the thing you have to remember about building codes is they are like a cookie recipe, sometimes you have to add something else to get what you're looking for, like the depth of footing when building next to an existing dwelling.

keep us posted! we enjoy hearing the progress, lets us know when our comments are correct or off the mark

Good luck!
__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to GBrackins For This Useful Post:
CoconutPete (08-03-2012)
Old 08-03-2012, 08:11 AM   #21
Coconut Pete's paella!
 
CoconutPete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC / Denmark
Posts: 1,317
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBrackins View Post
you have to remember about building codes is they are like a cookie recipe, sometimes you have to add something else to get what you're looking for
Haha. Totally awesome quote!!!
CoconutPete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 07:27 AM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Next question for you guys.. For the pressure treated ledger board, is it critical that it absolutely isn't touching aluminum siding at all? The guy who's installed the ledger board has the bottom of the ledger board touching the front side of the siding, is that ok or will some kind of membrane/material be need to be put in between to prevent problems? The aluminum siding looks to be colored/coated, and was just wondering if that was enough to prevent any corrosion problems.

Edit: To add, the wood appears to be MCA (micronized copper) treated wood rather than ACQ, so direct contact w/ the siding should be ok. Man, I can't keep up with all the different types of PT wood and their compatibility these days.. Thanks!

Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 08-16-2012 at 11:21 AM.
NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 03:56 PM   #23
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,811
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


NewHomeDIYGuy,

check out this link for Grace's Vycor Deck Protector. http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/...24_Guide-A.pdf
__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2012, 02:59 PM   #24
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Ok next question for you guys.. Why does my local building code (based on 2009 IRC) for a deck not include details of attaching a railing post on the inside of a joist vs. the outside? Is all the same bracing really necessary if you attach the railing posts on the inside of the rim/outer joists vs. the outside? It would seem like an inside attachment would be stronger and wouldn't need all the same bracing an outside attachment would, but I know some bracing would be necessary.

For a post attached to the outside joists, do you just use blocking on both sides (2 pieces of blocking) of the post to connect the outside joist with the next inside joist? Does any specific hardware need to be used or can you just use nails? Also, for attaching a post to a rim joist, do you just install one piece of blocking between the two joists and run the through bolts through the blocking? If anyone has a link that shows the proper way to do blocking for inside post railing attachments I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

Edit: Looking at the 2009 IRC again, the code calls for basically blocking and L shaped brackets w/ through bolts for rim joists and end joists. Does that mean that they no longer approve blocking?

Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 09-02-2012 at 03:29 PM.
NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2012, 03:32 PM   #25
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,811
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


The Deck Construction Guide uses typical construction techniques, not all construction techniques. There are a multitude of ways to install guard posts. Typically guard post spacing and joist spacing does not work out so that a post will be at a joist. Of course you can design yours for that.

If you notice Figure 26 on page 16 (Section) it indicates a post attached to the rim joist, which would be similar for interior joists. The issue becomes when you apply the code requirement of 200 pounds live load at any point along the guard rail (using a 2-1/2:1 safety factor used in code) this becomes almost 2000 pounds of reaction at the bottom of the post. The post acts as a lever giving a mechanical advantage to the load. It was found through testing at Virginia Tech back in 2005 that typical attachment of posts to rim joists would cause a failure when the load was applied. This is a "method" of meeting code requirements in a prescriptive manner.

I myself prefer a joist on either side of the post and two through bolts to secure the post to the two joists. I do not attach guard posts to rim joists. I then use joist hangers to attach the joists to the ledger board, and Simpson H1 hurricane ties to attach the joists to a drop beam. and I space joists at 12" o.c. because of the use of composite decking. less deflection in deck boards. my attempt is to eliminate any rotation of the joists from loading applied to the guard rail or posts. side posts are attached to blocking on either side of the post and not to the outer joist, again 2 through bolts.

hope this helps
__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2012, 03:41 PM   #26
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Gary thanks for the explanation. I understand what I can do to stiffen things up and make them stronger, but not sure what's best/what will meet code. I guess I'll call the inspector and ask him. It seems like outside railing attachment is outlined and very clear, but inside not so much. If there's anything I've learned about construction, it seems there are many ways to do the same things correctly.
NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2012, 12:18 PM   #27
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


Ok, getting towards the end of this project (I'll add some pics later today), and surprise, have another question.. When building a landing for deck stairs at grade, is there anything I ought to keep in mind or do? It's currently just dirt. The plan was to pour a small slab 3' x 4', and from some googling it doesn't say much in terms of what to do and not to do. Some folks say pouring footers for a 3 or 4inch thick slab is unnecessary (they argue any heaving should be minimal and not really impact things), and some places say rebar vs. no rebar. Also, should I pour it and have it slightly above grade so as to help drainage off of it? Finally.. if I'm planning on installing a paver patio underneath the deck in the future, I guess there's not much I could do to compensate for that now.. I can just build the patio right around the slab? Thanks again for all the help guys!
NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2012, 12:28 PM   #28
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,811
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


If you are having the construction inspected by the town I would contact the building official and find out if you have a requirement for stairs landing on a permanent foundation. The IRC does not have a requirement, but I do know of areas that have amended the code to require it.

If not, I'd place at least a 4" thick concrete slab on top of compacted crushed stone base (remove top & subsoil), with the bottom of the slab level with your existing grade. Some welded wire mesh and maybe a couple of rebars for good measure would be nice.

Looking forward to your photos .....
__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2012, 12:38 PM   #29
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 334
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


GBrackins, Thanks for the response. Question for you.. why would you have the bottom of the slab be at grade, thus making the slab above grade? Is this to prevent the bottom of the stringers from being directly exposed to water and water run off from grade? The county details ask for 12" deep x 8" square footings for the stringers to rest on at grade, but says they can be poured as one slab. If I poured a 12" thick 3' x 4' slab, would I definitely need rebar? It's my understanding that rebar helps make the slab stronger, especially if it's a larger area (like 12 sq ft). I'll definitely be sure to have a bed of gravel for the slab to sit on to prevent dirt from eroding directly underneath it. Thanks!

Here are some older pics of the completed framing (minus the stairs).
Attached Thumbnails
Miscellaneous deck questions-20120821_182127.jpg   Miscellaneous deck questions-20120821_182121.jpg  

Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 09-05-2012 at 12:43 PM.
NewHomeDIYGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2012, 07:46 AM   #30
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,811
Default

Miscellaneous deck questions


for the reason you stated. you can always trowel a slight slope to the top of the slab so that they water runs off. rebar is always a good thing in concrete supporting loads. you will have (depending on stringer spacing) somewhere around 500-600 lbs of code imposed load for each stringer. If it were mine I'd use #4 at 12" o.c. each way, about 3" up from the bottom.

are you installing lateral bracing? See figure 22 on page 14 of the Deck Construction Guide. http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf Since you have a free standing deck they are required in both directions (see figure 21).

Be sure to post more photos. You'll certainly enjoy your deck once completed!

Good luck!

__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cedar deck help mickbiv Painting 11 08-08-2013 09:21 PM
Update on my deck rebuild...more questions... mgh-pa Building & Construction 6 07-01-2011 07:30 AM
Deck Staining thread but I am desperate- please help mickbiv Painting 3 09-08-2010 12:28 AM
some questions about ground level deck fabian Building & Construction 2 08-31-2010 07:24 AM
New deck staining questions sk8z Painting 7 11-14-2007 06:45 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.