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Old 12-04-2012, 08:54 PM   #16
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joist not sitting flush to beam


I have installed some similar and they passed framing inspection. Just so the back edge of the joist is not shorter than the inside edge of the hanger at the bottom = full hanger bottom bearing. Those appear to be similar to a Simpson double-dome shear hanger: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...rs/LUS-HUS.asp

Be careful on the correct length 45* nails, pp. 75; http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalog...09.pdf#page=38

The gap to the header will allow seasonal expansion/contraction and still have some shear (though you may not need it in this application).

Gary

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Old 12-04-2012, 08:54 PM   #17
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joist not sitting flush to beam


by setting the joists on one side of the beam first only your creating a problem.. if theres any deviation on one end where they start to the beam will deflect.. you should work both sides so to keep the beam straight.. in combination with my comment about things not being level it will hit on the top and not be a even joint which pushes on the beam
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:30 PM   #18
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joist not sitting flush to beam


Outer wall and the center beam either or both may not be straight. You measured one spot and cut them all and get the gap in spots.
Unfortunately, I think you picked wider 2x6 to use as a gauge block. Hangers are below the girder. Above being attic, hangers should've been matched to the bottom of the beam. Repair depends on kind of ceiling, although redoing the joists now may make everything easier later. One less thing to forget later.
There should be more studs under the beam to support, continuous to the foundation. Triple beam, triple support.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:14 AM   #19
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joist not sitting flush to beam


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
I have installed some similar and they passed framing inspection. Just so the back edge of the joist is not shorter than the inside edge of the hanger at the bottom = full hanger bottom bearing. Those appear to be similar to a Simpson double-dome shear hanger: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...rs/LUS-HUS.asp

Be careful on the correct length 45* nails, pp. 75; http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalog...09.pdf#page=38

The gap to the header will allow seasonal expansion/contraction and still have some shear (though you may not need it in this application).

Gary
Gary

What do you mean by the inside edge of the hanger at the bottom?

That is the correct hangers Im using, from Lowes.

The correct nails Im using. 16 x 3 1/2 and 10 x 1 1/2.

I live in Florida.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:15 AM   #20
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
by setting the joists on one side of the beam first only your creating a problem.. if theres any deviation on one end where they start to the beam will deflect.. you should work both sides so to keep the beam straight.. in combination with my comment about things not being level it will hit on the top and not be a even joint which pushes on the beam
I did not know that.

So, do you suggest me finish the project or go back and take the joist out....and work back and forth from opposite ends?

Last edited by 67velle; 12-05-2012 at 06:16 AM. Reason: add to it
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:24 AM   #21
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
by setting the joists on one side of the beam first only your creating a problem.. if theres any deviation on one end where they start to the beam will deflect.. you should work both sides so to keep the beam straight.. in combination with my comment about things not being level it will hit on the top and not be a even joint which pushes on the beam

Bingo! That was going to be my answer. Gotta work both sides at same time. Also might help to prop a couple spots to the floor until your done to stop any deflection.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:25 AM   #22
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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Originally Posted by carpdad View Post
Outer wall and the center beam either or both may not be straight. You measured one spot and cut them all and get the gap in spots.
Unfortunately, I think you picked wider 2x6 to use as a gauge block. Hangers are below the girder. Above being attic, hangers should've been matched to the bottom of the beam. Repair depends on kind of ceiling, although redoing the joists now may make everything easier later. One less thing to forget later.
There should be more studs under the beam to support, continuous to the foundation. Triple beam, triple support.

I think its the center beam is not straight.

I measured in one spot only, not really thinking I guess.

I used a piece of scrap from the same 2x6's to measure my joist hangers.

I see that know, on matching the hanger to the bottom. I measured from the top.

Not sure supports can be put up, the width of the room is about 20 feet. The area is a garage for a car. Supports would get in the way of the car.
Ceiling, I had planned to screw drywall to it.

I dont mind going back and redoing some things, just going to slow me down some. Its a personal project.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:27 AM   #23
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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Bingo! That was going to be my answer. Gotta work both sides at same time. Also might help to prop a couple spots to the floor until your done to stop any deflection.
You mean put support posts under the beam?
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:18 AM   #24
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joist not sitting flush to beam


This may be a silly questions but why didn't you just hang drywall from the bottom chord of that scissor truss? It seems like overkill to frame an entirely new ceiling structure when you had a perfectly good one already there. I thought originally it was for overhead storage or a second level but you dont have enough headroom to make it usable. Just a thought.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:29 AM   #25
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joist not sitting flush to beam


unless the trusses have a 2x8 bottom chord their not designed to be used for storage.

as for setting the joists. when i install a full run of joists on one side of a beam i run a dryline on the opposite edge of the beam to check if the beam is deflecting. if the string reads a constant 1 1/2" gap between it and the beam its good. when your setting things in hangers always cut the joist atleast 1/8" slack so they slide in easy
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:39 AM   #26
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
unless the trusses have a 2x8 bottom chord their not designed to be used for storage.

as for setting the joists. when i install a full run of joists on one side of a beam i run a dryline on the opposite edge of the beam to check if the beam is deflecting. if the string reads a constant 1 1/2" gap between it and the beam its good. when your setting things in hangers always cut the joist atleast 1/8" slack so they slide in easy
I was under the impression he was doing this project in order to hang lights, insulate, and drywall. Not for storage. My fault.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #27
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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This may be a silly questions but why didn't you just hang drywall from the bottom chord of that scissor truss? It seems like overkill to frame an entirely new ceiling structure when you had a perfectly good one already there. I thought originally it was for overhead storage or a second level but you dont have enough headroom to make it usable. Just a thought.
I had a drywall contractor come out and framing contractor come out and they had planned to do that. The trusses are not regular trusses. They are mobile home type trusses. For whatever reason they are not installed on the on centers like they should be. There are three trusses in the middle with 8" on centers I think. Then it fans out to 32" centers. I have no idea why as to thats how they were when I moved in.

Their idea kind of scared me and my brother in law who lives in PA and is a union carpenter. He made the suggested plan Im doing now.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:36 PM   #28
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
unless the trusses have a 2x8 bottom chord their not designed to be used for storage.

as for setting the joists. when i install a full run of joists on one side of a beam i run a dryline on the opposite edge of the beam to check if the beam is deflecting. if the string reads a constant 1 1/2" gap between it and the beam its good. when your setting things in hangers always cut the joist atleast 1/8" slack so they slide in easy

Those mobile home trusses do not have that.

I dont know if I know what a dryline is.

Can you reexplain?

I gotcha on the hangers. You dont tack them up there tight so the joist has to be knocked into the hanger. You leave about a 1/16" on each side so it slides in.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:37 PM   #29
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joist not sitting flush to beam


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I was under the impression he was doing this project in order to hang lights, insulate, and drywall. Not for storage. My fault.

No storage, just lights, insulation and drywall.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:48 PM   #30
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joist not sitting flush to beam


Just read everyones post and went out and measured the height of the beam. On the ends near the header, its right at 12 feet. In the middle, it looks like it is sagging about 1".

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