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-   -   leaning garage wall and sagging roof line. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/leaning-garage-wall-sagging-roof-line-160627/)

jrb619 10-20-2012 11:51 AM

leaning garage wall and sagging roof line.
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hello all,

I've got a garage wall that is starting to lean on one side and it's roof line is starting to sag. The lumber is in good shape, no termites or excessive weather damage. I'd like to put it in check and rectify the situation if possible and extend the life of the structure. Do you have any ideas as to what I can do to shore it up?

I feel that it will be a combination of pulling the wall into plumb and sistering the rafters and trusses? If so, what would be the correct order to do that and how?

I'll see if I can attach a few images to the thread for reference. Thanks for your ideas! This site is amazing!

joecaption 10-20-2012 11:58 AM

Post a picture of the inside corners and what your calling trusses.

jrb619 10-20-2012 12:50 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Joe,

Here you go. two pictures of the front corners and more of the ceiling.

mae-ling 10-20-2012 01:15 PM

Is the rafter on the other side sagged?
Is the wall on the other side leaning the same way?

jrb619 10-20-2012 01:44 PM

Mae,

the opposite wall is not leaning. the horizontal joist in the ceiling is bowed downward. I haven't checked the rafters. I'll go get some string and check them out.

joecaption 10-20-2012 02:46 PM

Is that just a 2 X 4 ridge beam?
Looks like someone messed up when building the outside corners, and also did not have 2, plates along the back wall to tie the 2, walls together.
One should have over laped the other.
How is it fastened to the foundation?

mae-ling 10-20-2012 03:19 PM

The bowing of the rafters would slightly and very slightly pull the wall in not out.
Measure along the top plate and bottom plate and the front and back, if the top is longer then the bottom then it was built this way.

If it is out only in the middle and not at the corners the wall is bowed out on the top.

kwikfishron 10-20-2012 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mae-ling (Post 1034616)
The bowing of the rafters would slightly and very slightly pull the wall in not out.

Not necessary with the ridge dropping too.

joecaption 10-20-2012 04:15 PM

I would have thought if the ridge sagged it would likly have pushed out both walls at the top.

You have so many bad things going on I would think it would be best to have someone come on site to look it over.
It may well be as pointed out it was just built that way by someone that had no clue. A simple step like pulling a string to align the top plate before attaching the trusses can throw off the whole wall.

oodssoo 10-20-2012 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrb619 (Post 1034542)
Hello all,

I've got a garage wall that is starting to lean on one side and it's roof line is starting to sag. The lumber is in good shape, no termites or excessive weather damage. I'd like to put it in check and rectify the situation if possible and extend the life of the structure. Do you have any ideas as to what I can do to shore it up?

I feel that it will be a combination of pulling the wall into plumb and sistering the rafters and trusses? If so, what would be the correct order to do that and how?

I'll see if I can attach a few images to the thread for reference. Thanks for your ideas! This site is amazing!


JRB,

Not a big deal if the problem is rectified now than later. Other than inadequate framing opportunities (i.e. 2x4 ridge board and incorrect corners), I believe settlement (i.e. foundation and framing) had some contribution to the existing problem.

What I would do if I were you immediately are simply in the followings:

1) Measure the floor span (bottom plate to bottom plate) left to right.
2) Measure the top span (top plate to top plate) left to right.
3) Identify whether these two dimensions are squared.
4) Double check that the bottom plates are completely resting on the concrete foundation.
5) Check for vertical level of the corners to make sure all four corners are straight up.

Once you have the above mentioned completed, please transcribe the data by incorporating them into your sketch. This will then allow me to help you on the next approach. Well, of course, everyone else would then be able to chime in... :)

Ps. Do you know who built this shed/storage building? (I am hoping it isn't you...)

oh'mike 10-20-2012 05:54 PM

Get us a picture of the complete truss----that truss looks like it's the wrong design----the bottom chord is not resting on the top of the wall----I wonder if they used trusses with extra long tails and used the tails as the supporting place for the truss instead of the bottom chord---

I'm not an expert in truss work--so take thhis one as a guess----

pls8xx 10-20-2012 06:25 PM

Look at how the bottom chord of the truss is connected to the lower end of the rafter. (not shown in any of your photos). A failure of the connection at that point would produce outward bowed walls and the center of the bottom chord would carry the center weight of the roof, bowing down.

jrb619 10-20-2012 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1034609)
Is that just a 2 X 4 ridge beam?
Looks like someone messed up when building the outside corners, and also did not have 2, plates along the back wall to tie the 2, walls together.
One should have over laped the other.
How is it fastened to the foundation?

All rafters, joists and ridge beam are 2X6s. It fastened to the footing with bolts.

jrb619 10-20-2012 08:13 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by oodssoo (Post 1034644)
JRB,

Not a big deal if the problem is rectified now than later. Other than inadequate framing opportunities (i.e. 2x4 ridge board and incorrect corners), I believe settlement (i.e. foundation and framing) had some contribution to the existing problem.

What I would do if I were you immediately are simply in the followings:

1) Measure the floor span (bottom plate to bottom plate) left to right.
2) Measure the top span (top plate to top plate) left to right.
3) Identify whether these two dimensions are squared.
4) Double check that the bottom plates are completely resting on the concrete foundation.
5) Check for vertical level of the corners to make sure all four corners are straight up.

here you go sir. these measurements are in the drawing too.

floor span is consistently 23' 6"
top span varies from 23' 7 1/2" near the front and back. 23' 8 1/2" near the center of the garage.

as to whether or not they are square, I think it is based on the lean of the front garage corners (one side of the corner is vertical, the other side is leaning).

image below for clarification

oodssoo 10-20-2012 08:14 PM

This is not truss system... It is stick frame instead. Two very different designs. Truss is of course usually stronger.

JBR,

What your diagram shows confirms my prediction...

Basically, you need to pull in your top span to match the bottom span. Easy said than done - of course.

You will need to support from the outside first to ensure the walls don't collapse on you.

Then you need to work on bring in the top span starting the middle. The top middle span is 2 inches wider! (Probably run some 2x6s to connect the middle of the top bands by laying them flat to prevent future bowing).

Quite honestly speaking, the roof though is "inadequate" to some extend, the main problem is really in your walls.

The structure is slowly collapsing, so my advise is for you to not wait any longer... :)

All the while, bring the front corners to upright position...

Once this is done the roof will decrease.

Depends on your own ability and degree of understanding the engineering behind this project, I would rate this project a 10/10 for difficulty. (This likely means that your siding will have to come off for you to implement the repairs).


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