Joining New Weeping Tile To Old - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-06-2011, 12:51 PM   #1
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 39
Rewards Points: 25

Joining new weeping tile to old


I am going to be replacing the weeping tile around my house. I haven't dug it up yet.

One of the things I am concerned about is how to join the new polyethelene weeping tile to the old service. I'm assuming the old service is cast iron.

Would it be OK to simply slide it over top and concrete around it, or are there special couplings made for this sort of thing ?



Mike Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2011, 03:34 PM   #2
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 17,158
Rewards Points: 6,652

Slipping it over and then pulling the fabric over is how it is done. Just make sure that you cover the tile over with rock on top of the fabric sock that goes over the drain tile. You can get the plastic tile with the sock already on it. Also, depending on how far you are digging, anything over 4 feet, you should use 1/2 ply 4x8 sheets to hold the earth while working around the foundation.


gregzoll is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to gregzoll For This Useful Post:
Mike Mike (06-17-2011)
Old 01-24-2012, 02:08 PM   #3
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 39
Rewards Points: 25

For anyone researching this, it turns out that you can use regular PVC to PVC to join PVC to clay. The inside diameters of the two are basically the same. ( You will need to cut off the plastic clips. You'll see what I mean when you go to do it. )
Mike Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2012, 02:48 PM   #4
Civil Engineer
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 5,637
Rewards Points: 4,854

I have never seen cast iron weeping tile. By the words weeping tile I assume you are referring to a perimeter drain with perforated pipe. It would be an enormous amount of work to drill holes in cast iron, and I have never seen it come pre-perforated. Just out of curiosity, why are you replacing the tile line?
Daniel Holzman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 04:27 PM   #5
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 39
Rewards Points: 25

What I meant was that I assumed the storm sewer service from the street was cast iron. Turns out there was no storm sewer service from the street at all.

In the end, I needed to find a way to hook up the new pvc drainage tile to old clay tile. That is what I meant in my last post.
Mike Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 07:53 PM   #6
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: atl & hilton head
Posts: 4,572
Rewards Points: 4,726

cast iron ? maybe IF the installer or h/o owned a iron furnace,,, more'n likely it may be orangeburg ( orange clay pipe ),,, we use 4" hdpe ADS pipe sold by the apron/vest/plumbing stores - cheap, flexible, & lasts forever ,,, do NOT make the mistake of using the cloth ' sock ' as that will allow silt too close to the pipe,,, we line a 1'x1' excavation w/filter cloth, install some bedding stone ( # 57 ), place the pipe, & cover w/more 57 stone,,, then the filter cloth is folder over the top & the excavation filled in compacted ' lifts ',,, IF you need to splice, use the 4" pcs avail from your pipe source - black is cheaper & lasts just as long.

we're doing 1 tomorrow & incorporating an exterior sump & pump - this will be a 50' system 4' deep so we'll be done in a day,,, YOU have to consider drainage / discharge,,, IF your system does NOT drain to daylight ( gravity ), you'll also need a pump,,, natl elec code requires a gfci protected dedicated circuit.

good luck !

ps - i'e done this work for almost 40yrs - how do you define ' weeping tile ' & what is it - pvc, hdpe, clay ? thanks !
stadry is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to stadry For This Useful Post:
concretemasonry (01-25-2012)
Old 01-26-2012, 06:33 AM   #7
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nashua, NH, USA
Posts: 7,963
Rewards Points: 1,532

The new weeping tile can be joined to the old in any fashion. The joint does not have to be watertight.

ONe disadvantage of "socks" is that they may cling to the pipe and only the 1/2 inch or so diameter patch just over each perforation in the pipe conducts water. This slows down the capture and conducting of water over to the sump pump pit or final exit to the outside. This is also more sensitive to clogging with silt.


The good conscientious technician or serviceperson will carry extra oils and lubricants in case the new pump did not come with oil or the oil was accidentally spilled, so the service call can be completed without an extra visit.

Last edited by AllanJ; 01-26-2012 at 06:36 AM.
AllanJ is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tile over Tile ?? Piney Flooring 17 02-06-2012 09:59 PM
Bathroom tile installation demolition Kitchen & Bath Remodeling 4 04-10-2011 07:48 PM
Vertical tile on wall poolecw Flooring 2 06-01-2010 10:05 AM
Joining carpet and ceramic tile rooms TedT Flooring 10 05-21-2008 08:25 PM
HELP! Tile flooring question Marsy Flooring 1 02-16-2007 09:22 PM

Top of Page | View New Posts


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1