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-   -   Insulation Question. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/insulation-question-11188/)

GearHd6 09-01-2007 10:02 PM

Insulation Question.
 
I've got a garage im looking to insulate. Its got 2x8 ceiling rafters and 2x4 wall studs. Whats the max insulation I can install in these locations. It seems as though im hearing that the 2x8 rafters are an odd ball size so you either have to pack in stuff thats a little to thick or go real light. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

concretemasonry 09-01-2007 10:09 PM

You can always blow cellulose into the attic ceiling. It is more effective than fiberglass, does not have gaps, will fit around anything and you can install as much as you wish.

Like all ceiling insulation, make sure you use "chutes" to provide ventilation from the soffit vents to the peak.

GearHd6 09-02-2007 07:34 AM

Well my garage is a cambrel (barn) style. Its got a full up stairs that I dont plan on heating. Theres already a plywood floor upstairs so i'd only be insulating the ceiling/floor section. Whats the average cost to have the insulation blown in and how do they gain access to it? Drill holes? Thanks

Big Bob 09-02-2007 09:05 AM

No need to over engr this.

One insulates for energy savings and personal comfort.

Ceiling: R-19 Kraft paper or FSK faced batts will fluff to 6 to 6.5" your 2x8 actual is 7.25"
Buy a hammer stapler DIY save lots of $ and time. You will enjoy a relatively quick pay back in energy savings $. You have the freedom to add drywall when you are ready.

Walls: R-13 will fluff to 3.5" same as your wall cavity. (Same as above)

Any additional efforts will take many years to see any savings.

Do not forget too.
Fire caulk or seal wire etc. penetrations to local codes.
( very good practice)

GearHd6 09-02-2007 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Bob (Post 60915)
No need to over engr this.

One insulates for energy savings and personal comfort.

Ceiling: R-19 Kraft paper or FSK faced batts will fluff to 6 to 6.5" your 2x8 actual is 7.25"
Buy a hammer stapler DIY save lots of $ and time. You will enjoy a relatively quick pay back in energy savings $. You have the freedom to add drywall when you are ready.

Walls: R-13 will fluff to 3.5" same as your wall cavity. (Same as above)

Any additional efforts will take many years to see any savings.

Do not forget too.
Fire caulk or seal wire etc. penetrations to local codes.
( very good practice)

So for the walls I dont need paper backed insulation? Just use the bare stuff? Will I need to cover the walls or ceiling with poly? Seeing this is a detached garage application I dont think im going to use sheetrock but im not 100% sure yet.
Thanks again, Jeff

crecore 09-02-2007 06:29 PM

I would use unfaced on the walls then run poly horizontal... cheaper, easier, quicker, better IMHO.

Big Bob 09-04-2007 09:56 AM

3.5 thick unfaced might be hard to find, and might cost more than the faced available T/L price war on sale stuff.

Do you have an insulated garage door?

GearHd6 09-04-2007 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Bob (Post 61237)
3.5 thick unfaced might be hard to find, and might cost more than the faced available T/L price war on sale stuff.

Do you have an insulated garage door?

As of right now my door isnt insulated but it'll get changed out in the near future. I knows thats a major heat loss.


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