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allworld 08-05-2006 10:13 PM

Installing walk up basement
 
I am installing a door in our basement to make it a walkup. I am concerned with having the door cut out where there is a window currently and if a new header will be needed, I will be cutting about 2-3" on each side of the window down. I am also worried about the footer being frost protected. I live in Cincinnati, OH where the forst line is 30". I plan to use 2" foam insulation against the footer and under the slab at the doorway. Please give me any suggestions. Here is a photo album of the project http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ed_sand/album?.dir=/9cfare2

base2roof 08-08-2006 09:51 AM

I'm on the same page
 
Hello ALLWORLD
I HAVE EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM HERE IN COLUMBUS.
I WILL APPRETIATE IF SOMEBODY CAN GIVE US AN ANSWER ABOUT THIS.
TKS TO ALL

Base2roof

AtlanticWBConst. 08-08-2006 05:59 PM

Great Pictures.
That always helps ALOT!

What I would suggest is:

a.) You may be planning on installing a sealed bulkhead over everything, which is what I would definitily suggest. Otherwise, if left open, without a REALLY GOOD drainage system in at the Bottom area of the step down, it will flood and go right into the basement after the door is installed.

b.) YES, You will need a header above that door.

c.) What you can do: If you have the door height to spare, build a wood header using P.T. 2x6's and install Pressure treated jacks and kings on each side. Use sill foam between the studs and the concrete walls. Allow space when cutting out the concrete for the jacks and kings.

d.) If there is no ‘head’ space to spare (which is probably the case): Call around to iron/steel work companies. What you are looking for is a piece of angle iron that is called a 'lintel'. You can use this the same as a header and support it with Pressure treated jacks. Measure your door opening size (R.O.) and add for the jacks. Then you can have them cut it to size. You will want 2 of them - one for each side of the wall. if you get non galvanized ones, sand them down and spray a coat of primer over them. You might want to double jack each side, depending on the size of the door you’re going to install. Use a powder actuated fastener.

e.) When you do the concrete cutting, go straight up to the bottom wall plates of the house…(What I mean is -you will want to remove that concrete above the window too)

F.) I suggest that, to play it safe, you set up a temp. wall near the cutting area to temporarily support the 1st floor joists near the opening.



cincyinfomed 11-21-2007 05:20 PM

Another similar project
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by allworld (Post 15589)
I am installing a door in our basement to make it a walkup. I am concerned with having the door cut out where there is a window currently and if a new header will be needed, I will be cutting about 2-3" on each side of the window down. I am also worried about the footer being frost protected. I live in Cincinnati, OH where the forst line is 30". I plan to use 2" foam insulation against the footer and under the slab at the doorway. Please give me any suggestions. Here is a photo album of the project http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ed_sand/album?.dir=/9cfare2

I'm in Cincy and considering doing a similar project as we remodel a basement that's currently below grade. We've got a set of windows that are the logical place to put in a door, so support seems to be in place to allow for a door without cutting into poured foundation on either side. The main issue is we'll likely need to extend footer down another 30 inches to make the new footing below the new frostline once we excavate the 3+ feet around the area of the new door. I'm intrigued by the insulation idea instead as it seems less invasive an approach (compared to excavating under the current footing along the area we're planning to place the new landing/patio and pouring a new deeper footing to at least 30 inches).

I'm interested in your ultimate solutions to this "forced-walk-up" issue and any advice about reducing the risks of doing what we're planning to support the foundation.

Thanks!

Chris Johnson 11-21-2007 07:57 PM

Check your local codes. The existing footing and new footing for the surrounding walls must be below frost level (you said 30" in your area) I used to live in Northern Ontario and we were allowed to install 4" Styrofoam on top of the footing on the exposed side to prevent frost from driving down and lifting and damaging the foundation. We called it a shallow footing detail, a copy of the detail can be obtained from an engineer. One thing I highly recommend is to make sure you install a drain in the slab of the walkout, as well if possible keep the door threshold at least 6" above the exterior slab, makes it nice in the winter not having snow come in and be piled up on the front of the door.

cincyinfomed 11-21-2007 11:32 PM

Thanks, Chris. So, just to be clear, was the foam used instead of or in addition to extending the footing to the otherwise required/recommended depth?

Good advice about the threshold, too.

Chris Johnson 11-21-2007 11:59 PM

We used the foam in lui of the depth requirement


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