Lally Column Removal - Best Way

James0816

I hope I posted this in the right area.

I know what you're thinking just as soon as you read the title. :D

First let me say HI! and hope I find lots of good info out here.
On to my project. Removal of (2) lolly columns on a non-load bearing beam. I already had an engineer draw me up (2) flitch plates to install and they should be here in about a week. (Wanted to cover my bases so I paid the money to have it engineered to be safe).

So now my question is....what is the best/easiest way to get the lolly's removed and get the plates up to the floor joists? They weigh ~ 400 each and span 19'.

Needless to say this is going to be fun. I love construction and such and do 90% of my own work.

Hoping some folks out here have some good insight to share.

Thanks,
James

Ron6519

If there are lolly columns under it, it's load bearing.
I'll preface this by saying, I am not an engineer. I do not think you can remove 2 lolly columns, under a load bearing wall and replace it with 2 flitch plates.
What type of house is this? Ranch?
Ron

Troglodyte

Also not an engineer, but it seems to me if you are removing lally beams from underneath a non-load bearing wall (why the Lally beams are there is a mystery), and then attaching a 400lb beam, then you need something to support that beam. What will support the beam? And why are you installing a flitch beam on a non load-bearing wall anyway?

Perhaps a pic or two and more detail

Daniel Holzman

If I understand your post correctly, you hired an engineer to design a flitch beam to increase the strength of an existing wooden beam. I assume you mistyped when you stated that the beam was non-load bearing, clearly it must be load bearing or you would not need to reinforce it, as others have noted.

Assuming the design is correct, the engineer must have included drawings showing the type and spacing of fasteners to connect the flitch plates to the beam. So I will assume that the engineer included all required details of installation, and presumably verified the constructability of the design.

As to lifting a 400 lb steel plate up, the simplest way would be with a pair of come-a-longs attached to a suitably strong beam, presumably the beam you are attaching the plates to would work well. You need to install lifting hooks of suitable strength in the beam to support the come-a-longs and the plates. You then raise the plates to position, and fasten them to the beam per the schedule developed by the engineer.

As to removing the lally columns, if it is a screw type column, you back off the screw and you can reuse the column. If it is a fixed column, you cut part of the top off using a Sawzall, and you junk the column for scrap.

James0816

Ok...I'll provide as much information as I can on this. Please keep in mind that a certified engineer already designed this.

The lolly (lally) columns sit underneath my living room floor. The current support beam is 3x(2x10) which sit in a pocket in the cement wall.

When the house was built (just a few years ago), the builder placed (2) lolly columns under this beam. There is no wall above this...just the floor in the living room. The span is 19'. My plan, of course is to remove these two columns to open up the area underneath. Plan is to place (2) 6x6 at each wall to support the flitch plates.

The plates are designed in the correct manner with the bolts and such.

Is there anything else, information wise, anyone would like to know to assist me?

Thanks kindly!
James

Scuba_Dave

Who decided it was non-load bearing ?
Did the engineer come on site & review the loads & layout ?
Did the engineer specify the 6x6's at each end ?

A floor carries a load, how far do the floor joists span ?

James0816

Non load bearing as there is no wall above it. It's just a floor.

I need to re-iterate the fact that this has already been engineered. Certified, stamped, etc.

And yes...the engineer did specify the 6x6 at each end of the wall.

My question is the installation of the plates and removal of the columns. Just trying to find the best way to get these plates lifted up into place for the install.

Scuba_Dave

Floor joists can only span so far
A floor carries a load
I'm hoping that he was on site & not just based on info he was fed

James0816

Yes, engineer was on site, in my home, took pictures...as well as the pictures I had provided him..measurements of every little detail, original build designs. Every little detail was measured...the room, the floor joists, the rooms around the proposed area.

I'm a detail oriented person, so I'd have to say that everything has been covered.

Scuba_Dave

Sorry for running you thru the wringer so to speak

Here is a thread where someone built some supports to move the same type of beams up:

Not loving the basement pole

RoyalAcresRod

James you did everything, everything right except to say it was not load bearing. It is!

rod

James0816

No problem. I had researched this quite a bit before going through the motions. The engineer is definately the way to go. Just too much at stake.

My only thing was the installation. You can hire a contractor to come in and do it but then you wind up paying just as much if not more that what the engineer charges to design it. Good thing for me that I know my way around a construction site, tools, etc.

I can come up with some pretty good ideas but thought I would poll the user community to see if anyone has done this yet (which i'm sure someone had to have).

James0816

my apologies...usually when we refer to load bearing...we refer to supporting walls above the beam. Just "supporting" a floor is not what we really consider "load" bearing. But I understand what you are saying as well.

Scuba_Dave

I installed my 24' 16" LVL's by myself - about 200 lbs each - new construction so no floor above
Using a ladder & some blocking at the opposite end to slide it up onto a wall
But 400# is a whole different ball game

Best bet is the ladder system outlined in that thread
But about 6 guys (for safety) could lift it up into position if you have supports ready to install