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Old 12-24-2012, 08:32 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Develin View Post
If it's really just the floors that get cold and there isn't any damp creeping in... I'd be more inclined to put down some rugs... Saves effort and money. If the problem is damp I'd probably just rip everything and start all over again. The suggestions above about putting in new plastic soffits is pretty stellar advice... but that's just my opinion, there are plenty of viable options.

As long as there's no damp and ambient temperature is all right I don't think it's that big of a problem.

really the exterior wall envelope and the outer portion of the floor below the exterior wall needs to be insulated only, there should be no need to insulate soffits because they are not lived in. getting access to the spots that need the insulation, or insulation upgrades is most likely the biggest issue...


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Old 12-24-2012, 12:44 PM   #17
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So there is no insulation under that 2 foot "soffit overhang"? If not, then I think you should spray foam that at the same time that you have the garage ceiling done.
One more thing to check is that the entire wall of the bedroom is insulated -- don't assume anything.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:24 PM   #18
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For your location, -4" of closed-cell SPF is required in the floors;

To stop air from getting to the front wall under the shed roof, you could go with an unvented design though it requires R-15 SPF against the roof sheathing to prevent condensation; Otherwise it would be a bear to air seal. Check with local AHJ, you may need to cover it against ignition in the attic, or SPF on the front wall sheathing in the attic space. Maybe not, if completely sealed from exterior.

Personally, I would add rigid foamboard under the joists in the garage and at both soffits to stop the thermal bridging at joists and exterior ground radiation, fig.7;

1/2" would work at 33 cent per square foot, cover with 5/8" drywall, type-X per code for a garage with living space above;|1&facetInfo=

No plastic vapor barrier required in Zone 4--- "Class I or II vapor retarders are required on the interior side of frame walls in Zones 5, 6, 7, 8 and Marine 4. " From; Always check locally.



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