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dj_backq 10-07-2010 10:42 AM

Installing washer and dryer in basement in former tub enclosure.
I'm planning to move my washer and dryer in the basement to give us more space in the main floor bathroom.

I already have a great space for them, which was originally built for a bath enclosure. My issue is with the drain. The drain line was installed for a bath, meaning that it comes out the floor at 16" from the back wall and 6" from the side wall. When I put my washer in that space, it will come out directly under it. I don't want to have to break up concrete in order to bring the drain line into the back wall.

I thought about building a pedestal to raise the washer and dryer 8 inches from the floor. This would allow me to run my drain pipe on the floor and then into a the back wall. Inside the back wall, I can easily put in a p-trap, riser and can tie into a near by vent.

I'm worried about the vibrations coming from the frontload washer. My first thought was to build a pedestal framed out of 2x4 and 3/4" plywood and screw all of it to the floor and walls. My GF also wanted my to tile the top of the pedestal to match the floors, which could help with vibration also.

Do any of you see any problems with this? Will fixing the pedestal to the walls transfer vibration to the rest of the house or will it solidify the pedestal enough to eliminate most of these vibrations??

Or better yet, if you have any other ideas they would be well received!



Pistol Pete 10-07-2010 01:14 PM

I would consider building the pedestal out of concrete blocks. One row for the front, and one row in back to support the weight of the machines, then top with plywood to keep junk (and errant socks) out.

Also, if the drain is for a bathtub, it might well be properly trapped and vented already.

Ron6519 10-07-2010 06:16 PM

I don't understand, "under my it". Why spend the time posting a question without looking over the post before you hit the, "submit" button?
Try posting a picture.

cumak 10-07-2010 07:06 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I had to build a pedestal for my front-load washer about a year ago, but for a different reason. We had our septic system replaced, and with new septic regulations in MA our entire system had to be raised about 3'. The new sewer pipe exiting the house was higher than the washer was rated to pump, so I built a 2' pedestal. As an added bonus, the wife loves not having to bend over to load/unload, and can also slide laundry baskets under it.

I used 6 4x4s for the posts, and a 2x4 frame around the top. I fastened it all together using 3" lag screws and washers. I added a few more 2x4 cross pieces for extra support, and topped it with 3/4" plywood. Finally, I added some 1x4 pieces around the bottoms of the 4x4 posts to help keep everything square. It has been rock solid for a year, even when the washer load is unbalanced.

The only thing I would do differently is use galvanized fasteners. The 4x4 posts are PT, and I think the stainless fasteners I used will eventually corrode. I check it every so often, and will replace fasteners if/when I need to.

baum 10-08-2010 06:51 AM

No need to post in 2 different areas of the forum. Peopl ewill respond to 1.

dj_backq 10-08-2010 08:20 AM

I'll post some pictures tonight. Sorry about double thread... I didn't know in which room to post it and found out after that I can't delete the other thread!

dj_backq 10-08-2010 12:17 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here are the photos of that bath enclosure and drain.

A pedestal could easiliy be built and tied onto that framing but I'm worried about vibration. It's the only option I can think off in order to get the drain line all the way to te wall.

Attachment 25496

Attachment 25497

dj_backq 10-12-2010 05:54 PM

I just figured this out as an alternative solution.

Here's what's on top of my concrete floor.

- Vapor barrier
- 3/4" strapping
- 3/4" plywood
- 1/2" plywood (which I just added to make the floor stronger for tiling).

Now that makes me a subfloor height of 2" overall. That means that I could cut through the subfloor and run the pipe as close to the concrete as possible. Now taking into consideration the 1/4" slope per foot, that my tile will be 1/4" and that the appliances adjustable legs are at least 1/4" high... I should be okay.

Plus I think I will buy a big rubber matt to put under the appliances to absorb the vibrations.

Any comments anyone? This might turn out better then the pedestal. I was worried the built-in pedestal would transfer to much vibrations to the first floor.

dj_backq 11-02-2010 08:56 PM

Can anyone take a look at this and give me their ideas?

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