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Old 03-15-2011, 08:45 PM   #1
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Insulation Advice


Question, I have a home built in 1980 they use insulated sheeting with a foil facing on the outside than put siding over top. Can I add 1/4 in foam over top and than add homewrap over that? My house is so cold, i run a propane heating system for 4 hrs a night at 62 degrees rest of the day set at 55 and it costs me 300 a month!!! So i am residing the house and trying to find the best way to help this. Please let me know!!

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Old 03-15-2011, 09:23 PM   #2
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Welcome to the diychatroom brikth4. If you have an attic, have you checked to see if it has been sealed or insulated?

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Old 03-15-2011, 10:13 PM   #3
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Oy, 1/4" foam is really only a small incremental difference, it probably won't hurt, but it sounds like there's a problem somewhere else and without dealing with whatever the bigger problem is, it's unlikely that it will make a difference.

Is this propane runniing off a tank? Not sure if it works the same where your service provider might do what many utiilities do, if it did you might be able to get a free energy audit from them that would tell you the best way to improve the thermal efficiency of the house. Lots of contractors that do sidding also do insulation, so they might do an energy audit, but then again in that case it can potentially be an audit done in their best interest.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:39 PM   #4
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like gma2rjc said its all about the attic because heat rises. We are not sure where you live, but this Dec. I had blown-in cellulose installed on top of existing batts bringing up the r value to r50 (new blding code in my area). The difference in energy savings and comfort was very significant and immediate. I'm not an expert but I'll see the return of that money spent by next mid winter
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:24 PM   #5
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Any other insulation in your walls? How is the air sealing everywhere? If your house is leaky, then you are pumping tons of btu's out the door with the air. Have you looked at the windows (quality of glass and air sealing)? 1/4" of insulation is as useless as boobs on a bull, btw. Is there any way you can add 2" of rigid foam?
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:22 PM   #6
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I am buying all new windows before i reside. the problems with adding the 2" foam in i would than have to pack everything out so the windows arent sunking in. I think.. i was looking at this product to put on over the existing foam which i did notice did not have the joints taped.. http://greenguard.pactiv.com/residen...d-underlayment
the fp1450. Do you think if i taped the existing joints add this and tape the new joints it would be worth the money?
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:59 PM   #7
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Welcome to the forum!

Need some background to help better;

1. Where are you located?

2. What type of new siding?

3. What type wall cavity insulation?

Are you certain of the existing foam board? I installed a lot of foil faced cardboard sheathing (1/4" thick) for shear on walls in the '80's.

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Old 03-18-2011, 12:30 AM   #8
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Suggestion: Check on buildingscience.com for window sealing details. If you are getting new windows (and I'd learn about glazing, triple pane, SHGC, U-factor, etc) it may be advisable to add the 2" of rigid foam and enjoy the warmth. "Innie" windows are a bit more energy efficient, too, as you don't get as much wind-washing.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:03 AM   #9
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Need some background to help better;

1. Where are you located? Philadelphia PA

2. What type of new siding? .046 vinly siding

3. What type wall cavity insulation? There is currently regular fiberglass batting between the 2x6 studs than 1" foam board sheathing. In attic there is that brown sawdust looking board which is falling apart. Should i replace that with osb? Yes positive about foam board I ripped off a section of siding last night..

Are you certain of the existing foam board? I installed a lot of foil faced cardboard sheathing (1/4" thick) for shear on walls in the '80's.

Gary
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper View Post
like gma2rjc said its all about the attic because heat rises.
That's only true if there are holes in the ceiling that will let the heat rise. Sealing the holes is the first step. Once the holes are sealed, then insulation matters. Insulation is designed primarily to stop radiation. Heat radiates equally in all directions. If you have R11 in the attic, and no insulation in the floor, you'll get a lot more bang for the buck by putting some insulation where there is none, than by putting more where there is some.

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