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Old 03-10-2007, 05:26 PM   #1
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Knee Wall Not Level


I'm putting 1/2" drywall up on my knee walls. The problem is that I noticed the walls slant in about an 1.5" I was wondering if there is anything simple I can do to correct the wall. I thought of maybe ripping 2x4's to bulid out over the existing wall, but I have the entire room to do. Is there anything easier or that I can buy?

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Old 03-10-2007, 05:37 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by cibula11 View Post
I'm putting 1/2" drywall up on my knee walls. The problem is that I noticed the walls slant in about an 1.5" I was wondering if there is anything simple I can do to correct the wall. I thought of maybe ripping 2x4's to bulid out over the existing wall, but I have the entire room to do. Is there anything easier or that I can buy?

When you say 'knee-wall" - Are you referring to an 'attic-type' knee wall or a basement-type knee wall (In front of the concrete freezewall)?

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Old 03-10-2007, 05:37 PM   #3
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Also, a pic. would help?
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:40 PM   #4
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Knee Wall Not Level


Its a knee wall in the attic. It's only 40" high, but like I said not at all plumb.
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:44 PM   #5
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Its a knee wall in the attic. It's only 40" high, but like I said not at all plumb.
How is it attached at the top? Could you take a sawz-all and cut the nails?
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:49 PM   #6
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Another possibility is to nail a 1.5" thick wood strip (cleat) horizontally across the top (one end of the wall to the other)

Next: Approximately 20" down (the center of the wall height) - Measure what the difference is there for the plumb. Take that measurement and rip down another wood cleat that will be installed(nailed) at that half way height and laid horizontally across your knee wall. End of the wall to the other end.

Now, when you install the sheetrock, make sure that you screw into those 2 locations, as well as the bottom = plumb wall!!
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:51 PM   #7
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The studs are cut at an angle and toenailed into the roof rafters. I tried just pounding them back at the top but I got nowhere.
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:51 PM   #8
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At 40" of height, you could also install one top cleat and then add 2 cleats placed about 13" apart. (instead of one at the center)
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:54 PM   #9
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You would also have to rip the cleats down at an angle to do that. I honestly would do that - if faced with that situation.

To get the angle you need, and make sure that you are plumb...use an adjustable T bevel:

Like these:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/se...=amd-google-20

Use a tool like that and a torpedo level.
Once you have that angle, use it to set your angle on your table saw...
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:57 PM   #10
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In essence: You are accomplishing the same thing as if you ripped down 'shims' for each stud, however, this way - you are only ripping down one 'long' shim and installing it quickly (horizontally) over all the off-plumb studs.
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:58 PM   #11
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Is there anyway I could run firring strips perpendicular to the existing studs. I could start out with a 2x2 at the bottom and halfway up run a 1x1 and then nothing at the top. I could then just add my drywall on that??
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Old 03-10-2007, 06:01 PM   #12
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Sorry, maybe that is what you are suggesting. So, basically I have 3 cleats running across the existing studs? Why do I need to angle them?
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Old 03-10-2007, 06:04 PM   #13
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For some reason I never saw your post about the 1.5" cleats. I think I understand now. I think instead of ripping a cleat, I could just use a smaller one at the middle.
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Old 03-10-2007, 06:06 PM   #14
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Sorry, maybe that is what you are suggesting. So, basically I have 3 cleats running across the existing studs? Why do I need to angle them?
If your studs are leaning at 1.5" off plumb. You could put a 'slight' angle on the rips to make up for that.


Do you have to do that? Not really....


You could lay a 2x3 along the top area to do the 1.5" build out. Then use a build up of furring strips to get the right depth of thickness for your center "nailers"
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Old 03-10-2007, 06:08 PM   #15
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Sounds like you've got the 'jist' of the concept...

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