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Old 04-01-2014, 05:56 PM   #1
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Leaking Foundation


I have a small cabana 10x18 built on a concrete slab. I have discovered that although some waterproof material was placed under the footings that the proper wood was not used (green) as the footings. Although I live in desert, there are times when it does rain. Water has seeped under the footings and ruined the baseboards. I have removed them and luckily the wallboard was installed above the floor line so no mildew has developed. I have access to all the exterior sides as well as the interior. What is the best way I can seal the footings to eliminate the seepage?

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Old 04-01-2014, 11:43 PM   #2
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Going to need some pictures.
Going have to guess you really mean bottom plates, not footings.
Footing would be under ground, bottom plates is what the wall sits on.

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Old 04-02-2014, 03:16 PM   #3
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Yes, I apologize for that faux pax. I have determined that the bottom plates (2x4) were set on a foam-type insulation but that did not prevent water seepage. I have removed all the baseboards and cleaned up the area to be caulked but need to know what is the best caulk for this application.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:31 PM   #4
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Unless the slab was pored high enough above grade and slightly smaller then the building so the bottom plates could be installed even with the outside of the slab and the siding could run past it the wall will always leak, no amount of caulking is going to keep it out.
That's one reason we need the pictures.
If the slabs slightly larger it may be possible to use flashing to keep out water at the bottom of the wall if it's installed under the siding.
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:04 PM   #5
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The building sits on a larger slab. The outside are wood panels which extend to the slab. Photos attached.
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Leaking Foundation-p1010104.jpg   Leaking Foundation-p1010105.jpg   Leaking Foundation-p1010106.jpg  
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:52 PM   #6
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Okay, photos were sent . . . still need answer if any.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:32 AM   #7
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I've dealt with this quite a few times in the past and as mentioned caulking won't work. It can be done with flashing though.

I know this picture is showing something unrelated but it gets the point across in regards to the flashing.

Take a look at the flashing detail and the cement board in the pic would be your siding (although it would be held up off the flashing) and there would also be a weather barrier between the siding and flashing

There's a couple of ways to do this without removing whole sheets of siding but how to proceed really depends on the condition of the siding that you have now.

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Old 04-04-2014, 05:07 PM   #8
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If I interpret the diagram correctly, I would have to cut a groove around the building to accommodate the flashing?
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:03 PM   #9
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If I interpret the diagram correctly, I would have to cut a groove around the building to accommodate the flashing?
And you would be correct.

I've done this a handful of times and never enjoyed any of them but it does work if "all" of the details are done correctly. The kerf in the concrete is just one detail and this assumes that the slab is relatively flat. Humps and dips present a new list of problems.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:05 PM   #10
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does the flashing need to be on the inside as well or just the outside. Does it come as pictured or do you have to have it folded and what kind of dimensions for the flashing? Finally, just how to cut a groove a inch away from the base. A cutoff saw is too large to do the job in terms of getting that close to the building.

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Old 04-04-2014, 06:22 PM   #11
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I would run the flashing up the wall behind the siding 3" and out over the slab 1-1/2" and down 3/4" and not bent at 90 deg. but more like 95-100 so you can press it in to the slab and get a solid seat.

You'll have to get a local sheet metal shop to bend it for you if you don't have access to a brake. It should cost less than a buck a foot for galvanized to have a shop do it for you.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:41 PM   #12
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. . . and just how would you make a cut 1 1/2 from the side?
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:54 PM   #13
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. . . and just how would you make a cut 1 1/2 from the side?
An 1-1/2" wide strait edge as a guide using a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a diamond blade.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:27 PM   #14
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Well the closest I have to that would be a B&D cutoff with a 4" disc. That would take a while and quite a few discs to do that job.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:37 PM   #15
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$25 for the diamond disk at my small town hardware store and worth every penny of it.

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