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Old 06-20-2012, 08:17 PM   #1
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Looking for feedback on deck framing


Hello all, I am a hardcore do it yourselfer and i have bit off a heck of a job this time. I am building a ~430 sqft Cumaru deck with octagon fire pit area with bench seating. So, below are the pictures of my framing which is 99% complete.

Couple of notes:
*I still have the steps to go which I am going to hold off on until close to last.
*My built in benches are not going to be exactly built in. Due to code enforcement I would have to have my railing be 36" above my benches which would equate to roughly ~50". I am going to build them and install on top of decking afterwards around the Octagon.

What I am really looking for is if I have any big issues that I need to resolve. I am going to tape my blocking areas to prevent water from rotting my framing. Once area with the blocking I am not too happy about are the corners. I have a picture below so if you know of a better way please speak up.

Here is the concept drawing. One note is I am doing a double picture frame border, not a single. Everything else is pretty close.








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Old 06-20-2012, 08:28 PM   #2
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Looking for feedback on deck framing


Also, I do have a permit, and have passed all inspections including the framing inspection. The guy didn't say a word, just walked around with a funny look on his face. He stared at the brackets holding my posts on. I doubt he has seen them.

I did bury my posts, which are 6x6 treated lumber about 3' deep. I have so many footers I am not all that worried about them rotting out in the next 25 years.

My girders are double 2x12's.
My joists are 2x10's.
My blocking is either 2x6 or 2x10 depending on what wood will be mounting on them. The center area going across is a 2x10 block where a 6" plank will sit in center and boards will butt against them at a 45 degree angle. That is why I went with the 2x10. I wanted to make sure they had a good seat. With taping I don't think water sitting will be an issue there.

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Old 06-20-2012, 08:38 PM   #3
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Looking for feedback on deck framing


From what I see you're doing a nice job ... like the holdown units on the guards. did you use holdowns to tie the deck into the house joists or just through bolts?

food for thought though, how far above the ground will the railing (at 36" above the deck) be? looks about like 6-feet. if you have small kids, or will have kids on your deck, or could have small kids on your deck they do like to stand on benches and jump up and down, with your railing only being about 17 inches above the bench seat it is very easy for them to fall over the railing. thus the code requirement.

knowing what the code requirements are and then choosing to ignore them not only opens you up to liability issues, but also serious injuries to those you may or may not love.

just my humble opinion, just don't want something unfortunate to happen and you say to yourself "why didn't I do it right?"

good luck with your project!
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:43 PM   #4
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Looks good to me. With a single boarder it takes a lot of wood double will look even better. I live in a dry climate and we use composite decking a lot. If you live in a wet place you may want to drill some weep holes between your rows of border. You'll need a hand rail down the stairs you may want to move that post.

That's going to look nice,
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:51 PM   #5
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lol, those are temporary stairs. The real stairs will go post to post plus about 2-3" on either side. I live in North Carolina, so not too wet of a climate. I have wondered about weep holes but have worried that will just give water a place to rot out the framing. Are there issues associated with doing weep holes or are they a good idea?

My deck is 29-31" off the ground. I technically could have move some more dirt around and been under the 30" requirement for railing all together.

I used the hold downs on the corner posts mounting the post to the ledger board. Everywhere else the ledger is a through bolt.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:56 PM   #6
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so then about 5-1/2 feet. just wanted to give you something to think about. codes are developed for a reason.

trying to keep you and yours happy and safe to enjoy your wonderful deck. as I said, food for thought ....

have a great summer!
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:57 PM   #7
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again, nice job!
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:13 PM   #8
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Don't think so, as long as things get a chance to dry out. What kind of tape do u use is it like vycor (window wrap) ?

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Old 06-20-2012, 10:32 PM   #9
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Looks like a great job.

My only comment would be with the center beam. It some jurisdiction it must be 4x or greater or double 2x construction. A 2x on each side of a post is not the same as a double 2x. This is particularly true for outer beams. The good news since the span on either side of center beam is the same each 2x is carrying 1/2 the load so it can carry the same load as a double 2x. Your outer beam appears to be double 2x
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tham View Post
Don't think so, as long as things get a chance to dry out. What kind of tape do u use is it like vycor (window wrap) ?

Tham


MFM deck wrap
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goosebarry View Post
Looks like a great job.

My only comment would be with the center beam. It some jurisdiction it must be 4x or greater or double 2x construction. A 2x on each side of a post is not the same as a double 2x. This is particularly true for outer beams. The good news since the span on either side of center beam is the same each 2x is carrying 1/2 the load so it can carry the same load as a double 2x. Your outer beam appears to be double 2x
Local code has it either way. I did the center beam first and notching both sides was too much, so I decided to notch one side and just double beam it. my post are 6' apart so i am good on load.

I had not really thought there was a difference in the two methods. Good to know for future work.
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:27 AM   #12
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A few points:

1. is it cedar or p.t. wood (or other), pp.2, #2;

2. the built-up beams require sandwiched tight (side-by-side) not air-space between to act as a double unit, Fig. 1, 2, 5, 7, and 8;

3. the support beams/post require 2 bolts each (hard to see in picture), Fig. 8;

4. the HD anchors require bolting to the blocking or joists, not into a rim joist as on your side deck (running) post, Fig. 25, 26;

5. the handrail post require 2 bolts each also (dark picture);

6. lag screw or through-bolts acceptable, with washers, Fig.19;

7. slope the ground (plastic sheeting optional) for water run-off not to breed mosquitoes, I cover beam tops with I&W, run a bead of caulking on the bottom face of ledger for drip edge to stop capillarity.

http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

Looks good!

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Old 06-21-2012, 12:56 AM   #13
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I should have taken alot closer look. Yeah your center beam isn't a beam unless you tie them together. You'll have to put blocks 16" or 24" o.c. and connect them. Usually our deck flashing is 5"x5" (on the ledger). And you'll have to connect the ledger with ledger loc screws or Lag bolts. Your hardware on the octagon looks a little light as well usually have a full size joist hanger on the 45's as well as the rest.

Tham

Oh yeah there's also a dog in there.

Last edited by Tham; 06-21-2012 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:29 AM   #14
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Notes in red

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
A few points:

1. is it cedar or p.t. wood (or other), pp.2, #2;
PTYP

2. the built-up beams require sandwiched tight (side-by-side) not air-space between to act as a double unit, Fig. 1, 2, 5, 7, and 8;
I'll go back and add some blocking inbetween the posts on the center girder.

3. the support beams/post require 2 bolts each (hard to see in picture), Fig. 8; My 6x6 beams are notched with 1 bolt through and screws.

4. the HD anchors require bolting to the blocking or joists, not into a rim joist as on your side deck (running) post, Fig. 25, 26; I did this like figure 26. They attached to the rim joist as well.

5. the handrail post require 2 bolts each also (dark picture); I have 2 bolts through from the outside, and 1 perpindicular through the blocking.

6. lag screw or through-bolts acceptable, with washers, Fig.19; hrmm...local code was 3' 6" on center with 5/8" through bolts. And then 12d nails every so many inches. In your opinion do you think this will be an issue?

7. slope the ground (plastic sheeting optional) for water run-off not to breed mosquitoes, I cover beam tops with I&W, run a bead of caulking on the bottom face of ledger for drip edge to stop capillarity. I am actually planning on doing this. I graded under the deck for run off but due to my being in a water shed area I cannot put down a non-permeable material. Stupid rules if you ask me. I am planning on putting down plastic after its complete and signed off on.

http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

Looks good!

Gary

Last edited by SeanB; 06-21-2012 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tham View Post
I should have taken alot closer look. Yeah your center beam isn't a beam unless you tie them together. You'll have to put blocks 16" or 24" o.c. and connect them. Usually our deck flashing is 5"x5" (on the ledger). And you'll have to connect the ledger with ledger loc screws or Lag bolts. Your hardware on the octagon looks a little light as well usually have a full size joist hanger on the 45's as well as the rest.

Tham

Oh yeah there's also a dog in there.
My flashing is 18" behind the ledger board, which is code. They don't require the front flashing believe it or not. I put it on there as I could see where water had penetrated behind the old ledger.

On the octogon, I used hardware where I could. All the beams mounting in the center have brackets. All the other angles you are seeing are actually 22.5 degrees. So I cut and screwed them all in. I added the extra brackets you are seeing where I couldn't get being the board to screw in at a 90. I wasn't real sure what to do so just screwed it best I could.

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