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Old 05-17-2007, 02:17 PM   #1
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knee wall question


My friend has a wall the is non bearing and wants to make it into a knee wall inbetween the kitchen and living room. We removed all electrical and made the wall about 3'-6" or 4'.( not sure) right now the end wall moves back and forth. Placed a top on it and drilled a hole in the top plate and placed a 3/8" threaded rod (going to the basement). Tightened up on the rod and still wobbles. Did i mention the wall was built with 2x3 also. What are your suggestions to stop the wobbleing with out removing the entire thing and rebuilding with 2x4.. PLEASE HELP....

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Old 05-17-2007, 02:31 PM   #2
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My friend has a wall the is non bearing and wants to make it into a knee wall inbetween the kitchen and living room. We removed all electrical and made the wall about 3'-6" or 4'.( not sure) right now the end wall moves back and forth. Placed a top on it and drilled a hole in the top plate and placed a 3/8" threaded rod (going to the basement). Tightened up on the rod and still wobbles. Did i mention the wall was built with 2x3 also. What are your suggestions to stop the wobbleing with out removing the entire thing and rebuilding with 2x4.. PLEASE HELP....
The best way to keep it from 'wobbling' is to attach it like a railing with a 'post' at the end. That means that you would have to take up part of the floor and 'bolt' a 6x6 fir post at the end of the wall - into the side of a floor joist.

The very end of the section would be a 4x4 fir post, notched and bolted. We double the top plates to create an 'overlap' of the wall framing (Cap them like exterior framed walls). We like to add 3" - 4" deck screws for at all the attachment points (Holds tighter than nails)
Last, we use 5/8" sheetrock on both sides. Much stiffer and firmer. You could use construction adhesive on the back sides of the SR when attaching too.

FWIW - This is the method that we always use when building a 1/2 wall and they are solid.


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Old 05-17-2007, 03:00 PM   #3
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knee wall question


AtlanticWBConst.
thanks for the quick reply. Just to give a little more information. The wall is 5'-6" long 2x3 studs 1/2 sheetrock. directly under the wall is a doubled up 2x6 joist. Are you saying to put a 4x4 wood post at the wobbling end and secure it to the double joists? He has not taken off the existing sheetrock. I was thinking to rip it all down and start over but he dosent want to spend the time doing it.....Any ideas?
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Old 05-17-2007, 03:25 PM   #4
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AtlanticWBConst.
thanks for the quick reply. Just to give a little more information. The wall is 5'-6" long 2x3 studs 1/2 sheetrock. directly under the wall is a doubled up 2x6 joist. Are you saying to put a 4x4 wood post at the wobbling end and secure it to the double joists? He has not taken off the existing sheetrock. I was thinking to rip it all down and start over but he dosent want to spend the time doing it.....Any ideas?
Basically, it's built all wrong (2x3's)

Seriously, rip it all down and build it with 2x4's and use a 4x4 fir post, notched and lagged onto the doubled floor joists. Use the 5/8" sheetrock etc.... (unless you like living with a wobbly wall)
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Old 05-17-2007, 04:34 PM   #5
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Nother option, if you dont want to tear it down, is to add a little return wall, (make it an "L" shaped or a "T" shaped wall) to the end of it. 10" to 12" screwed to the end of the existing wall then attached to the floor would stiffen it up considerably.
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Old 05-31-2007, 03:04 PM   #6
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Thank you all for all your help. We accually put in 2 2x3's and nailed them into the floor and the ceiling and sheetrocked around it. It made the wall more secure. It looks really nice also. Thanks again.
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Old 05-31-2007, 03:17 PM   #7
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Glad it all worked out for you with minimal re-working.

Now, we a just waiting to see the ''finished'' pictures....
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:30 PM   #8
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Sorry the pictures took so long but here is the finished wall. wood trim still needs to be stained





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