Cross posted from another forum. If this should be in "Crafts" rather than "B&C", apologies.
Thanks to anyone with the patience to respond, Im trying to cover all my questions, and am a total neophyte so am providing quite a bit of detail. If there is a resource where most/all of this is answered then Id appreciate a reference.
Ive read a lot of DIY concrete info (sometimes conflicting), and want to limit the chances of screwing up!
Here is the project: Basically a concrete slab, approx 28 w x 40 h x ? thick, poured with 1/2 PVC pipe embedded to deliver water pumped from a bowl to the top of the slab. The PVC will protrude from the slab slightly at the outlets, with tile fitted around the PVC outlets, and the slab will be ceramic tiled and framed with a molded concrete border tile. The bottom of the slab will be formed with a large gap (~ 9 inches high) to accomodate inserting a bowl to catch the water and the PVC input. The remaining area on the bottom will have "feet" out of the front only so it will stand with attachment. (it will be positioned against a wall so need for support to the back). Id like to pour the entire slab in one piece, not attach the feet later if possible. The entire project will sit on a rectangular concrete base.
Here are my questions: How thick does the slab need to be for sufficient strength but limit the weight? (I assume the recipe will include fiber reinforcement.) The couplings for the embedded PVC are probably a little more than an inch in outside diameter. Recipe suggestions for the slab and the block (if different) ? As light as possible that will accomplish the job. Its Southern California so freeze/thaw is not a concern, and the temperature during pouring in the 70s, relatively low humidity.
Depending on the thickness, the slab will be 2-3 cubic feet, the base around 9 cubic feet. They will be poured at different times (and maybe different recipes if recommended above). Will hand mixing in a large bucket work (in batches for the base), or do I need to rent wheelbarrow/mixer? I do have a paint mixer attachment to a hand drill if that would do the trick.
For the "feet" at the bottom of the slab, is rebar needed? L shaped? Rebar in the veritcal rise of the slab? Does there need to be some time for the bottom of the pour to harden before placing the PVC so the weight of the top of the pour doesnt push the PVC all the way to the bottom. Similar question on the rebar ( if rebar is needed).
Since this will be a wet environment any recommendations on cure/waterproofing sealer (that will allow for adhesion of thin-set for the tile)? Recommendations for the thin-set for the tiling? Grout? (must be white).
I assume wood is fine for the walls of the form but what about the 28 x 40 bottom? Will a wood bottom release after sufficient curing time or do I need to expect that to be permanent (and therefore need to use a higher quality wood/material) since it will bear all of the weight of the concrete during curing.
Recommendations for the release to be used? How do I know when the form should be removed? How critical is the timing for removal of the form? (Ie will watiing too long after it is sufficiently hardened result in difficult/impossible release?)
From what Ive read, waterproofing sealer/cures are best applied right after any bleed water is absorbed. After that I assume the project should be "bagged" for curing? I would add posts to the form to support the bag so it doesnt fall onto the slab, but how "tight" should the clearance be to recirculate the moisture for a good cure? And most importantly: what should I have asked and didnt!
Thanks again for reading if you made it this far!
Thanks to anyone with the patience to respond, Im trying to cover all my questions, and am a total neophyte so am providing quite a bit of detail. If there is a resource where most/all of this is answered then Id appreciate a reference.
Ive read a lot of DIY concrete info (sometimes conflicting), and want to limit the chances of screwing up!
Here is the project: Basically a concrete slab, approx 28 w x 40 h x ? thick, poured with 1/2 PVC pipe embedded to deliver water pumped from a bowl to the top of the slab. The PVC will protrude from the slab slightly at the outlets, with tile fitted around the PVC outlets, and the slab will be ceramic tiled and framed with a molded concrete border tile. The bottom of the slab will be formed with a large gap (~ 9 inches high) to accomodate inserting a bowl to catch the water and the PVC input. The remaining area on the bottom will have "feet" out of the front only so it will stand with attachment. (it will be positioned against a wall so need for support to the back). Id like to pour the entire slab in one piece, not attach the feet later if possible. The entire project will sit on a rectangular concrete base.
Here are my questions: How thick does the slab need to be for sufficient strength but limit the weight? (I assume the recipe will include fiber reinforcement.) The couplings for the embedded PVC are probably a little more than an inch in outside diameter. Recipe suggestions for the slab and the block (if different) ? As light as possible that will accomplish the job. Its Southern California so freeze/thaw is not a concern, and the temperature during pouring in the 70s, relatively low humidity.
Depending on the thickness, the slab will be 2-3 cubic feet, the base around 9 cubic feet. They will be poured at different times (and maybe different recipes if recommended above). Will hand mixing in a large bucket work (in batches for the base), or do I need to rent wheelbarrow/mixer? I do have a paint mixer attachment to a hand drill if that would do the trick.
For the "feet" at the bottom of the slab, is rebar needed? L shaped? Rebar in the veritcal rise of the slab? Does there need to be some time for the bottom of the pour to harden before placing the PVC so the weight of the top of the pour doesnt push the PVC all the way to the bottom. Similar question on the rebar ( if rebar is needed).
Since this will be a wet environment any recommendations on cure/waterproofing sealer (that will allow for adhesion of thin-set for the tile)? Recommendations for the thin-set for the tiling? Grout? (must be white).
I assume wood is fine for the walls of the form but what about the 28 x 40 bottom? Will a wood bottom release after sufficient curing time or do I need to expect that to be permanent (and therefore need to use a higher quality wood/material) since it will bear all of the weight of the concrete during curing.
Recommendations for the release to be used? How do I know when the form should be removed? How critical is the timing for removal of the form? (Ie will watiing too long after it is sufficiently hardened result in difficult/impossible release?)
From what Ive read, waterproofing sealer/cures are best applied right after any bleed water is absorbed. After that I assume the project should be "bagged" for curing? I would add posts to the form to support the bag so it doesnt fall onto the slab, but how "tight" should the clearance be to recirculate the moisture for a good cure? And most importantly: what should I have asked and didnt!
Thanks again for reading if you made it this far!