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Old 01-29-2011, 09:32 AM   #1
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insulation debate


In a older cape designed homes in Western New York, you find alot of these homes with remoldeld attics. Typical 4 foot knee wall, a 5 foot slant and 6 foot flat ceiling. My question is the dilemma of insulating that slant section without removing the wall covering. you cant get a rafter vent in there and I dont think filling it with loose cellulose is a good idea.
Any thoughts?

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Old 01-29-2011, 09:43 PM   #2
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insulation debate


Usually you need to add furring rafters below the existing 2x4,6 to get the required insulation for your local area. Otherwise ice dams form from melting snow because of the heat loss at the sloped ceiling. Some remove the ceiling and add foam board, if you can get enough space...

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Old 01-30-2011, 09:03 AM   #3
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insulation debate


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Originally Posted by ipi home inspec View Post
In a older cape designed homes in Western New York, you find alot of these homes with remoldeld attics. Typical 4 foot knee wall, a 5 foot slant and 6 foot flat ceiling. My question is the dilemma of insulating that slant section without removing the wall covering. you cant get a rafter vent in there and I dont think filling it with loose cellulose is a good idea.
Any thoughts?
It's more then, "how can I get it in there?" The issue is, is it the right amount for the region you live?
What size framing are you dealing with?
Ron
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:35 PM   #4
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insulation debate


I don't want to hijack the thread, but I just came here looking for best ways to eliminate ice dams in a cape constructed the same way as in the OP. If I should start a new thread, please let me know.

I wanted to increase the amount of insulation in the attic space between the knee wall and the eave hoping to eliminate heat lose and ice daming. Will doing this not solve my ice dam issues because I'm getting too much melt from the sloped section? I have 2x6 rafters that appear to be filled with R-13 (2x4 insulation) or equivalent. We are in Southern Maine.

Why would blowing in cellulose be a bad idea?
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:11 PM   #5
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insulation debate


I would recommend Injection Foam. Cellulose even if installed correctly will only get you approx. r-3/inch, assuming the rafters are 2x6, which alot of the capes I've seen are, you would have an effective r-value of 18. Im from Eastern Pa and you certainly want more insulation than that. The injection foam yields approx. r 6-7/inch and only needs a whole about the size of a nickel between each rafter to install it. Costs are usually 1-2$/ft. depending on the contractors in your area.
Also, unless the bottom of the slanted cavity is properly blocked you run the risk of the cellulose settling and falling out of the cavity.
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Old 01-30-2011, 10:04 PM   #6
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insulation debate


Going through this on my house, and in my case I am gutting the ceiling. Being that I have 2x4 rafters, after 2" taken up for baffles, 2" isn't enough space for insulation so I've furred the sloped ceiling out by adding 2x4's for a total cavity depth of 8" with space for R19 batts.

This house had no effective ventilation when purchased, and by no effective insulation, what I mean is that the 4 can vents located high on the ceiling were obstructed by birds nests, gable vents had no screening to keep any unwanted animals out, and cellulose had been blown in above the horizontal ceiling. Side attics were insulated with fiberglass batts placed on the outer walls. Moisture damage had totalled the rafters over 2 dormers.

In retrospect, I had thought that the rafters that weren't over dormers were probably spared because the moisture ran off down the slope. What I hadn't considered is that perhaps this is why the floor joists had rotted at the ends.
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:56 PM   #7
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Ipi, be aware when choosing fiberglass, there are many other better choices; http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-b...ulation-90438/

Gary

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