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Old 02-26-2010, 11:33 AM   #1
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Insulating furnace room


I have a room that holds the furnance and water heater and during cold days cold air pours through the heaters hood vent and makes the room VERY cold which then cools the rooms around it also... I wanted to put in R-13 fiberglass batts around the room (right now its exposed studs)... I wanted this to also help dampen the sound created by the heater and furnance since they are loud... all I can find though is faced R-13 batts and rolls... can I put this into the cavity as long as the kraft paper faces the warm sides? what if I wanted to drywall over it someday? would the paper be a problem then? it would still be an unconditioned room (minus heat leakage form the furance) this room is about 9 ft long and 6 ft wide

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Old 02-26-2010, 12:45 PM   #2
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Insulating furnace room


It seems locally that Home Depot only has faced fiberglass insulation while Lowe's has both. However, the unfaced cost more because it's still faced with a non-vapor barrier to keep insulation off yourself.

Now I can't speak to whether you should or should not include a vapor barrier, but if you really do want unfaced insulation, have you looked into blow-in insulation? I know it's mainly used for blowing into attics, but it can be blown into walls as well.

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Old 02-26-2010, 01:30 PM   #3
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I just came back from HD & they have faced & unfaced
Unfaced does NOT require any "non-vapor barrier" to keep it "off you"
That covering (was called miraflex ?) is still available & is actually LESS then the normal unfaced
In addition the unfaced is LESS then the faced insulation
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Old 02-26-2010, 02:15 PM   #4
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Insulating furnace room


I can only find faced here at my lowes for R-13, anything above R-13 though it has both... but is there any problem with having the vapor barrier there if I am going to someday drywall over this maybe? I want to get all my unconditioned spaces insulated so the cold isn't transfering as much as it is now...

faced would be good in a way because right now I could staple the lips of it up to help hold it in place while there is no wall over it... with the faced side facing the warm rooms of course
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Old 02-26-2010, 02:16 PM   #5
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Insulating furnace room


At Lowe's, their cheapest fiberglass insulation is the Johns Manville kraft faced R-13 for $8.48 for a 40sqft roll. Their unfaced version is the Johns Manville "ComfortTherm" for $12.43 for the same size roll. In this case, the "comfort" comes from the fact they put a perforated facing around the fiberglass so that you don't have to come in contact with the fiberglass while installing it.

[Edit]
And now I do recall seeing unfaced insulation at Home Depot. But it was only available in the thicker sizes. But in the R-13 thickness, I could only find the faced stuff.

Last edited by HooKooDooKu; 02-26-2010 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 02-26-2010, 02:27 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by BlueBSH View Post
I can only find faced here at my lowes for R-13, anything above R-13 though it has both... but is there any problem with having the vapor barrier there if I am going to someday drywall over this maybe? I want to get all my unconditioned spaces insulated so the cold isn't transfering as much as it is now...

faced would be good in a way because right now I could staple the lips of it up to help hold it in place while there is no wall over it... with the faced side facing the warm rooms of course
Faced is easier to staple up IMO
If both room are warm doesn't matter which side the facing is on
If one room is kept warmer have it face the warmer side
What HD & Lowes carries depends upon your location & how much business the store does
Luckily we also have a Pro insulation shop/warehouse nearby - they carry everything
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:44 PM   #7
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Insulating furnace room


Please don't use faced insulation without drywall covering it against fire in the furnace room!!

The insulation is the least of your worries. You may have a single wall flue pipe which cannot pass through walls you intend to drywall…… You also may need combustion air supply, read some local requirements: http://www.mybuildingpermit.com/Insp...0checklist.pdf

CHECK with your LOCAL Building Department, don’t be a fire statistic.

Your LOCAL Lowes or H.D. doesn’t carry the same selection as one in the neighboring City; don’t you have to enter your zip code at the internet sites? This is a clue……


Be safe, Gary
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:21 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Please don't use faced insulation without drywall covering it against fire in the furnace room!!

The insulation is the least of your worries. You may have a single wall flue pipe which cannot pass through walls you intend to drywall…… You also may need combustion air supply, read some local requirements: http://www.mybuildingpermit.com/Insp...0checklist.pdf

CHECK with your LOCAL Building Department, don’t be a fire statistic.

Your LOCAL Lowes or H.D. doesn’t carry the same selection as one in the neighboring City; don’t you have to enter your zip code at the internet sites? This is a clue……


Be safe, Gary
Here's what I got so far:

* Insulation will have facing against the drywall, unfaced part facing towards the furnance room

* This is a condensing furnance, all combustion air comes in from outside via PCV pipes, no combusion air comes from inside the room

* Not really sure what a single wall flue is, but we don't have a flue in the traditional sense that goes vertical, all these go horizontal to the rim joist and out the wall outside and are vented by motorized blowers to move the air horizontally

so going by that, I think have most of the possible problems covered as long as I maintain clearances given for the vent pipes and furnace
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Old 02-27-2010, 04:45 AM   #9
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In order to do it the right way, you would need to create a room inside of a room. Essentially a "Air Lock", along with Negative pressure on the outside airspace.
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:58 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
In order to do it the right way, you would need to create a room inside of a room. Essentially a "Air Lock", along with Negative pressure on the outside airspace.

Why would you want to do that? I've never seen something like that done around here
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Old 02-27-2010, 02:18 PM   #11
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I was being snarky about the other person asking how to keep the cold air in just that room. Of course it is not done, unless in an application to keep fires from spreading into habitable spaces from boiler & furnace rooms. And only in Commercial applications would you see this done.
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Old 02-27-2010, 03:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
I was being snarky about the other person asking how to keep the cold air in just that room. Of course it is not done, unless in an application to keep fires from spreading into habitable spaces from boiler & furnace rooms. And only in Commercial applications would you see this done.
Ohh.. *LOL* sarcasim is hard to detect on the net
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Old 02-27-2010, 11:16 PM   #13
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Insulating furnace room


I'd take a look at roxul comfortbatt's http://www.roxul.com/residential/pro...tbatt%E2%84%A2

It's more expensive then the pink stuff, but has higher insulation, is easier to work with and claims to have excellent sound absorption. I had to order mine from 84 lumber, but it arrived in a couple of days. It's a lot heavier then the pink stuff, one bag probably weighed more then three of the others. So far I'm happy with it.

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