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Old 07-24-2012, 01:50 PM   #1
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installing Tongue and grove pine on walls


Hello:

I am installing 1x6 tongue and grove knotty pine horizontally on the unfinished walls of my cottage. I have yet to install a finished floor (that is next year's project) and am seeking advice on the size of the gap I should leave between the pine and the plywood floor. Do I need to account for the thickness of the flooring I will eventually install?

Thanks for any advice.

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Old 07-24-2012, 08:51 PM   #2
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installing Tongue and grove pine on walls


leave a gap in case floor has imperfections then after floor is installed put base trim up to cover space

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Old 07-24-2012, 09:51 PM   #3
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installing Tongue and grove pine on walls


i'd leave 1/2-3/4" the flooring doesnt need to go under the pine just close enough to be covered with baseboard. grab a piece of wood or plywood to sit each piece on the height you want it off the floor so your not fighting it.
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:51 AM   #4
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installing Tongue and grove pine on walls


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Originally Posted by princelake View Post
i'd leave 1/2-3/4" the flooring doesnt need to go under the pine just close enough to be covered with baseboard. grab a piece of wood or plywood to sit each piece on the height you want it off the floor so your not fighting it.
That’s assuming the floor is perfectly flat amongst other things.

I’d pull a couple of string lines across the entire wall where their unobstructed. Likely one just under any windows and another above.

Then checking the reveals of those lines to the floor, ceiling, windows etc. Once satisfied with the strings use them as a reference point going up the wall.

This is especially helpful going in-between windows and such to make sure everything is in line and on layout before notching over the top.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:49 AM   #5
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installing Tongue and grove pine on walls


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Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
That’s assuming the floor is perfectly flat amongst other things.

I’d pull a couple of string lines across the entire wall where their unobstructed. Likely one just under any windows and another above.

Then checking the reveals of those lines to the floor, ceiling, windows etc. Once satisfied with the strings use them as a reference point going up the wall.

This is especially helpful going in-between windows and such to make sure everything is in line and on layout before notching over the top.
The above is good advice. The only thing I could add is what we call the "Rips". Taking the above into consideration, before you have the string-lines established, check to see what the top "Rip" or board width [ in height ] will be.
You don't want to end up with a tiny piece at the top unless you are going to add a trim piece to cover a small gap.

When anyone enters a room and admiring your work, subconsciously the eye goes to the horizontal lines of the room at eye height and then above.
Don't worry so much about how the boards look at the floor. as this is the last place the eye will look. It's Kinda like laying tile. You have to take all things into consideration with layout to make it look good.
Usually horizontal T&G boards are installed tongue up and groove down.

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