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Old 12-05-2010, 02:14 PM   #1
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


How do you pros handle this?

Is there a way to disguise the drip caps over windows and doors? On my house they are not tightly wrapping the trim and flare out slightly. For all I know, a drip-cap is supposed to do that.

However they do look make the windows look a little less cleanly cut. The windows deeply under the front porch (with large overhang) are without caps and they look spectacular.
  1. Can the underside of them be caulked in? Seems like a dubious idea.
  2. Can they be gently bent over tight against the window trim?

Curious.


Last edited by tgm1024; 12-05-2010 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:37 PM   #2
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


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Originally Posted by tgm1024 View Post
How do you pros handle this?

Is there a way to disguise the drip caps over windows and doors? On my house they are not tightly wrapping the trim and flare out slightly. For all I know, a drip-cap is supposed to do that.

However they do look make the windows look a little less cleanly cut. The windows deeply under the front porch (with large overhang) are without caps and they look spectacular.
  1. Can the underside of them be caulked in? Seems like a dubious idea.
  2. Can they be gently bent over tight against the window trim?
Curious.
They should be bent tight, folded over on the sides and look as clean and sharp as the new window itself.

I wouldn’t caulk it unless you want to make the first mistake look worse.

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Old 12-05-2010, 02:44 PM   #3
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


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They should be bent tight, folded over on the sides and look as clean and sharp as the new window itself.

I wouldn’t caulk it unless you want to make the first mistake look worse.
  1. Interesting: what does it mean to be folded over on the sides? You mean notched somehow so a flap can bend over the left and right? The only drip caps I've ever seen are cut flush left and right. Or do you mean the obvious fold over the front?
  2. Also: It seems that my builder used the same dripcaps he used for the 1" thick window trim as he did for the 3/4" thick blocks under the lights. So those look like excessive overhangs.In both cases (particularly the ones with an extra 1/4") can I clamp the aluminum downward in any way acceptable after the fact? Any bending now that I can figure will always cause a flex-back somewhat.
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:58 PM   #4
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


The flashing I use goes up the wall 2” out and over the window or trim (whatever that number happens to be) and bent down the face 3/8” - ½”. Then cut the flashing long and fold over the ends so the ½” along the front continues around the sides back to the wall.

The extra ¼” your talking about is wrong. He should have had ¾” and 1” flashing on the job.
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Old 12-05-2010, 04:59 PM   #5
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


I agree. in the future, cap both right and left sides of header trim with the drip cap flashing. If that was not done, lift the the flashing and try to get a bit of silicone under there. Not too much because you dont want to "pitch" or puddle water back toward the siding. I know its not alot of water as that ledge is only 1 1/2" deep and most of the water will evaporate within 24hrs, but if you have continous rain the water will stand there for days.

Typical, or the most popular window trim thicknesses are 3/4" , 5/4" ( 1" ) and 1 1/2". There is available drip cap manufactured for all the stated thicknesses

Sounds as though he used 1 and a half drip cap for 5 quarter trim or 5 quarter for 3/4". Regardless, he sized up

Pounding it over will look as though... well... as if it was pounded over.

To do it correctly, the siding above the window will have... well, you know the rest
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:14 AM   #6
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


Ok, I'll need some help understanding the suggestions here. I have no doubt of your abilities, so don't misread this as a rant-style post please----I do trust that you all are right. I just don't want this being sent to off-topic unnecessarily, because I believe it to be a pretty usefully on-topic, or anyone getting defensive---it's not my intent.

I've gone over and over every possible scenario for cutting a drip-cap long and wrapping it around the top of a window and come up short in a couple critical ways.
  1. I can see how bending a carefully cut tab on (say) the right side so that it is bent downward would help in keeping the water from wicking sideways under the cap from the right edge to the left. But I am not sure where the win is in wrapping it from the front around to the back. Does it then flange under the siding to the right a small amount? If the corner is open anyway, doesn't the water have the same opportunity to pull under.
  2. Every drip-cap I see for sale is sold with a slight awning style flare out, maybe allowing the drip to fall outward just enough to prevent an backward and upward wicking(???). But I cannot find any that have the needed 90° crimp in it for sending the cap flat against the trim. That flare out puts a very visible shadow that ruins the look to me....hence my deep interest in this.
  3. I --am-- bugged by the 1" drip-cap used to cover the 3/4" blocks, but question: Did he do this because they better cover the place where the light fixtures meet the block---limiting leaks? And the other place was where the hose spigot comes out...is this something any of you do. I just don't think it looks right, as you all have pointed out.
THANKS AGAIN. I suppose some diagrams and pictures are gonna be needed here.
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:02 AM   #7
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


This is how I do it with the exception of fact that the wall side of the flashing goes behind the house wrap and not over like show in this Google picture. I also run a bead of caulk on top of the trim and seat the flashing into it.

The reason I do it like this is I want no chance of water blowing in under the flashing. On the Oregon Coast that’s a critical step but probably not necessary in a dry climate. I don’t buy my flashing off the shelf. I either have it bent up for me or bend it myself. You can’t achieve this detail using the store bought drip cap with the flared edge.

The oversized flashing your contractor used should function just fine. It just looks stupid in my opinion.
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:22 AM   #8
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


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This is how I do it with the exception of fact that the wall side of the flashing goes behind the house wrap and not over like show in this Google picture.
They couldn't. They're using the Zip system, but I totally see your meaning. That seems to be the consensus everywhere.

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I also run a bead of caulk on top of the trim and seat the flashing into it.

The reason I do it like this is I want no chance of water blowing in under the flashing. On the Oregon Coast that’s a critical step but probably not necessary in a dry climate. I don’t buy my flashing off the shelf. I either have it bent up for me or bend it myself. You can’t achieve this detail using the store bought drip cap with the flared edge.

The oversized flashing your contractor used should function just fine. It just looks stupid in my opinion.
I'm not psyched about it. I'm just wondering if there was a method to the madness---benefit of the doubt and all that. In general, he seems very mindful of his work.

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Old 12-06-2010, 11:40 AM   #9
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


I have no experience with the Zip System and I’ve never seen it used around here. As far as I can tell it’s just coated OSB with special tape. Hope it works out for you but you won’t find me using it any time soon.
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Old 12-06-2010, 02:49 PM   #10
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


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I have no experience with the Zip System and I’ve never seen it used around here. As far as I can tell it’s just coated OSB with special tape. Hope it works out for you but you won’t find me using it any time soon.
Actually I meant that the picture you posted was of the zip system, but yeah, my contractor was a total believer in it and used it. It's fairly new, so I applaud you holding out on it. It does seem to have at least a semi-immediate advantage over OSB: nothing can theoretically get behind the "tyvek"y thing...OSB seems to have the properties of a sponge, so a leakage behind the tyvek results in......well, MY [horrible] situation. That, and during construction the sheathing isn't exposed to whatever is going on. {shrug} You tell me if any of that matters.
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Old 12-06-2010, 04:10 PM   #11
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


[quote=tgm1024;546713]Actually I meant that the picture you posted was of the zip system quote]


Looks like Barrier House Wrap to me (another product I won’t use).

I have no comment on the Zip System.
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:32 PM   #12
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


Page #8: http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

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Old 12-06-2010, 10:51 PM   #13
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


I built a window flashing that is essentially the same as Kwikfishron, however I soldered the joint using 50/50 tin/lead solder rather than using silicone.
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:59 PM   #14
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


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Let me see if I get this right. (non-sarcastic tone) They want the ends of the windows to have a 1" high end dam on each side of the top flashing? I like the idea of the water having no where to go (but off the front), but doesn't that stick out like a sore thumb?

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Old 12-07-2010, 03:17 PM   #15
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Making the drip caps over windows look better


it is a tough detail to execute in most non masonary cladding

i like to use a projecting drip cap on most of my windows and doors
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