Level/Plumb Furring on a busy wall
I need to furr out about 2-1/4" from the exterior concrete wall for a shower wall.
When I say 2", it is basically the thickness of a 2x4 (which is 1.5") PLUS a 1x furring (which is 3/4"), to the total of 2-1/4".
It does not have to be THAT precisely, can vary a little 1/8" or so. The controlling factor is that is must be deep enough to allow the 1/2" electrical conduits and copper pipes to pass, yet cannot exceeds a certain depth as required by the shower valves (diverters and PB valves).
Here is a picture of this wall (5' wide, 8' tall), with all the plumbing and electrical shown, it is a very busy wall.
I have done this in another bathroom with similar situations, I laid horizontally PT 2x4s, secured with hammer set anchors and Tapcons, then I screwed in 1x3s vertically, this is what I end up previously.
However, this time it much more tricky.
First, the wall is much busier with pipes and fixtures.
Second, this wall is not plumb. I have put in a strip of 1x4 furring on the adjacent wall and you can see the top of this wall is 2" in, and the bottom is less than 1" in. So this concrete wall is further in up top. Now, to make it worse, this is not uniform horizontally. Across the 5' wide shower portion, some part of it is in more than other part.
Should I still go with horizontal PT 2x4s like the other bathroom I did, then put in vertical 1x3 strips?
If so, should I put shims between the 2x4s and the concrete walls, to get them to be all even, and plumb, then screw in the vertical strips?
Or should I secure the 2x4s the best I can following the existing concrete wall, then shim the vertical strips before I screw them back in?
Or some other ways to get them all even?
With so many pipes and fixtures in the way, it's hard to even strike an even line...I wish I have a laser line level square, but I don't.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Is there a reason that you did not build a 2x4 stud wall before the plumbing was installed?
Can you do that now and reset the plumbing?
What you want to do is rather backwards---wall first--then the mechanical---
take the difference out of the backside of the studs top to bottom to follow the out of plumb wall but still be plumb at the face of the wall. 1 x 4 is not recommended at all in a wall, I recommend adding/ nailing another 1x4 next to the ones in the wall you have already put up to make it a 2x4 and use 2x4 for the new wall... put your studs at the far edges and find the difference at the edges of the wall and then pull a horizontal string across the wall to find the plane of the face of the wall along the plumbing etc....
You also run the risk of a drywall nail penetrating a pipe there.
You have total access to the walls and your going to mount the valve on an outside wall that will allow 0 access for repairs.:eek:
Most of the plumbing pipes were soldered in at the same time the drains were done. In order for the drains to be done we had to open up the concrete floor where the foot print of the shower floor is. Hence at the time, there is nothing underneath to even support a bottom plate of a wall.
Once the plumbing (drains and supplies) were done, I backfilled the soil and sand, compacted the ground, added in rebar and wire mesh, pour in new concrete slab...then I have a bottom to build on.
It would be a lot of work to undo all the joints now, and as busy as the wall is, it would be a challenge anyways to build a 2x3 wall (I don't want to lose another inch).
The original bath was all 1x furrings with sheet rock or cement board attached to those, so I am following that pattern.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:47 AM.|