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Old 01-01-2010, 09:43 AM   #31
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The best thing to do is not touch it. The fibres that are released when you move it are what does the most harm and especially if you breathe them in. And there's no way to tell if it has done any harm to you now except to say that's between you and your doctor.

But we can't change the past - but can affect the future. Grab the Yellow Pages and look up Asbestos and Mould Mitigation Services somewhere in there or phone your city hall. Asbestos problems go beyond your city, your province and even our country boundaries so it's a big problem that ought to be tended to. But someone at city hall should be familiar with what services are offered in your community, if not talk to the mayor about why not.

We are in the restoration business so I have an idea of the costs to remove asbestos; every case will be different so I can't speak to specifics but the whole area has to be sealed off, full protective gear provided for the works, the material has to be properly disposed of and air samples have to be taken. 3-man crew for about a day...washing, cleaning, hauling away - everything is required. Would your house insurance pay for it? don't know that either, some do.

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Old 01-01-2010, 10:12 AM   #32
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I would agree. Recommendations are to leave it alone. It presents no danger unless it is so deteriorated that the fibers are falling off of it.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:17 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccarlisle View Post
The best thing to do is not touch it. The fibres that are released when you move it are what does the most harm and especially if you breathe them in. And there's no way to tell if it has done any harm to you now except to say that's between you and your doctor.

But we can't change the past - but can affect the future. Grab the Yellow Pages and look up Asbestos and Mould Mitigation Services somewhere in there or phone your city hall. Asbestos problems go beyond your city, your province and even our country boundaries so it's a big problem that ought to be tended to. But someone at city hall should be familiar with what services are offered in your community, if not talk to the mayor about why not.

We are in the restoration business so I have an idea of the costs to remove asbestos; every case will be different so I can't speak to specifics but the whole area has to be sealed off, full protective gear provided for the works, the material has to be properly disposed of and air samples have to be taken. 3-man crew for about a day...washing, cleaning, hauling away - everything is required. Would your house insurance pay for it? don't know that either, some do.
I can't see my insurance paying for it, they aren't the best. Been looking for a new insurance company.
Its just in that one spot. going up in the wall. to second floor, my bedroom. I now that alot of my duct work is old and rusty, some places it has holes. If there's holes in that long the way its possible it could be blowing that into my room.
I think I removed some of that stuff a few years back like 4 or 5. I thought it was cloth, so if I did I wouldn't have had any kind of mask on. I've actually been off work for a few years because I've not been feeling well and they can't figure out what is wrong with me. They kind find problems but haven't been able to figure out the reason. So guess I will talk to my doctor. I did ask them if it could do with my reno work as I have a few old places and tend to do alot of demo. She didn't think so. Guess its a lesson to me, always be careful.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:26 AM   #34
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I would agree. Recommendations are to leave it alone. It presents no danger unless it is so deteriorated that the fibers are falling off of it.
Is it recommended to encase the whole thing in new wrap ?

I know in one old basement this was the best method as leaving it alone meant that it would be hit eventually just by moving stuff around in the basement
Pipes were fairly low
I even built a soffit to enclose one set of pipes
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:30 PM   #35
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Don't know how correct the info is on this site but it seems reasonable:
http://www.maacenter.org/abatement/diyabatement.php
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:33 PM   #36
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It may be possible that air currents blow asbestos fibres around the rooms, especially if it 'flaps' - but we can't tell that for sure -and yes, it may have something to do with your not feeling well - although many others things might also be as guilty in older homes. Sick-building syndrome and all that, mould, dust etc all might contribute. It's been known to happen.

And I'm not well placed to recommend any half-measures like encapsulation, or wrapping of asbestos etc when it comes to peoples health. I haven't time to do such things half-way. Remove it, is all I can recommend. Now your own proximity to it may affect the timetable of that, but in the long run, it'll have to go.

Just as some pople can live with large amounts of mould in their homes, most of us already do but then again some can't. So, if there are any indications of ill-health and mould s and asbestos are in the picture, how can you ever make a rational diagnosis without removing them?

It's like a cat chasing it's tail.


As for the laminate flooring someone installed, all that is needed is quarter-round and that'll hide those gaps. That space is needed for expansion/contraction.

But back to the foam...if your house scored a 'zero', it means that there are leaks to the outside, e.g. near the rim joist you mentioned, not necessarily where the toilet chase goes through the upstairs floor and meets the soil stack. Sure, there's a gap but filling that wouldn't affect your score. The gap where the oil pipes come into the house is more what I am thinking about....
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Last edited by ccarlisle; 01-01-2010 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 01-02-2010, 12:01 AM   #37
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Scored a 0 on a blow test. As an experienced Energy Auditor who has done well over a thousand tests, I have never ever, ever heard of any such thing. Must be a scoring system that is within that company or area.

Homes are scored (at least in the US) by a HERS (Home Energy Rating System) index. On that scale, a home built to code (the "reference" home) scores a 100 and a home that uses zero net purchased energy scores a 0 (that would be the best). Leakier older homes can score up to 500 or so (very, very inefficient). Air sealing is a good thing to do as long as it's approached in a methodical way with knowledge behind it.

I can only assume that his/her scoring system must be something different.
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Old 01-02-2010, 07:20 AM   #38
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I've seen fiberglass wrap for pipes too, so you might not have asbestos. If it's in an unfinished space that you don't use, that you don't circulate air from, then it doesn't seem like it could be too big of a potential problem. If you're worried, get a certified industrial hygenist (yellow pages) to inspect it. Probably cost $100, but you'll know for sure.

Regarding the Great Stuff foam, if you spill it on a hard surface, you can scape it off. If you get it in your clothes, it's permanent. If you get it on your hands it will be there for a week or two. You can clean it off of things like clothing with mineral spirits if you get it before it cures.

Since you have an unfinished space to play in, I'd suggest just buying a can for $5 and see if you're happy with the results and the process. Seal around those pipes. If you don't like how it works, nothing lost.
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Old 01-02-2010, 07:43 AM   #39
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I believe Great Stuff is what you want to use. It will not crack a pipe as one poster stated. It can and will push the frame of a door or window if you overfill the cavity. I have used great stuff many many times on doors and windows successfully. Practice where you can see the foam expand, keeping in mind you can add more the following day. Try to make as small a bead as you can. You will get the hang of it quickly but it takes a day or two to see the results.

As for clean up forget the mineral spirits and use acetone. Buy at least a quart at the hardware store. It will clean up you hands and anything else that will tolerate the acetone. Acetone is the main ingredient in nail polish remover, you will recognize the odor.

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Old 01-03-2010, 01:17 AM   #40
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The floor looks good. Sounds like you've got it under control and just like me have a few "need to finish" projects. Definitely insulate before the final trim though...but you know that.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:52 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Energyrater View Post
Scored a 0 on a blow test. As an experienced Energy Auditor who has done well over a thousand tests, I have never ever, ever heard of any such thing. Must be a scoring system that is within that company or area.

Homes are scored (at least in the US) by a HERS (Home Energy Rating System) index. On that scale, a home built to code (the "reference" home) scores a 100 and a home that uses zero net purchased energy scores a 0 (that would be the best). Leakier older homes can score up to 500 or so (very, very inefficient). Air sealing is a good thing to do as long as it's approached in a methodical way with knowledge behind it.

I can only assume that his/her scoring system must be something different.
I'm attaching the top copy of the energy efficiency Evaluation Report. Just so you can see what it says, it may help figure out if its different than you evaluations. ( I thought maybe to that you may think I was over dramatizing it which I know people do sometimes. ) I just covered my address and the file number just for privacy reasons. The energy evaluator also said like you, he had never seen a score of 0 before.

I Spent new years caulking and spray foaming the bottom unit on the other side of the house. It took almost 10 tubes of caulking. But I did every seam, around every window and door frame, around all floor trims top and bottom of trims even wall corners where the previous owner had remove a door and put panel. You may think its over kill but there is a huge difference. I actually called in the furnace people because I thought there was a problem with there furnace because I couldn't hear it working for like 3 days after I did the caulking. I had the furnace people come in and of course as were walking down to the basement we could hear it click on. (Obviously it had been running but it was never going when I would check ) Usually that furnaces runs twice as long as mine so it did make a difference, wish I had done this sooner. I new it would help but never believed it would help as much as it did. I'm going to track the oil use to see how long it will last now that i have done that. I had orderd oil on Dec 19th and it was getting low by the 29 so that's what got my butt in gear.
I also put some pics of the unit that i was doing the caulking and sprayfoam in. You'll see one of the pics is a gap between where the back door meets the kitchen floor. I took the can of spray foam to fill that spot.
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:31 AM   #42
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Gosh, I had to read that report twice to justify a "0" rating...what does the "56" mean then?
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:11 AM   #43
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Gosh, I had to read that report twice to justify a "0" rating...what does the "56" mean then?
56 is their prediction of what the building will score after all the work is done.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:44 AM   #44
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Oh, I see...thanks for that, pyper.

Hmm, still seems odd to me. Is this like your HERS scores?
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Old 01-07-2010, 10:32 AM   #45
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The 56 is what my house will go up to if I do all the upgrades

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