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Old 04-21-2009, 07:07 AM   #46
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Insulating to stop air infiltration in the basement.


Remember the foam creeps. If you are going around a box you might want to use the lower expansion version for windows and doors. My drywall is not cut snug to the box so I just fish the straw in beside, below and above. This can get messy. Consider latex
When I did behind the baseboards I used dap because it is latex and fished the straw in below the drywall all the way to the sole plate. I did my main floor rooms while re doing flooring and where necessary I trimmed back the drywall to allow space for the foam tube to reach the sole plate. Carpeted rooms are easy . Start in a corner, pull the carpet out then tuck back with a wide putty knife or trowel If you make any mistakes you can clean latex more easily, otherwise let it dry completely then scrape it away.
In thermo scanning my rooms, the worst areas through out the house were the corners and where inside partitions and outside walls meet. These butt joints were never insulated well or sealed properly in most older homes I have been in. It just wasn't an issue 35 yearsa ago when my housew as built and gas was cheap

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Old 04-21-2009, 10:19 AM   #47
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Insulating to stop air infiltration in the basement.


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Remember the foam creeps. If you are going around a box you might want to use the lower expansion version for windows and doors. My drywall is not cut snug to the box so I just fish the straw in beside, below and above. This can get messy. Consider latex
When I did behind the baseboards I used dap because it is latex and fished the straw in below the drywall all the way to the sole plate.
I recall using a small can of DAP when I gutted my front porch - ran a bead along the corner where porch wall meets house before I even put the drywall up - it stayed soft, didn't expand much, easy to clean up too. Didn't think of using this along baseboards - but it's on the list now - thanks for the tip, and for clarifying the electrical box thing. If you don't mind me asking, what did it cost you to get the thermal scan done?

FWIW I covered the outside facing boxes (lights and gfci outlets) in the exterior walls in my addition with the DOW product before I insulated when the walls were open and it was really easy to seal them up tight. I used the polypan plastic box covers around the metal boxes on the inside - but these poly covers are oversized and leave a fair amount of air space around the outlet box - so there's no insulation in this void. I wonder if I could / should fill these voids (between the polypan and the outlet box) with something like DAP (while they're easy to get to - drywall not on yet...) or is this overkill?
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:23 PM   #48
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Insulating to stop air infiltration in the basement.


I borrowed an LED scanner from an HVAC guy with a laser type pointer and scanned the walls, every wall and closets floor to ceiling and around windows. I was blown away by the variation, sometimes ranging from 53-68 degrees on the same wall. It was also handy locating burried heat ducts in inside walls.
I live in Canada & found a similar scanner on sale last month and went to buy one, reg $100 for $29 at Canadian Tire, a Mastercraft , their house brand... I didn't get one just a rain check , but was tired of borrowing and for $29 it will pay for itself really fast. I would have no issue paying $80 to $100 This is a fabulous tool for use finding drafts and cold spots in a 35 year old home. Still waiting to use the raincheck
As for the boxes in outer walls, I have not done all of mine. I have a large room with paneling on an outer wall which I intend to strip, insulate and seal now the warm weather is here. I think the only overkill you can have re doing your walls is wasting insulation by packing it.
As for the dow latex foam, mine stayed soft and pliable. I think I will stick to dow inside for easy cleanup, but use Great stuff or similar outside as it forms a more firm barrier which seems more moisture resistant.
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:51 AM   #49
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Insulating to stop air infiltration in the basement.


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I live in Canada & found a similar scanner on sale last month and went to buy one, reg $100 for $29 at Canadian Tire, a Mastercraft , their house brand... I didn't get one just a rain check
also in Canada - I've noticed that a lot of the sale items at Canadian Tire go around in cycles - so this one might pop up again - I'll have to keep an eye out - thanks again for all the info
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:44 PM   #50
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Insulating to stop air infiltration in the basement.


KKentert,
Welcome drop by the site intro forum and tell us more about yourself.
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:47 AM   #51
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Insulating to stop air infiltration in the basement.


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And unless you house is REALLY old and the windows are beyond belief terrible...DON'T REPLACE YOUR WINDOWS! It's a scam. replacing windows it the least cost effective thing you can do in most cases...even though many people (mostly window salesmen) will tell you it's the best thing.
This is completey false, you can't make such a broad claim
My house had fairly decent windows
The basement had 3 single PAIN windows (actually 5 in all) that I replaced. It made a huge difference in basement Temp. I also replaced the windows on the 1st floor. They were double pane, replacement windows. But they failed to insulate the pockets where the sash weights were located. As a result I had 6 uninuslated pockets about 12" wide in addition to 3" on either side of every window. Replacing the windows made a huge difference in heat & in reducing noise from outside

I'd say it was one of the best things I did to save on heating
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Old 06-11-2009, 09:30 AM   #52
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Insulating to stop air infiltration in the basement.


My windows in the house were vinyl, LOWE & not that old
Poor installation was at fault
I used to use 3 tanks of oil, that dropped to just over 1 tank of oil
I've saved the cost of the new windows in the past 4 years

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