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weaver 08-02-2006 09:57 PM

kit metal building as addition structure
Ok, I also would love some feedback regarding the idea of using a metal bulding kit to use as our frame and roof for our addition onto our rambler. it would need to be on piers, or hopefully the kit itself could be used (the addition is out the back, making it the second floor due to the ground slope). We want an unusual shape, with the roof of the additon as a shed roof sloping UPaway from the house, to bring in more light and views at the end, and metal pre-fabs come in this slope. we would order the standing seam room, and the frame, girts, purlins, etc, but use our own choice of (nicer) windows and siding, not just galvalume. the back wall would be almost all windows, the side walls mostly siding with fewer windows.

We are concerned about costs vs stickbuilt. but we are trying to think a bit greener and also perhaps faster (I understand these things can be erected in a day or two). Also can't quite envision how to marry the roofing materials (asphalt on the rambler, metal sloping down toward the asphalt roof from the addition, especially how to shed rain, make a watertight seal. what do people think of these kit-style metal building structures? thanks!

Bonus 08-02-2006 10:05 PM

Never tried it and wouldn't suggest it. Seems like there would be a nightmare of details trying to marry the two structures. But just my initial impression, maybe someone has done this with success. Good luck.

weaver 08-02-2006 10:11 PM

thanks for your reply. is it problematic to use two different roofing materials when doing an addition, whatever the framing materials used? And these roofs will both slope down toward one another. We would like to use some kind of "cricket" (is that what it's called?) so the water will shed. What kind of material could be used with both metal standing seam on one side and asphalt shingle on the other? some of those rubber roofing products is what I have in mind...

joasis 08-03-2006 10:00 AM

Anytime you intersect two rooflines together coming to a valley, you could have potential problems if not done correctly. Shedding the valley with a "cricket" roof would be a lot of work, but may be the best, depending on your rainfall and snowfall in your area. A wide valley can be installed, and as long as you do not pierce the valley, they are effective, providing they can drain as fast as the heaviest rain you could expect.

Steel kits are only as good as the manufacturer..and as a steel building erector, not something I would advise a DIYer to get into unless you really have some skills in this area.

weaver 08-04-2006 08:39 PM

thanks so much for the information. We were thinking we would hire an experienced erector, who could hopefully also install our aluminum windows. then we would finish off the rest of the room ourselves, with some sub-contracting help. what we would like is for the manufacturer to also supply steel floor joists, since the building needs to be on peirs (or "be" the piers, more acturately. As an experienced erector, have you seen these buildings used as two stories, with foor joists between? (the "first floor" would just be the piers on grade, and in fact would be less than a full floor in most places).

we can see there is a wide variety of manufacturors, we are looking at Olympia buildings. Can I ask about actual company recommendations in this chatroom? we certainly recognize the need for a quality project!

manhattan42 08-05-2006 07:17 AM

Building codes normally do not allow the attachement of manufactured or industrial structures to a residence without an approved engineering design.

You need to verify with your local code office, but what you propose requires engineered stamped drawings in most locations.

joasis 08-05-2006 10:19 PM

Generally speaking, you can enclose space by stick framing or steel for roughly the same price per sq/ft. The term we use for a second floor in a steel structure is a mezzanine, and now you will get into engineering, since a kit will not be designed for this. If you are fortunate enough to not have to deal with a "code enforcement official", you will need to seek an engineer's advice for what you are proposing anyway. Finishing out steel buildings to a residential level could eat your monetary savings in using the steel kit anyway. I would really suggest you go with conventional framing. If you have an erector in your area, get his input, since he will be more familiar with your location and building conditions.

weaver 08-07-2006 11:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thank you! Check out the attachment of a perspective drawing of the (fantasy) addition, a 16 x 22 ft. living room with aluminum windows on one side, a 16 x 14 screened-in porch/small deck on the other. it's such a simple box in many ways, it's hard for me to believe we can't find something kit-like and economical to use?!?

Can you suggest how I can FIND a reputable erector to speak with, just to make sure we can't utilize this technology? We do have an engineer to stamp the plans, if it's possible and we can get the permits. also, we are not looking to finish this out in a traditional way, but will use more modern, slightly industrial materials and finishes (for example, we would like the steel beams to be exposed some, if insulation will allow for it.). Even then,you are probably right that the costs will only be higher than stick-built, not lower. It doesn't often seem to pay to do things a bit differently - or more people would do them that way, I guess!

Another concern for me is overbuilding, in that we don't need the materials stand-alone structure if we are attaching to our home, and instead could/need to attach the addition to a ledger board. what I guess I really want is just PART of a kit, for the roof and the frame away from the house. I know, they don't work that way.

Thanks to responders for feedback and clear descriptions of the issues! the mezzanine level makes sense now, and I had been confused by the terms "pre-engineered" and "kit." If I understand you correctly it's similar to the difference between custom and stock (with corresponding prices). Do I have that right?

I truly appreciate everyone's feedback.

weaver 08-07-2006 11:35 PM

sorry, I also keep meaning to mention we live in Northern Virginia, in a close-in suburb of DC, also right next to Maryland.

Bonus 08-08-2006 09:59 AM

Unless you're really attached to the 'industrial look', that structure could be readily built with stick framing. (Or timber framing for that matter) Though I'd probably scrap that design of roof and just bring a simple shed from higher up the existing roof to the same height on the (new) outside edge of the addition. That would get rid of some weak points in the new roof and probably wouldn't cost any more once you spend the money making sure that cricket doesn't leak. Good luck with it.

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