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-   -   Load Bearing (point Load) Wall Removal Advice (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/load-bearing-point-load-wall-removal-advice-84270/)

Stringer9 10-18-2010 06:20 PM

Load Bearing (point Load) Wall Removal Advice
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi there
New to this thread but wanted to get some advice from anyone out there. Im removing a load bearing wall from the first floor of a 1939 tudor style house in Denver. The load that I am working with is under the hip-roof portion of the house. The wall that I am removing runs in the same direction as the ceiling joists and there is no header in the wall nor is there a supporting wall below in the basement; however in the attic there is a beam (I believe its called a Purlin?) that runs midway along the roof joists around the hip roof section. To hold the beam up, supports (3 2x4's forming a "V" shape) bring the load from that beam down to a few walls in the house. The roof is 1x8 planks with a layer of OSB and one layer of dimensional asphault shingles. Rafter spacing is 24inches. Because there are no ceiling joists resting on this wall, I just need to deal with either relocating or resupporting the "V" elsewhere. What would you recommend? Is this normal framing for a hip roof or is this just additional support for a snow load? Pictures attached.
Thanks in advance!

ENGINEER10 10-18-2010 07:49 PM

This "V" is a very important roof support. It cannot be removed but the load can be transferred so that it does not go directly down.

The bottom of the "V" above the ceiling joists can be sandwiched by attaching two LVL's on either side of it with 3 through bolts. The LVL's then have to be extended for support by posts in the nearest load bearing wall (or in exterior walls) at each end and the posts run down all the way to the foundation. Alternatively the same can be achieved by sandwiching the bottom of the "V" with steel channels on either side.

For sizing the LVL's or the channels, there isn't enough information given here.

Stringer9 10-18-2010 11:30 PM

LVL sandwich
 
Thanks for the prompt response!
The span is 9 feet and currently the wall that supports this load has a 46 inch arched doorway cut in it. I have it down to the studs and there is no header so I was surprised that its carrying much of a load! I am a little confused on what you mean by "sandwiched". Do you think it would be ok to nail 2 2x12's or other LVL type boards together, remove the "V", insert the beam so it goes 9 feet from an interior wall (wall where the other purlin support comes down in the left of the picture) and sit on top of the brick exterior wall (other end of the 9-foot wall)? Or would you do something else to support the V before I remove anything. I couldnt picture how I would sandwich the V without first removing the 2x4 struts. Thanks again for the advice!
-Chuck

ENGINEER10 10-19-2010 01:58 AM

The whole idea is that you don't remove the struts or the vertical 2x4. The entire "V" bottom is to be sandwiched between double LVL's on both sides of it. Using bolts as first suggested may not be practical here because it is not possible to safely insert them in the narrow face of the struts and vertical. 1/4" long screws will work better and fasten 3 or more for each strut, vertical and on both sides of the "V"

You may have understood incorrectly that it was meant in the other direction toward the brick wall but it isn't.

Stringer9 10-19-2010 10:57 AM

I think I see why we are talking about two different things: The beam that will replace the wall (and the wall) go left to right so I cant sandwich the "v" because the two LVL's wont be able to sit upright (they will form a "V" also. Sorry I didnt lmake that very clear. For me to run the LVL's the other way the span would be more like 30 feet before it gets to a load bearing wall (towards the camera from the far picture. Does this change your ideas? My only other thought its to locate the beam just a few inches away from the bottom of the "V" and replace one strut at a time starting with the vertical strut. Id also need some sort of anchoring (maybe a saddle of some sort) to anchor the LVL to the walls?

Thanks again and sorry to beat a dead horse!

Stringer9 11-09-2010 11:14 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here is what I ended up- lend me your thoughts Engineer 10. Basically, its a 2x12 LVL spanning 9 feet but goes 11 feet to tie into the other purlin struts (just for additional rigidity-insert engineering term). On the right it sits on a 16 inch thick brick wall and is bolted into the roof joist for rigidity. On the Left of the span (middle of the picture) the load goes down via 6 2x4's to the foundation. The LVL is also bolted to the load bearing wall on the left just to keep that wall square within the house (in case the old wall acted as some sort of side support for the wall that is there). All the strut connections use simpson ties. From reading the specs on the LVL it can hold way more weight than I estimate the roof will ever carry (about double). Anything else that you think I may have missed?


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