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Old 01-26-2009, 08:57 PM   #16
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Could he not use flat steel plates on each side or 3"-4" angle iron bolted to it? Would hold much more than wood.


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Old 01-26-2009, 09:05 PM   #17
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Kadger, is there evidence that another beam intersected through these notches? Is there a footing below the notch?
I tear things down and build them up.
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:17 PM   #18
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more info

Thanks for all the feedback. Here is more info about this fun project. This house was built in 1907. It had "radiators' at one time. This might be where the pipes ran. The floor is around 2" concrete. Much of the work done on this house before I bought it was a joke, this being one example. Will a temp wall hold up everything above? If I read correctly, make the temp wall no more than 2' on both sides of the beam? How long should I make it? From the permanent center lolly all the way to the foundation wall? Studs 16"oc? The 2X8's mentioned earlier are actually 2" thick. Wouldn't newer wood be thinner than the original? Are lvl's exactly the thickness they state? i have adjustable jack post - Adjusts from 8 ft. 4 in. to 4 ft.8 in. Tested to 9,100 lb. at maximum extension and 18,000 lb. at minimum extension.

Will this be enough to raise the 3 floors above?
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Old 01-29-2009, 10:24 PM   #19
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What kc says about square holes is SO true. I don't know about your US building codes, but here in Canada our code provides very specific info on round holes you may use and also where you may, or may not put them.
Anyway, the correct repair solution has already been posted, so no need to repeat that.


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