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Old 01-28-2013, 03:49 PM   #16
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Yes, it is okay to have a crown. Again, you are not using the level to see if it is level, but to see how far the crown is sticking out, when you place the level against it, as a straight edge. Then you can find out how much you have to play with, in the order, of how much the high spot is, compared to the low spots, by using a tape measure.

Helps so that when you go to either cut the shims on a table saw, or just by some from the big box, it will make things look more professional in the end.

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Old 01-28-2013, 03:58 PM   #17
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Quick thought. You say you added that dormer. Do you think the additional weight is causing the wall to bow?
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:58 PM   #18
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Mite be best to just build a new waill inside of the one there. Being it is not a structural wall, you could use 2 x 3's if space is a consideration. You could also add more insulation this way.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:11 PM   #19
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Quick thought. You say you added that dormer. Do you think the additional weight is causing the wall to bow?
Doubt with that old of wood. Most likely they just never secured the top of the 2x4 lumber.

Never even thought of that, when going into depth how to finish the wall best way.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:21 PM   #20
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The weight of the dormer is not causing the bow. It was actually bowed much worse prior to the addition of the dormer. It appears that the outer 5 or 6 feet of the house was added on after the original construction and that the roof has been turned from running north and south to east and west. Anyway when the addition was constructed the only place the outer wall was attatched to the house was at the roof. The second floor was not attached to the outer wall at all. We have used 3/8 lag bolts and went from the bottom of the second floor joist to the studs that is the outer wall. We have pulled this wall in about 2 inches so the bow is much less now.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #21
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The weight of the dormer is not causing the bow. It was actually bowed much worse prior to the addition of the dormer. It appears that the outer 5 or 6 feet of the house was added on after the original construction and that the roof has been turned from running north and south to east and west. Anyway when the addition was constructed the only place the outer wall was attatched to the house was at the roof. The second floor was not attached to the outer wall at all. We have used 3/8 lag bolts and went from the bottom of the second floor joist to the studs that is the outer wall. We have pulled this wall in about 2 inches so the bow is much less now.
Very good. I'd hate for you to go thru all the work of making your drywall level just to be fixing cracks everytime it snows!
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:12 PM   #22
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Not to be critical or anything, but what can you do with a "room" where you will constantly be banging your head, and what about getting out of there in the event of fire? If its just for storage, why finish it?

To answer your question, Brock is correct. Build a new wall, stand it up and strap it plumb to the old wall stuff with insulation.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:19 PM   #23
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Jagans, ask the French guy that was rented a place like that. Finishing it will actually make the envelope tighter, to keep the structure warmer in the Winter, cooler in the Summer.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:52 PM   #24
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@jagans,This room is 30' long, the Dormer is 10' long with 8'ceilings,it will be used for an office, sewing and working on family pictures. Not much need to take up good living space for that. Because of the landscape it is only a 8' jump out the window in case of fire if i cant use the door locatted at the stairs. also i'm only 5' tall. And like gregzoll said it will make the house tighter for heating, THANKS to Gregzoll for all his help
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:01 PM   #25
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So how did you end up doing it?

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