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Old 01-14-2009, 03:29 PM   #16
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knotty pine vaulted ceiling


ok thank you very much! I wasnt sure how much to charge for it. I didnt want to overdo it either. Thanks again!

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Old 01-15-2009, 02:43 PM   #17
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nice pics - hope my job turns out half that sweet

but first, some dumb questions:

- you're starting from top and working down - vs bottom up - is this the standard approach or does it depend on other factors? is there any case where you'd start at the wall plate and work up to the peak?

- what do you do with the t&g at the point where the angle / bend is (where collar tie meets rafter) - do you just trim off the tongue where these boards meet - if so how do you (blind) nail it there?

thanks
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:24 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
For Tongue and Groove pine, the lengths are generally random, like it is with hardwood flooring. Is is usually installed staggered, also like hardwood flooring.
Here is a short video about installing T&G on a flat ceiling. The concept is the same. Tho, they hand nail, you can use a finish nail gun: http://video.bobvila.com/m/21319568/...ch-ceiling.htm

That is up to you. It's a preference. I personlly like the 6" for a stained wood application. Just realize that, there are specific steps and things that you must do to prep stain and seal the wood, before installation. Will the room be heated or insulated? If not, you should seal all edges/sides of the boards and consider installing a vapor barrier behind it.



Good Luck.

FWIW: Here are some pics on one we installed on a room addition we built, last year. I made the decision here to use all 16' lengths. These were not easy to come by, since most lumber yards don't like to separate the longer lengths from the shorts (they are generally sold together).
It took me four trips to different yards, to compile the amount of 16' stock needed:





Thanks for your photos...looks similiar to my current project. A few questions if you dont mind

1. What color and manufacturer of stain was used?
2. What is the color and manufactuer of topcoat?
3. My LUmberyard has thier boards stored outside here in upstate NY...winter humidity is 55%.....my room will be 3 season and is not presently heated but for a tiny space heater.........I see no need to acclimate boards .......Comment?
4. If I install boardss at 55% winter humidity will they buckle at 90 humidity next August?
5. Your wainscoat..did you install casing overtop...and route the casing backs...or did you install casing adjacent to wainscoat.

thanks for any tips...i plan to be sealing the knots, then stain, then 2 coats water base poly all sides

My ceiling is r30c insulated with kraft face..room is sheetrock over R16 kraft

appleo in upstate NY
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:59 PM   #19
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I love the look of this ceiling and would like to do the same thing in a cabin remodel. I am a DIY and need some detailed info. on how to finish the t & g pine boards. I plan on finishing all sides of the board before we install them. Could you give me a how-to on how to finish them to get the same look? Steps involved, number of coats recommended, actual products used. Thanks!!!
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:14 AM   #20
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Lots of good info here .

Sorry about the hijack but I've been contemplating doing a ceiling of one room in the basement.

Is drywall required first ??
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:10 AM   #21
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I have T&G pine boards for ninety percent of my upstairs ceiling. T&G will not seal air tight. Gaps will appear over time and can be seasonable. Be sure to install some type of air tight ceiling before installing the T&G boards. The pics show plastic but I'm sure you could also use drywall.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:55 PM   #22
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To: Atlantic Builder... love the ceiling look... can you tell us the stain & shellac/varnish combo you used to get that look?
Many thanks!
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:32 AM   #23
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same question as RimShot65 - and also still interested in the "top down" vs "bottom up" question posted earlier in the thread....
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:29 PM   #24
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TO Rtoni....

From what I have read, you can start at the wall plate and work up to the top. I plan to do this myself. Then you are working with gravity as you move up and it should be easier and faster. A couple of suggestions though, that I have read. As you near the peak, say four or five feet before, start to measure off the end distances to the peak. You can then adjust the boards a bit, so if your boards are not squaring up nicely to the peak, you can still correct for it. The other point, was when you at your last board to the peak, you will likely have to cut it along the length to fit up there properly, and may have to face nail it. Then using the same principles, nail up the other side, face nail the last board, and then you could put a trim board (1x1 or 2x2) right down the middle. Or another T&G board into the peak with the face parallel to the floor.

Huge caution here... I haven't done this, merely what I have read, and I figure this will be my approach.

Open to ideas, and would still love to hear from AtlanticBuilder on how he achieved that colour & finish!
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:10 AM   #25
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Just an idle comment.....

This thread has some of the best and most accurate information I have seen recently......
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:25 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rimshot65 View Post
To: Atlantic Builder... love the ceiling look... can you tell us the stain & shellac/varnish combo you used to get that look?
Many thanks!
Sorry, missed the several requests. Lately, I am on this site more, than I have had the time to be (in 2009 - 2011), though my free time is still very limited (often non-existent).

Its a Minwax "Honey Oak". Make sure you seal all 4 sides, including cross-cut endgrains, prior to each board segment install.

Gotta get back to work now....
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:47 AM   #27
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Board width question

The board with is up to your liking
15 high ceiling with 1x4 T&G will look tight with to many joints
I think you should pick up a few pieces of deferent widths and temporarily put them up so you can get a better esthetic value
After 40 years of home building
I would go with the wider board


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Originally Posted by raghib View Post
Hello,
We are adding a new sunroom to our home and would like to put knotty pine on the vaulted ceiling. The room is 12WX18long. Ceiling is 15 foot high and walls are 10 foot high.
I was hoping someone could give me some helpful information on installation. We don't want to pay expense of "pre-finished" so we thought we would go to a lumber yard to buy the knotty pine. I was interested if any one had any ideas on length size since the longest I can find is 12 foot long. Therefore we are going to have to cut and piece. Has anyone done this? Which width is better 4 6 or 8 inches.

ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated. I am a novice at building, but really like the look of the vaulted wood ceiling and want to put one in! thanks for the help
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:54 AM   #28
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RimShot - thanks for the additional info. I'm also going at this for the first time (have done some cheap cabin grade pine on walls, but never a vaulted ceiling).

Picking up on the advice from Atlantic re: sealing all sides of the wood. This seems to be the collective wisdom. I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ (you guys have probably forgotten more than I'll ever know) but I have to ask - I put up thin pine t&g boards on the walls in my camp over 12 years ago without any finish on them at all - and they still look like the day I installed them. The camp would go from -20 or colder (unattended) to +20 deg c (70 F) and beyond on a regular basis, for years.

Now, the stuff for my ceiling is a knotty pine 1x6 board, pre-finished at the mill with a whitewash / pickle stain on one side only. This stuff has an "end matched" t&g which apparently allows me to place end butt joints anywhere - e.g. between rafters. I figured it would be a while before I could attack this ceiling so I stacked the boards neatly in a few piles. Well, it's been sitting on the floor in the room for over 6 months now while I inch my way through another project. If I check it now every board I look at still looks perfect to me. Is this going to turn to crap when I nail it up? Once this ceiling is on we're throwing down some flooring and pretty much moving in, so the inside climate should be pretty consistent from then on. It's had 3 different seasons to acclimate and it hasn't cupped, warped, anything. So I'm kinda confused.

Isn't this a good acid test for the material?

Or is the finish on 1 side only actually worse than no finish at all?

Did I mess up?
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:18 PM   #29
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FWIW - Sealing all sides of the wood is more about protection from airborne moisture and humidity levels, than it is about fluctuations in seasonal temperatures.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:54 PM   #30
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I've always gone from bottom to top. It's easier especially if you work alone and there is no advantage of going top to bottom that I know of

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